trialtrial

Gee I thought they all hit the footrest - I like the rubber hose idea...

Thanks Ben. yeah its killing me having to wait for the weekend!

I just got a "new to me" 2008 Rev 4RT. Different than my old GasGas 2T but nice and mellow. Driven only on Sundays by a little old man. Really great condition. Perfect for me as I don't compete - I am a woods rider - single track (nasty rocket, rooty stuff out here, perfect for put-putting on a trials bike). I gotta long ride tank/seat coming too. So I hearby welcome myself to the Beta club.

OK, it looks like I have POOR gas milage - now what can I do about it? - bike runs fine - I don't see or smell gas - I am not burning plugs - It doesn't seem to smoke any more than any other 2T Suggestions? I will rebuild the carb, but it would be nice to know why I am getting half the gas mileage...

Well I went and rode the beta - I could not pass it up great deal, very nice bike, ultra mellow - perfect for a dude like me. Kinda different coming from a 2T trials bike.

So there is a used 2005 4RT for sale - looks in pretty decent shape - not sure of the hours though. I have a GG 2000 TXT280 and like it a lot, but its really worn out. I am new to trials bike (been riding enduro) but absolutely love it for the highly technical trails we have out here. For a newbie I understand that a remapping would be in order. And perhaps the clutch might need to be changed out. But were the 2005s and OK year for the 4RT? Anything I should watch for? And to make matters worse - there is a 2008 Beta Rev 4T for about the same price. *sigh* thanks Don

Hey gang, I noticed my txt 280 seems to go through the fuel pretty quickly. I don't compete - I use the bike for single track woods riding. I went out today, and tank of fuel plus 1 extra litre (hebo) lasted 50 minutes - until I hit reserve. Is this normal? The bike runs great, starts great, I never foul plugs. thanks Don

I have a 44(H) 1984 TY250(L) and I am going through some confusion with spark plugs and resistor caps. The manual says (yes I have the original manual) use Champion N5G - most cross references map this to NGK B6EV. However on http://www.yamahaty.com/english/bougiesen.html he maps the Champion N5G to B6EVX (high performance - no resistor). Any mono owners out there - what plug do you run? The previous owner was running BR6ES with a plug cap that has a resistor in it as well. Does the resistor really make a difference? The only thing it does is reduce noise - does it interfere with the CDI? thanks

Check it out - 20mins in the ultrasonic machine with a solution of 10% simple green and tap water. I am impressed. Just working on the Brass now - I think that'll require some special solution. Jon - I know what you mean about the tools. Any special mill in mind? I bought an Rongu RF45 and LOVE it. Not cheap though...

Thanks for all the replies gang. I tried lacquer thinner last night - with some success on the aluminum - but nothing on the brass. I found that ultasonic cleaners are quite cheap so I got one coming tomorrow - that'll be fun! (I love tools almost as much as riding...)

Well, well - here is the explanation... This green crap is on the carb, float and up both the jets. Any clue how I can get this green crap off? Carb cleaner does not do a thing. I need some kind of acid that will not harm brass or aluminum alloy. I guess I'll have to hunt down a carb rebuild kit. It's a TK carb - any clue where I can get rebuild kits for this in Canada?

I just got a ty250 mono. Great condition. Total pain to start. I pretty sure the carb needs cleaning as the float bowl overflow keeps dumping out gas. Any tips or tune-ups I can do to make this an easy starter? thanks

OK, forget it - I see I have to buy a special puller *sigh*

Suggestions on how to remove the flywheel on my 2000 TXT 280? I have all kinds of pullers, but the flywheel does not have threaded holes. I don't really want to purchase a special tool. thanks

Why not just pull the plug, leave it connected to the HT line, lay it on the side of the crankcase, dim the lights and look for a good spark. If you *really* want to have fun, pour some gas around it.

So I installed the new regulator, and rather than test with a live fan, I put on a multimeter at the AC spot and after the rectifier. I tried it about 6 times and twice the DC was up at 18-25V - but my last two tests the DC was at a nice 13.5V Grrrr. I am on my second rectifier, third fan and second regulator. Crappy thing about this AC shunt design is that if it fails, it sends the full voltage downstream and will burn out the rectifier and fan. I ended up putting in a 600V 50A full wave bridge rectifier, but I still need protection for the fan. I am thinking of putting a high current DC regulator after my rectifier - any other ideas? *sigh* What a pain...

For anyone who cares. I put a 330R 20W resistor load across the output. The regulator would not do the job. So I got a new regulator and bench tested it with the same setup. At 13.9V is shunted the current to ground. So all is good. I know I could have done it on the bike but its in pieces.

Any electronics gurus out there? So my 2000 txt 280 has a single wire regulator - so I am guessing the alternator must be single phase. In the schematic it shows the regulator fits between the input/output (same connection) and ground. So I am guessing the regulator will shunt current to ground when it goes over voltage. I want to bench test the regulator. I have a variac and a meter. Here is how I connected it up. I connected the meter to the output of the variac. Then I connected the regulator across the output. I slowly turned up voltage - up to 18VAC - but the reg did not keep the output voltage down. Is this a valid bench test? Should I have a load? thanks

I have a GG TXT 280 2000 - I bought myself a hobo front fork gas tank. It has two hoses. The poor english instructions say something about I can connect one of the lines of the hobo tank to the vapour out of the GG gas tank and it will suck fuel in. Anyone one one of these? How best did you hook it up? thanks

My 2000 280 txt has the same behaviour (although it might not be the same problem). I slighlty crack the throttle when starting warm and its good to go. I am sure a carb rebuild and setup would help...

Just an update: - Clutch back together, clutch MC back together. Used dino 5W30. Much much better, just some drag not a real bother though. - Kick starter works just great. - I replaced the rectifier for the fan with a 35A 600V bridge one. All works fine now. Although I tested the thermo switch it was still getting too hot, so I hardwired the fan until I get a new switch. Thanks all for the help.

Ahh, that'd explain the larger rubber boot.

Thanks for the tip. I polished up the hub and the basket (buffer wheel) and put it all back together. It all wwent back togtehr very well. Kick starter works great. Hopefully I can test the clutch tomorrow. However, the plot continues... I went to rebuild the clutch master cylinder, pulled it apart, then opened up the new parts. Hmmm - its quite different. Was there a parts update to the clucth m.c.? The piston is different, although the same diameter. The spring length are different, although when combined with the piston, the overall lengths are close. And the new rubber end seal is way too large. Suggestions? Use it as is?

OK, I cleaned up all the parts - the clucth plates all are flat, athough do show *slight* discoloration/scoring. I cannot feel anything though. I figure I can clean these up with some 2000 wet/dry on a surface plate. Here are some pictures of the clutch hub and basket. Definitely some wear and a ding or two. On the hub I can clean up the dings and the burrs, but not sure how (or even if) I should clean up the wear marks. On the basket, there are some burrs on the edges that can be cleaned up, what about the wear, should I bother? thanks for all your help Jon.

OK, now into the clutch - Jon you said that the 280 did not have a locking tab - the parts book agrees. Any clue what to torque the nut? 40ft-lbs? What about a little bit of (very carefully applied) red locktite? I am surprised they dont have a locking tab. Anyways the clutch springs all measure the same height +/- 0.1mm