opdeweegh1

Aye Ross. I could maybe send him a couple of photo's showing the situation anyway, and then see what he say's. Otherwise looks like I will have to start from scratch again and try sell this one on. Must be of some use to someone?? Cheers. Paul.

Hi Ross. It was Central Wheel Components down in Birmingham. I will take a photo when I get back home from Offshore and send it down to the guy at Central and see what he say's?? As it stands just now with the drive sprocket and cushdrive being a separate unit from the actual hub, it would appear to me that little can be done. Therefore if I need to start from scratch again what is the best rear hub to be using, Grimeca conical like what was used on the old Greeves etc??

Old Trials Fanatic. As the hub was a bare hub, I was unable to determine the original offsets. I asked the wheel builder if this would be a problem and they said no as long as they knew the type of hub ie: full width, single sided etc. They did give me the option of either 1.85 or 2.15. I asked if it would make any difference and the reply was no, the wider rim would allow for wider tyres, but as the tyres are all of standard size it made no difference??

Some help please guy's. I have just had a British hub co hub c/w with cushdrive assembly restrung with stainless spokes and a new Morad 2.15 alloy rim. All looks lovely with new sprocket and hub powder coated etc etc. However when offered into the James Captain K7 frame and swingarm with the rear drive sprocket aligned to the engine sprocket, the centre of the tyre is about 1" offset to the right of the frame, making the wheel offset to the centre line of the frame. There is an element of adjustment that I have made with spacers etc, but to get the wheel centralised to the centre line of the frame means that the chain is misaligned to the engine drive sprocket. I was assured that the hub was suitable for my project, however I now have doubts and am also a significant amount of money out of pocket if it's no good?? Is there anything that can be done?? Should I be using a grimeca style hub instead?? Any advice appreciated. Cheers.

Totalshell I have read your blog with much interest and admiration. I am currently building up a James Captain K7 framed bike with a villiers 250 engine. I was particularly interested in your slimline clutch case and also your timing chain tensioner wheel. Are these cases readily available and was the tensioner wheel a homemade affair. Would be able to assist with providing information for me? My email is opdeweegh1@hotmail.co.uk Regards Paul.

Hello People. What is the best jetting options for an Amal Mk1 626 concentric going to be fitted to a Villiers 250. Cheers. Paul.

Hello People. Where is the best place to get fork seals for a set of what I believe are MP625 forks. Cheers.

Hello people. Anyone know where I can get a rear sprocket for a british hub co with cush drive? In the process of rebuilding an old James Captain K7 with a villiers 32a engine. What would be the best sprocket size. The current home made welded steel job has got 72 teeth which I thought to be very high. I thought 58-62 would have been more realistic. Any thoughts info would be appreciated. Cheers. Paul.

Ok people I need some advice / expertise. What would be the best fork set up for a 1959-60 James Captain K7 with a Villiers 32a engine. I have been told that Norton roadholder lower sliders with Ossa stanchions and Bultaco internals are the weapon of choice. What are your opinions? Is any one doing reproduction Norton roadholder lower sliders? I know Greeves are doing full sets of MP forks, but at a price?? Any advice - telephone number contacts etc would be appreciated. Cheers. Paul.

Have lost Mick and Heathers number and need some info on a Pre 65 James. Anyone got his number or if you see this Michael can you give me a call. 01369 840660 Cheers. Paul.

Taking the flywheel cover off is purely to remove any excess moisture from the ignition system. The earlier beta's have been know to develop stator problems, a frequent spray of WD40 to repel any moisture will save you well earned pennies later. Worthwhile removing the water pump and checking the casing behind and around the impellor as there have been several cases of erosion in the magnesium cases where a hole develops and the water enters the gearbox oil. I use Dextron ATF2 automatic transmision fluid which is red, therefore if any water gets in you can immediately see the oil turn pink in the sight glass. Hope this helps.

So have you got any pictures of the unit installed?

Is it definately coming from the engine? A mate of mine had an annoying rattle and it turned out to be the front sprocket was wearing on the inside nearest the casing, so hard to find and pin point.

Hi Folks. In your experiences what is the BEST proven method of applying new decals to a Beta. Is it the wet method ie: squeezie bottle with a little soapy water or the bone dry method, which can be tricky!!!!!!!!!!! I don't really want to screw up a good decal kit? Cheers.

62ml of 2 stroke to every 5 litres of fuel does the trick.