trialtrial

Got my test ride today. I am coming off a 2012 GG Raga. I am in my 50s and ride clubman, just starting intermediate. Loved the traction and lugging. Very planted feeling. Clutch was very, very smooth. I found the front end stiff, but my Raga is very plush. More experienced riders find my Raga too plush and like the Vertigo forks. Rear shock was very nice. Hard for me to tell about ergonomics, because I am tall and need risers. I found lifting the front to be a bit heavy, probably because I am hunched over the bars and have too much weight up there. I struggled a bit with the throttle. It is precise and accurate (i.e. sensitive). My Raga is more forgiving. Perhaps with a slow throttle tube it might work better for me. Also the compression braking was more than I expected. Nothing like a four stroke, but more than my Raga. The other guys (better riders) had no issue with this. Perhaps bump up the idle and richen up the low end would help me. One of my buddies pointed out that I owned an 2012 OSSA for a year and asked about the compression braking and twitchy throttle. I dont recall either - but then again, I have a poor memory. But I am a hypocrite too. One last thing. What I would ride in 1st gear in the Raga, I bet I could have used 3rd in the Vertigo. I ended up using 2nd for all the tight and slow stuff, no problem. There was a review by Don Williams in Ultimate Motorcycling. His conclusion was the the Combat would be too much for riding at the Clubman level. I disagree completely. I am a conservative rider (read: chicken), and find this a very nice bike to ride. In no way did I feel it was too much of a bike for me or that it would get away on me. Off to try a 2016 300 Sherco, see how that feels. (P.S. D & A - I know you are reading this - say hi to Lilli!)

Thanks for the info guys. I got a closer look (and a good test ride!) on the Combat today. Fromn the RHS it is difficult to see the "works" sticker on the swing arm (esp with lower resolution photos), but it does say it. Also, on the test bike, it does not have "works" on the rims. Yes, anyways, they are one and the same.

Hi guys, I am still unsure if the "Combat Camo" and a "Combat Camo Works" bikes are the same bike. I am seeing some subtle differences in pictures (from the web site) as compared to the local test bike.

Are the "Combat Camo" and a "Combat Camo Works" bikes one and the same? I am seeing some subtle differences in pictures compared to the local test bike. Not sure if parts differ.

Any pictures of the Vandal? I'd love to see one.

Glowa, I am similar to you. I have a 350excf I love to ride single track. A few years back I wanted to get a light weight single track bike. I tried an old GG 280 2T, an 08 Beta 4 stroke, an OSSA explorer 2T and now I compete trials with my 2012 GasGas 250 2T. Like others have pointed out, trials bikes are designed way different that 2 stroke enduros. Trials bikes have tons of torque. Some trials bikes are very smooth an linear, just like a 4 stroke bike. My GG 250 is torquey and smooth, not hit, nothing scary about it. Put on a slow throttle tube to start with and see how you get on with it. The only thing with the 4 stroke trials bike (for me) is the compression braking. I have grown used to the softer 2 stroke compression braking, and when I get on a 4 stroke its kinda odd. But that does not mean I would not get used to it again. If you go 2 stroke I suggest that you stay 250 or smaller. Unless your are "expert enduro", the 280s and 300s can be handfuls. If I lived close to a beta dealer, and they were a good dealer, I would buy a beta. Local parts supplier means a lot to me. I would bug the beta dealer to see if you can meet up with someone just to go for a put-put around the local trials area on their 2 stroke. Make sure its a bike similar to what you will buy (e.g. beta 250 2T). I have "bought on spec" (without a test ride) many times, and have been disappointed most every time. Good luck, let us know how you make out.

Wow - I did not realize that Tech was part of the infamous Formula mountain bike brakes company - thanks for the info.

Anyone have a website or company contact Info for Tech Suspension? I googled a bunch but could not find anything. thanks

Good info - thanks for the help.

I am looking for some close up pictures of the TYZ resonator that was tacked onto the header/expansion chamber of the circa 1998 TYZs. I am not having much luck with google images... See attached pic... thanks!

Perfect - thanks for the info!

p@ul250 - yes I think that is it - I will take a closer look. thanks!

This story starts off in the enduro world, but takes an interesting turn into the world of trials bikes... I am trying to fix an issue on an 2T enduro bike by improving its lower RPM exhaust scavenging. As I was reading about pipe modelling and design, I came across an interesting article by which an engineer from GM improved the effectiveness of the expansion chamber at lower RPMs by attaching a tuned resonator to the side of the expansion chamber. The article went on to say this was used on a number of production trials bikes and a few enduro bikes. Has anybody seen anything like this hanging off an expansion chamber of a trials bike? I would it expect it to be sometime in the 90s. thanks!

I got a brand new float and valve. Adjusted it according to splat shop recommendation... and... its the same as the old one. Fuel level to the rim. Perhaps this is normal?!?!

Its an OKO float bowl, got it from scooter shop from ebay. Thing leaks bad, but is useful for looking at float action and fuel level in the shop.

Nice idea.

Well, this here is the problem. If I set it up according to the splatshop's recommendation, the fuel level is as in picture 1 above - IOW, the fuel level is above the rim of the float bowl. I guess I have a problem with the float/needle - I will get a new one and see how it goes. Thanks everyone for your help and recommendations.

Steve, unfortunately no tamper proof torx (yet). But decided to check fuel level by using my clear float bowl. Picture 1 below shows fuel level to the top of the float bowl. No clue if this is right or not, but I don't think it is. So I adjusted the floats a bit so fuel level has been reduced to about 2-3mm below the top. What do you think?

I am looking at the float bowl and float area, trying to understand what is going on. I have attached two pictures, the float bowl, and the underside of the carb. There is a precision orifice in the float bowl (marked A on float bowl pic), this lets fuel into a a little chamber on the float bowl. This appears to be picked up by a tube (makred "A" on the underside of the carb pic). What does this do? If I was to guess - is it for the choke? I have to take a few more pics to understand how fuel is getting up into the air screw if the float height is wrong.

So if the float level is too high this will somehow cause fuel to get in the air screw?

If the scale was: nothing - residue - drip - seep - leak - dumping fuel I would say between drip and seep.

Yeah, must be, something like that. I am perplexed: how does the fuel get up from the float bowl, then over to the air screw?

I have a PWK 28 and there is fuel leaking from the idle air screw. Yep, the air screw. Baffles me how it can happen, but I must have something wrong. The carb is pretty new, maybe only 25 hours on it. Any ideas?

Thanks taffy. I gave the idea a go, and was moderately successful, but the slot kept on breaking. Then I did a silly thing and tried to drill it out. Long story short - heli-coil insert to the rescue.

I just busted the plastic idle screw on my pwk28. Any suggestions for removal?