Any help please, I have an Evo 290 2009 and has a weight fitted to the mag which was on when i purchased the bike. I love the bike but when riding slow tight stuff i find it snatchy and easy to push the front wheel away. Gearing is 10/41 so previous owner dropped front by 1 already. How can i smooth it out when on the slow tight stuff? drop to a 9 front?? could i ride off the clutch more then? slow action throttle i dont think would help?and i love the power anyway. Would the clutch mod help and maybe remove a couple of springs? Please help before i move over to the dark side (gasgas)
cheers kay
All comes down to throttle and clutch control, so the slow throttle would most likely help you out, as would the clutch mod pinned to the top of the Beta section. Feel free to jump to the "dark side" if you like, but you will find that the same throttle and clutch skills apply to all brands.
Agree 100% for sure. Advised to use it by a long time restorer/painter of vintage tanks (metal and fiberglass). Used it on my Cota 247, and it worked wonderfully.
Just went through the disk! Doesn't work on a mac so had to wait until i could use the other-halfs microsoft!
Thanks for the info, just worked out the ratio of 1.5% for synthetic oil (I'm using the Putoline TT trial synthetic oil) to 75ml but i guess the little extra would be good for it when running in.
Thanks again
Hugh
The disk doesn't seem to work under Windows (7 at least) either. Rather than let it try and execute, just browse it, and you will see several PDF files. Just copy the version (language) you prefer off to your hard drive. Then you can just open it as a pdf, as needed.
Based upon factory recommendations, you would need 66.6 ml of full synthetic to 5 liters of fuel.
Has anyone tried one of these evaporative cooling vests (MOTOBOSS or Bilt Cooling Vests from Cycle Gear) during a trial?
Do they work as advertised?
So much of this stuff depends upon evaporative cooling. In high humidity Houston Texas, none of this stuff ever seems to work. Imagine success depends a whole lot upon the climate you are using it in.
That said a friend of mine has had both the 125 and 175 version of the earlier bike, and he was surprised how much better the 143cc version was (power wise) than the 125 - he said it seriously impressed him and other riders just how capable it was
Jx
Agreed. Mine was the 143cc version, and totally blew me away regarding what it was able to do. I think it was one of those great lessons on learning how to "ride" versus getting lazy by depending on an overpower bike to make up for your lack of planning. By no means saying that the bike in on par with my 2011 Beta, but it was very capable, enjoyable bike. Perfect for a more casual rider.
my 2005 txt250 pro was being ridden hard around my field when i noticed a slight power drop, very similar to when its running out of fuel. so i switched it to reserve tank which made no difference.
looked over my shoulder and could see lots of white smoke coming from the exhaust.
i slowly rode it back to my house when the power got less and less until it stalled and died.
any suggestions what caused this, what the problem is, and how i get it running again?
thanks
As a general rule... Blue Smoke = Oil and White Smoke = Water/Coolant.
Whether a seal, water pump, etc. is sounds as if your coolant is leaking into the combustion cycle. A little at first, but then worse until it stalled, and died. Time to play investigator. For my money, I would start at the water pump.
Anti-freeze for cars with an inhibitor (should say on bottle) mixed 50:50 with distilled water
Be careful on that one. Many car coolants contain silicate, as part of their anti-corrosive feature. That silicate can act as an abrasive in motorcycle water pumps.
I have been using the Hondaline HP Coolant (pre-mixed, ready to go.), for years, in a variety of bike brands, including Beta, for the past 4 years. Knock on wood, no problems so far.
i have a 2010 beta 290 evo that i have had for about a month and when i ride the bike it sound like the engine is pinkin a bit what grade petrol are you to use. as i use standard unleaded or would i need to use super unleaded as i have read before on the sherco topics that it does make a difference to the pinkin also does any body know what grage of gear box oil i should use
Only use super unleaded, in mine. Recalling back to my Montesa 315 days, where mixing 50:50 super to 108 racing fuel was critical. After that, I have never considered anything less than super unleaded, for all my trials bikes. Just felt happy I didn't have to go through finding race fuel.
Gearbox wise, I use Castrol MTX, which is 80W, and it works excellent. Really progressive clutch engagement, no drag, etc.
Beta rev 4t suddenly lost power and sputtered at higher rpm's. It starts, idles and revs a little with no problem. I took out the carb and cleaned the jets with little change. I noticed a large fitting on the carb with no hose or cap attached (pictured below).
Mine had a rubber cap that went over that tube. It split, and was about to come off, when I saw it. Searched the nut and bolt aisle, at the hardware store, and found a stretchy plastic (not rubber)replacement, that worked fine.
If you pull the big black plastic cap off, you can see where the tube would vent into the diaphragm area, when open. As I recall, it was blocked off, and the cap just protected it. Best I could figure, this tube would be used for a multi-carb setup, to interconnect them.
Clutch: The action of the clutch (whether cable or hydraulic) in standard form is extremely fierce and very trials un-friendly. If you remove the vertical rod onto which the clutch actuating arm mounts, you will find a cam machined into the bottom end. The cam in turn operates against the horizontal rod which pushes against (and hence operates) the clutch. Gently softening the radius of the cam on it
You can take empty cans and they aren't bothered if they come back with fuel in, but you can't take fuel over in cans. If they find it you'll have to dispose of it.
