drake

I know this is a very old thread but will the XL350 crankshaft fit the 250 cases

Not sure if it's of any interest to any of you, but I have decided to scrap my project. As a result I am selling my 500 short stroke engine with MD barrel,XT350 Wiseco forged piston, all new bearings, cam followers etc and cylinder head completely restored and sorted by Roger Taylor at RTS. Brand new build as in un used. Will sell after Xmas If interested contact chamber66@sky.com John

pitted forks is the name of the company. They do a very good job £165 that includes collection and delivery back to you They do an excellent job sales@pittedforks.co.uk

Not my rules sorry, guess that's what the gators are for I think they had invented chrome in the 50's but i may be mistaken Lol

Forks are for a pre60 motocross bikes and they have to be or look like period parts. hence the Norton sliders. Cerianis etc are not eligible

Can't get hold of him? What I don't understand is if the Norton Stanchions are 35mm and the new bits are 35mm, then why turn down the new slider, wouldn't it be easier to just make new bushes or fit the new stanchions in to the Roadholder bottoms?

Well I have some Roadholder sliders After a bit of research, what I think that you do id machine down the Marzocchi sliders so that they fit tightly inside the Norton ones. Then bond them together. Mmmm Seems easy enough

Firstly who does this conversion? Secondly what's involved. i read here that the stanchions are machined down. Why if it's 35mm into 35mm? What's the bit about bondong/gluing them. I have basic engineering skills, so wondering why I can't do this myself? Thanks

Haven't been able to find one, motor that is Do you have anymore info on converting the 350, is it really that simple? BTW I want it for scrambles

Is it possible to build a Matchless/AJS 500cc short stroke motor using a roadster engine and one of those barrels advertised on E,Bay? or any other way for that matter Thanks

The ones i'm seeing are about 2" too long. so i don't think that sticking them out the top looks good

Hi I'm looking to upgrade the forks on my BSA. I'm looking at Cerianis or Betor forks. Unfortunately all the ones i'm seeing are too long. Is it possible to shorten them and if so how do you do this?

Just a thought on this, but if it's been retarded wont that also make the pipe hot?

Ummmm! you sent me the pictures of it

Theyre Paioli forks. As I have already told you. Get that shock sorted asap as well

I may be wrong but i think the 09 model was the last year of the old design, so was developed to it's maximum potential. I believe the newer bikes have some isues which haven't been ironed out yet, as it' a new design?

Kind of guessed it would be the 2009

Well my mates are all buying new bikes at the moment and even though I can't afford to change up or particularily want to. I still find myself checking out newer bikes. Have an 203 290 at the moment. So was just wondering is there a golden year for Shercos, where they got the bike spot on. Please be aware i'm talking used here, 2010 would be the newest.

Just an update. Have to say the bike is now buttery smooth on the bottom. Boyesens have made the bike , going to go with better as I can't quite think of the correct word. So better it is. Now how can I get the weight down to that of a 125

I love my sherco, but my next bike will probably be a Gasser, simply because I think I would ride beter on a 250. and you don't see very many Shercos in this capacity, and I really can't be bothered with a left kicker. So gasser it will probably be. Though this may be not be for a while yet as i have the 290 pretty spot on now. Loves it Just like to add the info supplied by copemech and others on here has been invaluable and spot on. Thanks

What about tying the clutch lever to the bars when you leave it. Would this cause any problems? Just a thought

I bought some Hebo technical six months ago after wearing my Alpinestars tech3's for a while. And after 6 months they are ruined. I wax them after most rides and the leather is all cracked and knackered. I find this shocking. Do all trials boots do this, my mx boots were good for 3 years and get a lot more use and rarely waxed. I also didn't see a huge difference in comfort from mx to trials boot, but that will depend on the mx boots you use.I think I shall be wearing my Alpinestars for the rest of the winter, and just using the trials ones for competing. Just my experiences?

My plan is to give the caliper a proper service with new seals, hadn't thought about changing the hose. Thanks

I have to say the brakes on my Serco are pretty spongy as well. (they aren't new pads) I have tried every bleeding method i know. The regular way, pulling through with a syringe, tying the lever back over night , tapping the brake line to get the bubbles out and the front is still not up to scratch. I was going to post this anyway, and sorry for the thread hijack, but anyone have some suggestions? P.S when I do bleed them no air comes out, and it's the front that has the problem