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I thought the T.V. commentators and pundits were laying it on a bit thick about Rossi.He proved he can ride a very good bike very well......everyone knew that.THE story had to be that a 20 year old rookie made him work so hard for it.Stavros said it might have been different if Rossi started at the front but Marquez was next to him at the start so the net result would have been the same. Felt sorry for Cal tho.

If Marquez' style works on the new tyres over race distances will we see others trying to copy it?Let's just hope there are no silly injuries ( or serious ones) to spoil the season.Can't wait for Sunday!

Didn't Cal beat him on the last day? Even if he is back on form he's going to have his work cut out this season.Lorenzo and Pedrosa are both quick and consistent and Marquez doesn't care about other peoples reputations.Rossi......wins yes,championship no.

My 191 clubfoot did have the fine gauze around the tube.I binned the gauze and replaced the perforated tube then repacked.

Both great looking bikes bondy,be happy if my 191 looked half as nice when it's done!

If it helps it was on receipt as mild steel perforated sheet 2x3x1mm and it was £7.72 for a piece 15cmx25cm.

Hi Scot, I'm lucky enough to have a long established hardware shop nearby that has a metal warehouse.I think it was only about £6 or £7 pounds for the piece in the middle box and not much more for a bit big enough for a couple of attempts at the one in the rear box, they were both under £10 each.I would suggest you use a thin 1mm cutting disc and try not to cut too deeply around the baffles, i had to fill the places where i'd nicked them with a spot of weld.As you're not exactly local have a look on-line,someone must sell it over there.

Hi Scot, it's worth doing and as you can weld you'll have no problem.I did it on my nephews Gas Gas and it transformed it.I've done it on my 191 but as it's not finished i can't comment on the improvement yet.Hopefully i've attached pitures so you can see whats inside ( please note on middle box a previous owner cut it across it's length! this will be tidied up later) I would suggest that you remove and replace the perforated tubes as they are very hard to clean properly and you can buy perforated sheet cheaply and make your own.

I was looking at the the one from BultacoUK that Bondy mentioned,might give that a go.The ebay link ( thanks jer ) is tempting but at £25 ( at the starting price)for a can you couldn't be sure you'd be able to get another can to touch things up later.I saw one go for £23 recently + postage!.......so thats the cost of a set of spokes or an exchange hub for the price of two aerosols....maybe not!

Cheers, i'll check them out.The barrel has been shot blasted clean and the exhaust is in bare metal so thats a good start.

Hi all, was looking on-line for High temp satin black paint for the 191's barrel and the post surgery exhaust and see you can't get the PJ1 stuff anymore.Always used this type of thing on my air-cooled MXers back in the old days ( 80's).Can anyone recommend a similar product that they have actually used?

Just out of interest ( and for future reference ) what is the timing on your 340 set at Woody?

Funnily enough i was out in the shed when that last post was added.Took the tank cover off to find the wires have been cut off! The actual clock is still working though.If you unscrew the three screws holding the clock cover and remove the clock there is a battery access cover screwed in.As for the wires i'd post the same question on the Gas Gas forum.

Hi, my nephew has a '97 JTX 250.I've been practicing on it ( my first go a trials too ) and it's very addictive! I'll have a look at the stopclock when i get a chance.I'm sure you're going to love it.

Its got to be possible,i bet Dani's worried.This must be the first time for quite a while that there'll be a real fight withing both Japanese works teams.If they end up sharing the points he must be in with a shout.I hope Dorna have spare records of the Spanish national anthem or it's going to get worn out very quickly!

The subject of poor quality fuel comes up alot especially when it comes to classic bikes ( and cars ).Something that my mate mentioned might be worth looking into when it comes to two-strokes.He was at a course on chainsaws run by the council and they covered the maintenance as well as cutting.The instructor said that the fuel degrades lowering its octane rating in about six weeks! The pro tree surgeons buy a pre-mix ( already mixed ) that lasts much longer.I know chainsaws dont have massive tanks but i should imagine if you use it all day you must get through quite a bit.Cant remember what it's called but i'll ask and see what ratios it comes in.

I should think it'll be a difficult weekend for all of them.Make the most of watching factory prototypes while we still can before Dorna ruins it all!

Thanks all for the advice.With the swingarm off you can clearly see that the bushes are out of alignment but i cant imagine how anyone managed to do that without bending something else.....add swingarm to shopping list. The engine mount was still out slightly too without the swingarm fitted.Back to basics and i measured the holes for the pivot relative to the frame,turns out one was slightly further back and very slightly smaller!Looks like someone had bodged it a bit welding next to it when converting from R/H brake pedal set-up which is funny because i'm going to put it back on the right! Managed to open it up to match the other side and you can now push the last engine mounting bolt in by hand,it's snug but doesn't need to be tapped in with rubber hammer now.

It doesn't fit either way at the moment so if something needs straightening i'd like to be sure which way up it was supposed to be.The measurement was to make sure the exhaust isn't too close to the wheel.My wheels are dismantled so i cant put it in to check at the moment.Didn't want to get the exhaust done just to find out it fouled the tyre later on.

The bikes been stranded on the bench for a while due to other jobs.Getting back to sorting out the exhaust (see previous thread ) i need to find out what clearance there is, where the middle box and clubfoot join,between the wheel and the frame.I put an old set of nylon bushes back in the swingarm and mounted it on the frame (dry build for exhaust mods so frame,swingarm,tank,airbox,crankcases,barrel and head only).The problem is that the rear engine mount doesn't line up with the swingarm spindle if it's mounted on the engine first and if you put the spindle through first only one engine mounting bolt will line up.Clearly something isn't straight but before i get the oxy-acetylene to it there are three questions.1 the swing-arm bushes don't appear to be in-line, the inner ends are further back than the outer ones but are straight horizontally,surely thats not normal but they don't seem dented/stressed anywhere.2 which way is up for the rear engine mount? ( got the bike in bits so i didn't dismantle it) one end is 90 degrees to the back and one is angled and there is a 4 or 5mm difference between the distance to the bolt holes.and 3 can someone measure the distance between the r/h rear frame tube ( the one from footpeg to shock mount) and the nearest part of the wheel/tyre at the point where the bottom of the airbox is please.

You'd have thought so! Any suggestions as to best place to go for parts?

Yes it looks a lot like that. I may just be being a bit thick here but can someone tell me what capacities they were in what year.The jpg above says '95 works 255.People mention 255s and 295s if you look at the graphics on the bike in the picture the typeset of the two "5s" are different.Are they both 5s or is the middle one a stylised 9? When i saw my nephews bike in the van i read it as 255 and when we spoke later on the phone he said it was 295!

The tank/seat unit is green and the front mudguard looks purple(ish).

I know very little about these bikes ( i have a 191 Sherpa ) but my nephew just got one as a project.As far as i know they are French and used Rotax or Yamaha engines depending on age.I have seen the bike very briefly in the back of his van but haven't had a good look at it.Talking to him on the phone he said the graphics say 295 and he was thinking it's a 295 works.When looking for an engine number he came up with Beta 6300-A ! also 269A Beta on the head.The number on the headstock is 68097.Did they use Beta engines at all or has it been modified ( bodged?) at some time.If it helps the bike has the chain on the right,the ignition on the right and the kickstart on the left.Hydraulic cluch and delorto carb.Any help would be appreciated.

It's a good way to exersise/rehabilitate without thinking about it.Enjoy your Gas Gas.