pschrauber

Of course you get them, probably not in your limited view of the world I don't know why you are posting this false information and believe me I don't want to know either. First we call bearings that are custom made "Zeichnungslager" and in Germany and I think in most other countries too it is possible to get them (You might google them) even just one. Now to the bearings of the steering steem which are called in Germaan "Axiallrillenkugellager" or "KT-Lager" and fare very common and found everywhere especially too from SKF or FAG and the other brands, here even with sizes and drawings an so on: https://www.sturm-kugellager-shop.de/rillenkugellager/axial-rillenkugellager/kt../1682/axial-rillenkugellager-kt-25/dlg100/25?c=469 And here you gEt them, sadly right now sold out, one for just 5,90 € without tax and shipping! https://www.sturm-kugellager-shop.de/rillenkugellager/axial-rillenkugellager/kt../1682/axial-rillenkugellager-kt-25/dlg100/25?c=469 And too in the opposite to what you stated in your post, as lower the movement of a bearing as more important it is that the bead of the bearing is of very hard material, as if the balls are only moving a little the force is not distributed evenly and thus put even more stress the bead as at a really rotating bearing. So here again you are sadly a bit too limited in your thinking or as we say "Hochmut kommt vor dem Fall", (haughtiness comes before the event). As an explanation you might look up this page too, even in English albeit a German www page of a German Axialrillenkugellager manufacturer: https://www.kuepper.eu/en/singel-direction-thrust-ball-bearing-kt-bearing.html

As mentioned it is not only the size that matters too the quality. And I have got no name products from different classic motorcycle parts suppliers and stores and learned my lesson, ask about the ressource and specific product before you buy if it is not clearly answered written uo in advance or before you buy. Most bearing sellers do mention beside tyoe and measurements too the quality and brand.

I would try your local or special onlie bearing dealer, because, you often get no name bearings from our parts supplieres and I had issues with no name bearings, especially with wheel bearings and engine bearings, therefore I now only buy them from motorcycle part dealers if they can confirm my personal needs in terms of quality and brand. I personal prefer FAG (German) bearings, then SKF (from Sweden), then NSK (from Japan), last not least INA also from Germany. Who pays cheap pays twice ...

That is strange, I hope it is visible now!

Then the best thing is to use paint stripper, check it out on a spot not too much visible exposed, that would work quite well together with a hard wood or plastic spatula. If then there is still some residue left you might a sharp and very new cutter plade and use it as a razor to shave off small scratches and so one. After that treatment a polish with plastic surface polish will give the former gloss back. See here for an outcome with plastic polish done to my bike, you might too see that I had an issue with the side cover of the exhaust which was burned so I had to repair that plastic plastic strips which I melted to the spots where teh plastic was crippled then shaved all in the original dimensions but there is still a bit discoloration visible.

Is it the glassfiber gas tank of the first and mid production runs or the "real" plastic gas tank that the later 242's had?

I only buy as many as I need buying 100 why that? Here is an aniline shop that does sell too to private people in low numbers, you can get just one, As mentioned at the web page not everything is on their onlinelist you have to ask for rare dimensions. https://gummi-metall-puffer-shop.de/silentbuchsen A better resource but only for companies, and if you ask them they also provide just one! https://silentblock.de/produkte.php?sprache=Deutsch I have also made my rubber parts and silent block using this set set sold by Corrosionschutz Depot, with good effect, My set up, which I have at hand for making new rubber parts, you burn out the old rubber and reuse the tubes: Their web page: 480 gr,; https://www.korrosionsschutz-depot.de/restaurierung/reparatur-kits/gummiteile-anfertigen/ksd-flexi-mittel-480-g 960 gr.: https://www.korrosionsschutz-depot.de/restaurierung/reparatur-kits/gummiteile-anfertigen/ksd-flexi-mittel-960-g

I have been using needle bearings very much but discovered silentbloc to be much better in all occasions, as theses are water proof, gives extra cushing to the drivetrain and do have even a tiny bit of extra damping to the rear suspension. And to older Bultaco bikes these silentbloc came with them too, like the model 187 or 221 which I had. I "re-" learnd all about it with my SWM and too the Panda which have also silentbloc's mounted, so to newer builds I use them now with good effect. All I do is to put some never seize between the silentbloc bushing and the swing arm shaft. If in need I will even to my 199b replace it with silent bloc "bearing" so convenient.

The frame color should be RAL 3020,. To the fork the very early SWM had 34mm stanchions not 35mm. You might measure the triple clamps / yokes which diameter they supply. The sign is the Marzocchi logo so it is a Marzocchi triple clamp or yoke and such a fork you need too if you want to stay original. The Betor fork do fit with the Marzocchi fork yoke / triple clamp too, if both are made for 35mm on diameter. I have switched to a Betor fork with Marzocchi triple xlamp aka yokes which lowers the front a bit and deliver a bit more overrun which is good for turning in my personal opinion.

Yes that id right, Motoplat uses transistors and these do fail, sorry for my late reply but I wanted to make that sure as I have come to likewise problems to other ignitions.

No but I would suggest you let them be fabricated out of PA6 plastic which is fairly high resistant and too very slippery. That is what my workshop did to rebuild the forks of my bikes, Marzocchi, Betor and WhitePower.