trialtrial

he-he I am just doing this conversion on my 2012 Explorer. Almost done, just waiting for the airbox cover. My 2012 explorer - from brand new - came with a battery behind the headlight and a capacitor (the black box) under the seat. I moved the capacitor up behind the light and spliced it in there. Since my wife will use the bike from time to time, I'll swap the seat back on. It will take about 5-10 mins tops. I strongly advise to *not* remove the capacitor. It will help to remove transient voltage spikes which could cause problems with the CDI and other electrical devices. (I know this from experience)

Cant help you, but thanks for the tip. I am going to do that to my explorer. I did it to all the other connections but forgot about the ECU.

There ya go - that's the spirit! With the KTM 690 EFI - we do it all ourselves at home - with the Tune ECU software. Completely custom maps. With the KTM 350 EFI, unfortunately it follows a closed protocol so we cant really muck with the fuel and timing parameters, but still can do things like set the TPS. Perhaps the people on this board are a bit shy because all they have dealt with is carbs.

BAH *lots* can be done at home. Tranny, clutch, piston, cylinder. Even setting the TPS (its easier to set with the computer, Kokusan software and adapter, but can be done at home with a DVM). But that's for people who have the skills and tools. If you don't know what you are doing then I am sure it will be a gong show.

If you are (still?) in Canada, chat with John MacKinnon at Carrier Centres. He is the new OSSA Canada distributor. Google "OSSA Canada".

oops - just got an answer. The tranny bolts are 3mm hex bolts - NOT torx. I just dont want anyone to make the same mistake I did. Also use only a minimal amount of blue locktite. Shock them before loosening.

He is a new distributor, he was out for a number of reasons. For the shows, establishing relations with existing/new retailers and correcting issues on customers bikes. He made a special trip over to the island especially to meet with old retailers and fix customers bikes - nice!

I have a 2012 explorer that I use for novice trials, and the wifey uses for logging roads (hence the seat). I don't have a lot of hours on it, but am very pleased with it. A few things: - clutch needed a good 10hrs to break in - its fine now - air filter cleaning was a pain but the upgrade kit fixed that - starting cold was 6 kicks, but its down to 2-3 with updated mapping - starting hot is 1 kick - the tranny was replaced for a soft 6th gear, but I would rarely ever use it - this was solved by using 450ml of oil - upgraded the shift shaft and barrel for better reliability and easier finding neutral Would I do it again? Yes. Mostly because there are no other alternatives that can be a novice/intermediate trials bike and also have a "decent" seat. I had a Beta with LR tank/seat and it was a pain. Same with the Scorpa and Monty. The Jistie/Hebo velcro seat is too low. The Explorer was the only seat that make the bike rideable for my wife - and we all know about keeping the wife happy is #1. If I was going to a straight trials bike would I buy an OSSA? Probably not. Why? Because I live right beside the GasGas Canada distributor (Dave Fair) and he is fantastic. (really - he goes way beyond the call of duty). I would by a used 250GG from him. The OSSA Canada distributor is very good, they even did a special road trip across Canada to look at all the customer's bikes (including mine). But he lives on the other side of the country. If I lived as near to him, I would probably buy the OSSA TR280.

Finally! Someone got the pun. Too much "Sunny in Philadelphia" ... Season 6, me thinks

I did shock them to get them out. which did help. Installing them, I put on blue locktite, but only half way around (this time) - not the full diameter. I torqued them to 8Nm

Cool - thanks. That gave me an idea. I just pounded a sleeve on the stub and viola - no hangy uppy. P.S. I am very happy with the new map - starts cold 1 or 2 kicks.

I really dont like that the kickstand/sidestand locks in the up position. The idea is OK, but I want to put it down with my foot rather than have to reach over and put it down by hand. I suppose I could weld a tab onto it, like I did with an old gasser. Has anyone modified this? What did you do?

I just committed - I drilled a 3mm hole at "A". Cross fingers and toes PeterB says this is OK. I'd still like to hear any feedback on those silly tranny bolts though.

nope - gears are fine.

I am just installing the updated shifter drum and new shift assembly into my 2012 - this will allow for easy finding of neutral and a little bit more strength in shifting. My question is about drilling an oil transfer hole. In the attached picture I mark two areas that are at the lowest portion of the tranny plate. Should I drill at A or B? What size hole? Oh, and should I use any thread locker on the tranny bolts? I used blue locktite last time and I nearly stripped a couple of them getting them out this time. (Torx T10 - sheesh - give me a break?!?!?) thanks

The 19mm socket with the ground flat worked like a charm!

Thanks Peter - sounds great! canada280i - sorry I did not ask what map number they installed - send a note to John - he'll let you know.

Andy - I actually met up with them on Monday. Got a remap, a bit of tuning and some upgraded parts - including the brake pedal. They are in transit right now, but I left a message. Manx2day - thanks for the info. I will muck around with it a bit more. If I cant get it, perhaps I will build a tool a sell it on the internet - I'll make millions!!!

Thanks for the info. I cant seem to get at it from the front - the engine gets in the way of the wrench. Do you know the size of the nut? 19mm maybe? I think I will make a tool.

Anyone have any tips on how to hold the nut on the rear brake pedal on the TR280 so I can remove it?

Great - thanks!

I dont suppose you have an email address for them? All I could find was http://www.spanishtrial.co.nz - only a phone number, not an email address.

I have a 2012 explorer with about 6 hours on it. It does have a noticeable whirring when in gear, but other OSSAs have it too, so I am not too worried about it. I have already had the tranny out (to fix a user related issue) and it is dead easy to pull out and put back together. There are a few things to watch for, but its really very easy compared to other bikes. There are some PDFs on the OSSAUSA and OSSAUK web sites that have all the information. However the instructions do not have removal of the "clutch fixer nut", which was stock on the explorers and an add on some TR280s. This needs to be removed along with the tranny bolts before the tranny will pop out. So what importer is Peter Boettcher with? I am interested in his modification. I like working in the shop as much as I like riding...

I can understand wanting an o ring chain for trail riding with a trials bike. Lots of sustained riding through harsh conditions wears down a chain really fast. DID X ring chains have 50% less friction than other O ring chains, so that might be something to consider for a trials bike. The stock chain width is about 0.700" The DID narrow 520VX2 is 0.736" I haven't tried it, but it might work, but will probably excessively rub the front sprocket "chain protection plate" and wear it prematurely. I can see anything on the motor side that would wear.

I read that guys are purchasing the 2013 clutch pack. Is this the whole clutch assembly from 2013 bikes or is it just the "2.1mm intermediate plates" from the special parts catalog? What does the clutch upgrade do? I have a 2012 explorer with 2.5 hrs on it. The clutch seems fine, but shifting is poor. Up or down, any gear, Whether its running or not. It is hard to get into gear.