trialtrial

Thanks guys! Much appreciated. I will transfer the timing mark and then cut off the ring - I use coolant to ensure no heat damage.

60North - thanks for the info. Can I just remove the ring as a single piece? E.g. apply heat to the outer ring and press it off?

Something is amiss, according to my caclulations, the ring only weighs 8.3 oz. Anyone good with geometry care to double check my calculations? This is a mid 80s TY250 Mono, perhaps they had lighter flywheels? Density 7.85g/cm3 0.00785 gr/mm3 Diameter 140 mm Width 28 mm Thickness 5 mm Inner diameter 135 mm Outer circle area 15393.35 mm2 Inner circle area 14313.45938 mm2 Area difference 1079.890625 mm2 Volume 30236.9375 mm3 Weight taken off 237.3599594 gr Ounces 8.371685767 oz

Well I got the flywheel off the TYp250 mono. I want to lighten it for a more "modern" feel. Some have suggested take of "some" amount. Some have suggested take of the ring entirely. Suggestions?

Hey gang, for all of you around the world who have travelled to Palm Springs or Pheonix - any suggestions for a place to camp with the trailer and places to ride single track or enduro? We are looking to go down in Feb/March for a bunch of weeks to get away from the Canadian snow/rain. I need a plcae that has wifi/cel coverage as I will still be working. thanks!

Thanks guys - great suggestions.

Thanks TooFastTim - I have heard of that before and I think I need to go that route. I think I'd saturate it quickly but it would be better than what I have now. As for the other suggestions - I am looking for tips from guys who are heavy sweaters and have had some success with keeping their goggles clear. No guesses or theory please.

SO this post is only for those of you who sweat *a lot*. For example, its 0 deg C outside, you have been outside in your underwear standing in the snow, and you start *thinking* about putting some clothes on - and you start sweating. Then you are in the "heavy sweaters" club - and this post applies to you. So if you are a heavy sweater and you wear goggles - find anything good? Have a system that works well? And again, if you have the little girlie sheen on your face after two hours of hard riding - thats not sweating, thats "perspiring" - just go home. I am talking about litres of sweat. Soaked to the bone.

I tried to modify the original throttle tube - but no luck. The cable you not reliable stay on the pulley. Nothing like having a stuck throttle. So I went back to the domino 2 stroke throttle.

Hi Martin. The Rev 4T throttle has a thread spacer/adjuster, and the 2 stroke domino throttle does not. The 4T cable has too much cable out from the end of housing so it needs some kind of spacer. You dont need to absolutley need an adjuster at the throttle, because there is adjustment at the carb end. Although the adjuster at the throttle is convienient. You have a few choices: (1) Make your own spacer. I did this and made it out of aluminum. But I have a metal lathe. Works OK - but is not ideal. (2) Thread the domino throttle and see if you can use the existing 4T threaded spacer. This would require a tap set to get the right threading, not sure if there is enough "meat" on the domino throttle to make this work. (3) Machine down the 4T throttle tube. I tried this with out much success, but it might work. Another rider did this with success. Make sure the cable will not bind in the throttle housing. I'll might look into this again. (4) Swedge a new end on the cable to bring it in closer to the housing. I am currently running the white (fast) domino 2 stroke tube, it seems to work well. I might try the black tube just for the fun of it.

Just an update. I had a local mechanic take a look. He did a few tweaks (valves, carb, throttle cable). I also put on a slower throttle tube. Combined with using the clutch a bit more, I have *way* better slow speed control - just what I wanted. No more inadvertent launching too. I now have a nice grin on my face. I am really enjoying this bike. (now if I can just figure out the darn hot start - but thats another thread...)

As gasser_dave wisely understood this applies to the wet multi plate discs.

I saw this over on the beta forum. Perhaps it might be a solution to persistent sticky clutch problems: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/28407-the-beta-clutch-fix/ Of course you still need to use the right oil and hydraulic system needs to be up to snuff.

