One of my rear wheel bearings could do with replacing, whats the best way to do this? never done it before so aint got a clue how to remove them/re-install new ones.

only one needs doing but ive bought 2 as i figured its best doing them both at once.

any info/tips much appreciated!

Tom

The last time i changed them, i just got a thin screwdriver and poked them out through the spindle hole on the opposite side. Then greased the new ones up and put them in.

Easy but it may be different on other types of wheels.

W

Edited July 22, 200818 yr by Williamd

makes sense, so just knock them out from the other end then? no worries about damaging them because they arent going back in.

Tom

Don't worry about damaging them but try to knock them out evenly. Tap the new ones in with a hammer but use the old one in between to act as a buffer...

Hi tombo,

It is always a good idea to heat up the wheel hub with just boiling water, immediately prior to knocking out the wheel bearings. On later model bikes, the hubs are keenly machined to minimal dimensions, it is possible to crack the hub when trying to remove the bearings while cold, the boiling water expands the aluminium more than the steel bearings and allows safe removal of the bearings. Fit new bearings with dust seals. Before fitting, carefully prise off the seals from one side of each bearing, and re-pack the bearing with water proof grease, Mobil HP or better, then fit the seals back in. Bearings are supplied with minimal grease from the factory.

Bye, PeterB.

Tombo,

If you would like a step by step owners manual type way to proceed then have a look at my blog and scrol down to the Feb archives and you will find an article "How to, Wheel Bearings" with lots of pictures and another tricky job made easy.

Tony

Agree with other comments. I use a metal rod approx 10 mm x 300mm, push through from one side and lever the central spacer gently untill you can start gently tapping the bearing out. Go round & round so the bearing stays square to the hub. When replacing with new I use a brass drift, this will do less damage if you do hit the hub. When replacing the bearing try only to drift it in around the outside ie the surface that fits into the hub. (remember to replace the central spacer having cleaned it and covered in a coat of grease)

When replacing with new I use a brass drift, this will do less damage if you do hit the hub. When replacing the bearing try only to drift it in around the outside ie the surface that fits into the hub. (remember to replace the central spacer having cleaned it and covered in a coat of grease)

You also have a built-in tool to start the bearing straight into the hub. Use the axle as a guide by putting it through the hub with the bearings on each side and lightly tap around the bearings to start them in, the axle will keep them square to the hub and you can, in a pinch, use a block of wood on the axle nut to act as a driver.

Jon

I have this nice little tool that goes in, expands, then pops out the bearing with a slide hammer. It is really made for extracting pilot bearings from crankshafts when doing clutch jobs on cars. Same principal.

As things go and I lube my bearings properly, never needed it on the bike! Oh well! Like Jon, usually I have to pull out the tools for others bikes, so it is there at work on standby, cause you will never have when you need it, and if you do, you won't!

Like Cope said there is a real neat kit that will work on 5 or 6 differant size bearings cost around $60. I use a small tourch and carefully heat up around the hub, use the bearing tool and they come out real easy. Takes about 5 minutes to have both bearings out and back in. Right tool for the job saves time.

You also have a built-in tool to start the bearing straight into the hub. Use the axle as a guide by putting it through the hub with the bearings on each side and lightly tap around the bearings to start them in, the axle will keep them square to the hub and you can, in a pinch, use a block of wood on the axle nut to act as a driver.

Jon

If you use this method only change one bearing at a time, (to keep the axle square) and never be tempted to hit the axle as this put the load through the centre / bearing, rather than

the outside of the bearing.

If you use this method only change one bearing at a time, (to keep the axle square) and never be tempted to hit the axle as this put the load through the centre / bearing, rather than

the outside of the bearing.

True, I probably should have expounded on my tip to add, that the old bearing should be beneath the axle nut so you can tap on the outside of the old bearing to drive in the new one and the axle is just used for alignment.

Thanks.

Jon

sorted =] thanks alot everyone!!

Tom