pschrauber

I can state my empiric observation that there is no rule, sometimes the wheel bearing last "for ever" and sometimes the got bad after a couple of rides. I have used OEM, Aftermarket, NoName and first class industry standard, all the same.

The high steel ones where heavy and bent easely, the steel ones are (still) quite good.

Original handlebars where made out of steel with an extra bar in the middle. That was the standard set up for mostly all bikes back then and guess what these handlebars where not heavier the the aluminium bars of today I still have some steel ones from Bultaco, Italjet, Montesa and SWM (which was for the export bike model TL.NW yellow at the MK II from 1980).

The simple PRO Version with one air cartridge in one side and a couple of springs in the the other fork leg is good but two cartridges is much better, believe me, I had ordered the PRO version with one cartridge and wasn't pleased in comparison with the two cartridges version for both fork legs one, which works so much better. (I have now three HFS Systems mounted all of the are double cartridges systems now).

Standard chains are good, if you have to use half links ISIS or Regina should be considered as these have half links. The ISIS half links due fit in my experience also to DID 520 ERT2 chains which I chooses mostly due to their very good performance in tensile strenght (and so little wear) but still are OK in weight, (under 6 pounds). There is just one chain better in tensile strength which then again is 7 pounds or 15% heavier. For a Chart of tensile strength see here: http://www.didchain.com/chainSpecs.html I would NOT use any kond of O or X ring for dirt bikes if you are using them also in weat, muddy and clayish enviroment, the fine sand will eat up the rubber rings in only some hours. * half links: Very important if you have even numbers of sprockets front an rear, especially front!

Points and the point gap is a common issue depending Sherpas. - The point gap should be 0,4mm exactly not more not less, - The points should be in very good condition too. The new points made today are not as good anymore as the old ones, try to get NOS. Here especially the material of the small metal bit's pushing against each other seems to be much softer nowadays then before in my experience.

Trial hiking I do a lot especially in the Alpes, the Italian calls it Motoalpinismo, sadly the possibilities are getting limited, but it makes a lot of fun also with old machines.

According the "Use e Manutazione Aprilia TXR 312 M": 240cc of hydraulic oil brand / type Motul F 10 W. The replacing period is between 1500 - 2000km

I had good experience with Woessner, who made the piston, rings, piston pin and also did the cylindercoating to my TR34, all in all verý convinient and cheaper as if it would have been done separatly. I now can get through my engine workshop spare rings just by sending them the batch number, (I refer to German Woessner here…)

Yep they have an effect to the bike makes it a bit snappier, most effect you will get by using carbon fiber ones, be aware of replicas sold one E-bay for cheap not made by Boysen of bad qzulaity (I suggest not to use them). THe backdraw is price and they do wear not fast but after 500km on the speedometer mine had a bit fuzzy ends when looked ap through mangnifying glases. What is also a good idea to improve performance and so have more effect then the Boyesen: - using the cage and reeds of the TY250, (a bit of miiing is needed) - using the rubber inlet of teh RD 250,

I would prefer in your dilemma to check out static and dynamic sag anf then start from there looking up the right spring. To me most standard sprungs are to hard as I weight 70kg. Thus I have to replace even standard good springs. I made good experience with HFS springs and too with their additional air cartridges which allowed you to adjust the fork very good. But you get too just different spring packages to your weight needs.

I think that was a rare incident where someone was rushed into high bidding during an auction. Anyway a very complete bike and in very well technical status with bike registering and history will get good prices. And when you look a bit closer now bikes in original status even with patina are going straight up because restaurations are easy made but original paint and plastic can't be restored just right preserved and that the complete bike live time thus here the highest prices will be archived.

Yes mine have the little excentric bolt too and this is a problem since the bike was designed the upper "Eyes" of the shock do rub to your legs.

Scandinavian rigid I would guess?

Yep would get a antifreeze tester and test to how low temp. the coolant can go. The other method would be to get the bike from one warm place to the other to put some moving blankets around it, as a two hours route will not cool it down too much in a closed trailer. When it is an open trailer I would definetly mix the coolant to be valid for these low temperatures.

Indeed and a very very early one too just no. 31!

To stickers I would suggest instead of any motorcycle brand to put also non or some big ones with the sentence "Pipe Cleaning Service" on the sides, that should keep off easy

Guns ... that is not the best solution ... can get you in trouble. Best solution is a road registered bike and an electric driven rolling gate or door because: easy to close and open just by key or transponder, in holidays you can even shut down the electric supply, very difficult to open if closed without electricity, if you try it it will get noisy. I never heard of burglars trying to open electric rolling gates section gates and.doors of course also standard garage gates, but rolling gates ... my advice in this department beside good insurance.

Cool but how do we get any trials bike to that event, (may be by flight ??? but $$$) and when the bike is there is that old tatty bike really of interest there, there is so little bling attched to them …

Alternative could be a Dell'Orto PHBH 26 BS, the a bit more modern one with air screw and idle jet nozzle. At leat works great to my 242, another carb but expensive would be a 25mm SmartCarb* but that is costly. I would not use an AMAL again unless the slide issue is not solved, (the AMAL used the same material for carb bod and slide which causes super much friction and leads very fast to rattling slides so worn slides and carb bodies!) The silde should be made out of the softer material the Body should be made of the harder material, so the slide wears and not the carb Body, thus the plated and hardened slides are not such a good idea because in the end you will have a proper working slide but a worn out carb Body ... *SmartCarb has no jets which is super nice in handling and if you ride in very different climate and hight situations.

That is a MZ with a custom made cylinder, anyway looks good too.

Yes and bonus is you can use the bike for trailriding where you want too.

Easy peasy… Get them insured and then you know, trials bikes can get road legal then a standard Vehicle insurance and you are save, stolen registered vehicles especially motorcycles are of much more interest to the Police then leisure vehicles. If you insure several bikes you get a discount too, thus I have to pay around 20 - 40 € for one bike in insurance, the tax for each bike is higher... A standard insurance for non road registered bikes like MX, trials is around 180€ a year for one, if you get a discount for several I don't know. Oldtimers (over 30 years old) can also be insured without road registration which is also 180€ a year (The bike was made: 1980, has 22HP, worth is evaluated with 7.500 € of replacement value in a total loss).

The bike should perform.better with an end muffler and would be quiter too. I recommemd the aluminium WES replacement muffler these are lighter, makes the bike even less noisy and are repack able.

It takes so long to get them dry? We have also very much rain (beside this year) and soaky ground, anyway I dry them in three to four days using this method: - I take out the inner sole, there is one that is sometimes tricky to get out, but to take them out while drying that is very important, (it can be too replaced by a new one too. if the odor isn't good anymore), - Then I let them stand and keep the upper part wide open so maximum air can reach inside, and I start to do so immidiatly and store them in the Trailer that's all I do and so far it has worked very well.