Thanks all for the tips. This will help. Is there danger of flooding it? I seem to recall reading somewhere that if too much throttle it might become flooded and I'd have to wait a couple of minutes. ZeroRev3Rev4: clips and needles - I said it wrong, the clip was lowered to the second slot from the tip of the needle, thus raising the needle. New plug coming today. Haven't checked the vales yet - if still a problem, I will do it. Same with the carb - I took off the float bowl and all looked great, but that does not mean there is a little crap in there somewhere. If my idle adjust/needle adjust does not make it better I will dig into the valves and the carb. I envy you guys with easy hot starting bikes.

Hi guys, I am looking for your favorite tips on hot starting the Rev 4T. When I had mine out this weekend it was a total nightmare to start. I almost spent more time kicking it over than riding it. My bike already had the hot start mod (it didn't help at all this past weekend). I just fixed the idle mixture (it was 1 3/4 turns, I set it to 3). And I put the needle at the second to top clip (it was on the third). So before I take it out again - I want to know your procedure for a successful hot start. One of them is bound to work for me. Spare no details, please. thanks!

Thanks madmostin. I have the slow action throttle on the way. I know what you mean about a bit more flywheel...

THat's something to keep an eye on - especially if its street legal in Canada.

I sooo much wanted to ride that race, plus its right in my back yard... I know those tracks. I'll make a few tweaks to the 4T and give it another dozen or so rides. So many guys just love them, I feel if I don't give it a fair chance I might miss out.

Hey guys - thanks for the quick replies. I guess I did not phrase my question quite right: did I buy the wrong bike as compared to a two stroke - for my type of technical single track riding?

I dont compete - I use my trials bike to putt-putt along west coast rooty, rocky single track. I used to ride a GG 2000 txt 280 and it worked really well for this type of riding. With the trials bike I can "style" the trail, whereas with enduro or MX I just end up "brute force" bashing things. I like going slow and styling the trails. Anyways the old 2000 GasGas still works, but is really worn out. So I thought I would get a later model bike. So I went searching for a newer trials bike I can use for my single track technical riding. I wanted something known to be mellow. I read a ton of topics about my type of riding and the 2005 Montesssa 4RT and 2008 Beta Rev 4T kept on popping up. Well, turns out there were used models of both of these for sale. Since the Beta was newer and had better reviews - I tried it out. I did a short ride in the parking lot I decided to buy the beta. It was in really nice shape. I thought I would get used to the jerkiness of the throttle and decomp. OK, now after two rides this weekend I am wondering if I bought the right type of bike. I am having difficuly controlling the throttle at slow speeds for technical work and the decompression is driving me bonkers. With the GG I could put-put along with the flywheel keeping things going, but with the 4T - I shut off the throttle and boom I slow down now! I thought the decomp would be great thing to have for downhills, but I think I am really regretting it. I totally understand they are a different riding technique and I need time to learn it - but I am wondering: for my type of riding - did I get the wrong bike? :-(

I thought white was faster (larger diameter), and black was slower (smaller diameter)

Well, it didn't work. Putting a deeper channel in the throttle tube broke through part of the structure. You cannot see if from the picture, but that ramp on the throttle tube is not solid all the way through. The channel I was cutting ended up cutting through the ramp. This probably would have resulted in binding - not a good thing. But not to worry! I took my old 2 stroke fast throttle assembly from the parts bin, and rigged it to work. Even though its the fast throttle, it is a lot smaller than the 4 stroke throttle tube. I had to machine an adjusting barrel though (with a metal lathe) - so this mod may not be for everyone. Works well in the shop - I will do a woods test tomorrow.

Feetupfun - I get exactly what you mean - smaller diameter, but keep the taper. Pindie - I am with you - whats a throttle tube. I am going to use both these ideas. Smaller diameter, still maintain some ramp though. I might need to drill another hole to move the cable nut (??) close to the center of the tube. I seem to recall that when I got a slower tube for my enduro race bike, a small change can make a big difference.

On my 2 stroke bikes I have the slow black throttle tubes - just because I am a pokey guy. I just got a 08 Beta 4T and the throttle is a bit too sensitive for me. Since I had a spare slow throttle tube in the parts bin, I thought I would swap the two. But when I pulled the 4T apart, the throttle tube is quite different (see the picture). Can I swap them? If not can I trim the 4T one down to make it slower?

Damn. I knew something was wrong. No wonder I got it so cheap. I'll have to fix that.