jameshail

I've been rebuilding a car over the past 9 months or so, and for removing the majority of the paint from small, fiddly peices like covers, and old hubs, I've used a wire brush attatchment for the drill - bit neater than sandblasting, but will eat through the paint in seconds - be careful not to be too vigourous, as they can remove small amounts of metal, so dont use them on any sealing surfaces - on these, you're best to just use a few coats of nitromors. So yeah, either as Copemech says - get them bead blasted locally, or buy yourself a wire brush for your drill - most good industrial and tool stockists will have them, if not, they're only a couple of quid online! You're after this kind of thing.

Need a man with a van, trailer, or sturdy suspension, to pick up an engine and gearbox from Halifax hx1 4rn and bring it to Glasgow. Cant get a quote for anything over 100kg. Engine, pallet, with all ancillaries should be about 230kg I'll come meet you in Glasgow from Fort William. 220 motorway miles. 4 hours.

If the rim has broken like that, then there will of clearly been immense forces on not just the rim, but the spokes too - they're not expensive! If you're rebuilding the wheel, it's ALWAYS worth using new spokes and nipples! Even if I have a spoke that keeps going loose, the spoke and nipple are replaced. They're pennies! I cant understand why you'd like to keep the same spokes? Anyway, if you're rebuilding the wheel, why not go for the DID style rim, with the centre fastening spokes? Much easier!

From what I've read in local papers, they're using the existing resoivoir and pipelines(ex smelter) to provide for the scheme - therefore no ground will be affected... All safe!

Pretty sure Billy Craig on here has had some sort of Major Knee op! He'll probably chip in anyway, if not, search for him and send him a message! Very clever and useful man!

Oh, okay. Well, it all depends on what you ride - 5mm is okay if you're riding wet and muddy a lot. On the top of the forks, there should be two little lines? I set mine so that the bottom of these two lines sits just above the level of the top yoke. Yes, it is possible to just take the forks off the bike, drain them, and refill them! I've never measured the air gap and never had problems! While they're off the bike, the fork seals are easy to replace! 5wt fork oil from Trials Uk, or from most bike shops will do nicely! As said above also, having your bars rolled forwards will make hopping the front much easier!

I'm not 100% sure here, but doesn't the 06 raga have fully adjustable (rebound and compression) forks? Have you tried adjusting them atall? Should be two winders or screws on top of the forks - might want to make rebound a bit faster, and compression a little softer... Also, how are the forks set in the yokes? Try sliding them up so there is about 20mm of fork above the yokes!

Just make sure you don't give it too much out of the end cards! Quite a drop off the end there!

Also, while your here - your swingarm spindle clamp bolts are loose by the looks of things! Worth tightening up as they're part of the casings!

It's a swingarm or fork brace off a TXT Pro - 2004. Those are the only part number matches I can find. It may be a frame number printed on the part, so pictures may help?

Quite like these from the Scottish this year!