Why do they care? Just trying to force local sales?
Update : been out for 3 hours tonight bike revs out perfectly lots of big hill climbs no issues at all seems to have more mid range and top end power and just seems to generally run better so thanks again Ralphy and would suggest to anyone else to alter the needle valve as per Ralphy's instructions :-)
I thought I had posted this in every "4T Carb Issues" thread, but I guess I missed this one.
These are the starting points for GREAT performance:
Pilot jet: 22.5
Main jet: 130 to 135
Air screw: 2 3/8 turns out
Needle clip: 2nd slot down from the top (thick washer below clip and thin washer above)
Once done to my Beta 4T, the difference was literally night and day.
Remind me NOT to buy a second hand bike from any of these guy's !
Young guys have a couple of things going for them, as they develop their skills.
1) Little to no regard for self protection. (Have not realized they are mortal yet)
2) Little to no regard for protecting the bike. (Dad or sponsor pay for repairs)
Us old farts think a lot about the cost to repair our bike, our body, and time lost at work while in the hospital, or at home mending. Has a lot to do with the size and type of obstacles attempted.
So the section is impossible without backing up? Then 5 the lot of then maybe the sections will be more rideable or the system of marking needs looking at?
Exactly my thought, when I first read the comment...
1) How would the organizer know their section layout stunk without the obvious feedback of everyone getting a 5 on it.
2) How did the observer determine that "it was basically impossible for all riders to get up that vertical face without allowing them to back up"? To have been fair with all riders, allowing them to back up, then the observer would have to make that determination before the first rider attempted the section. Not sure that is the observers job. Worse if the observer watched a few riders try, and fail, and only later decide to allow folks to "back up". If so, then that was certainly not "consistent" application of the rules. Neither scenario works for me as a "form of commensence" (common sense).
What's going on there? Shimming out for better engagement?
Is this an alternative option as opposed to filing/polishing the plates?
You can translate the text, below the video, to get a feel for what they are doing. Basically adjusting for travel after the plates/disks have worn down. Or, adjusting once new (thicker) ones are put in.
Translated Text:
Beta 2 test model (Techno, Rev-3, Evo2T) how to adjust the clutch. This adjustment is intended to adjust the mechanical play of the clutch disc, master cylinder and slave cylinder, such as adjustment of the hydraulic system is different. Adjustment is performed when a change in the thickness of the disk, etc., when the wear of the clutch disc and a new replacement. With the use of, Machine, friction and wear of the disc progresses, the disk reduces the total thickness of the plate, waiting position by the pressure plate is lowered, riff - and reduces the gap between the master. If this trend progresses, state and always has been pushing the pressure plate lifter, due to the insufficient crimping force, the clutch connection failure occurs.
please NO......a motorbike with zero noise......AAAAAAAaaaaaggggg!!!!! while an electric bike might do the job, i can't help thinking it just wouldn't feel right. the engine noise/tone kinda tells you whats happening with regards to grip and how much power you have or havent as the case may be. you ain't gonna get that with a silent battery motor.
Electric motors still make noise, and you will get used to the whine. If not, then we will soon wonder how we ever rode without being able to hear the tires gripping the dirt, versus slipping.
I'm 6'2 and have a 2011 Evo 4t stock bars and use the S3 rock pegs and the bike fits me really well.
Likewise, I am 6'2" on a 2011 Evo 250 2T with the S3 titanium pegs, and the bike fits spot on.
Westygas - What do you mean by "too much over the front wheel"?
You can roll the bars back in the mounts, to shift your weight back off the front wheel, and onto the pegs. You say you have only been "trialing on it a few months". Are you new to trials as a whole, or only new to the 2011 Beta?
seems many report good results using the Caswells sealer in old succeptable tanks.
Had Caswells recommended to me by an old pro at fiberglass tank restoration. After trying many options, his take was that it was "the only thing to use." I sealed the tank on my Montesa 247 with great success, and no follow on problems. Cured up as hard as a rock. But, I made it a practice to always drain the tank when planning to let it sit for more than a week.
What should they do next to WOW the crowd?, They should have some pretty good backing now to set up props. My first thought is a van or car or motorhome, U Haul Truck. People need to relate to something. When you say they rode up a van, people have a grasp of what they did. When you say they jumped from one stand to another it is hard to get.
I was thinking a hot chick to bunny hop over or more hot girls is always good.
A good chase scene.
What ideas do you have.Lane could help them (seriously). Ringo could MC, Pat could give a speech??
Lets give them some ideas (like they need our help).
Three open mouth concrete pipes, standing on end, with a girl standing inside each one, and head sticking out. Squat down, and disappear, just as Pat rear-wheel hops, from pipe lip to lip, overhead. The girls stick their head back out quickly, as he goes by each one, in turn.
Snatchy on the clutch
in Beta
Posted
All comes down to throttle and clutch control, so the slow throttle would most likely help you out, as would the clutch mod pinned to the top of the Beta section. Feel free to jump to the "dark side" if you like, but you will find that the same throttle and clutch skills apply to all brands.