aussiechris

That's top information - exactly what I was looking for. Thank you Sportsawyer. Those dimensions look correct. I see Race Tech also have the correct original NOK BR 2722 seals 39 x 52 x11mm (Race Tech FSOS 39 P) My new Montesa bush and seal arrived in the mail today so I will install those now. However, I will be trying to source the Race Tech parts (just need them to post to Australia) over the coming weeks because I'm sure the Montesa ones will fail soon enough. I see the Splat Shop are showing the older 51414-NN3-821 part in stock as well. It's disappointing that even the replacement bushes supplied to the dealers are faulty. The more correct course of action would be for Montesa to get back to Showa and get them to sort it out. .

Hi folks, I was wondering if anyone has found a suitable replacement top bush for the Showa 39mm forks. I am gathering quite a collection of faulty bushes as each replacement one I buy fails in the same manner (teflon pealing off and getting under the seal). The last one I bought lasted just one month (3 rides) and I'm getting quite annoyed about having to replace the bush and seal this often. I was hoping to find an aftermarket replacement or something off another bike. The dealer here has contacted the factory about this a number of times and they continue to deny the problem and just say it's not a warranty issue. I don't want warranty, I just want a bush that lasts like it should. Some of my bushes:

Yeah, anyone know why Jim is banned? He has done more to help Gas Gas owners than everyone else put together and as far as I know has never asked for anything in return or tried to promote his or any other business. Very disappointing news.

Hi Jim, You mentioned you only use XGF main bearings now. Are they the same a Xiu Engineering? The reason for asking is that 18 months ago I replaced the main bearings in my 2011 300 Raga (due to cracked crankcases) and I was talked into using the Xiu Engineering ones because they are lower friction and have long-life silicone seals. There was nothing wrong with the original bearings. Now I'm regretting that decision because my bike is consuming gearbox oil at an alarming rate and there are no external leaks. So it's looking like I will be tearing it down again and paying for yet another set of mains along with all the gaskets. If XGF is different from Xiu then maybe I'll go with them. Otherwise I need to source genuine Gas Gas bearings but don't know how to ensure I don't get the dud 2013-15 ones. Thanks, Chris. ps. I couldn't have done the last rebuild without your excellent videos. Thank you.

It appears the 2016 Repsol has the longer (carbon) heat shield as well.

...and you shouldn't need to cut any wiring. The "street' wiring should be able to be removed by disconnecting various connectors. The only thing to watch is that the fan relay is originally mounted behind the headlight. It needs to be retained and re-located to a bracket under the seat (the original wiring is long enough to re-route). Check before riding that the fan comes on a few minutes after starting.

I'm pretty sure the alternator output is 160w. Without lights there should be plenty to spare. ECU and fuel pump should only need about 20w. Not sure about the fan but probably another 30w or so. If you're running the homologated headlight then that could be 35w plus tail light etc.

Seems like there are problems with both types of forks. Unlike the Tech forks, the problem with the Showa forks is not really the seals. It is the teflon coating coming away from the top fork bushes and bits of it getting caught under the seal causing it to leak. Eventually you will have metal to metal contact with the fork tube which won't be good. This is what a faulty bush looks like (and that's not wear and tear):

Unfortunately, the dealer(s) here in Australia claim not to have heard of any problem. They've obviously not heard of the internet either. To each individual they will tell you that you are the only one to have had this problem (implying that it is your fault somehow). Clearly, there is a real problem with the Showa fork bushes from 2015 onwards. I say onwards because, as Oz Thumper says, the replacement bushes are failing as well. Very disappointing.

Wow, if the H and D plate is softer than the OEM one then I'm in trouble. The original plate is thin and soft like cheese. I press mine back out using a hydraulic press every couple of weeks. It fits back on fine after doing that but I'm desperately looking for a replacement. I will check out the Mitani one. Thanks. Chris.

Thanks for all the replies. I'm not terribly concerned about warranty. Over here most folks assume we have 3 months on a dirt bike, but there are statutory warranties as well. Something like this kick start lever would be difficult because the dealer could just claim it was operator error. In any event, I will contact the dealer and send him the photos and see what comes of it. But I expect I will be doing the fix described by Jimmyl above. I could also grind it out and build up the lug by TIG welding but that will be even softer than the original. Chris.

I was wondering if this is common or just a one off. My less than year old, 2015 4RT has a problem with the kick start lever. The lug that engages when it's folded out has cracked and deformed. It seems the alloy is really soft. Apart from putting the lever at too much angle, I can see this is going to fail in the middle of a ride somewhere. This bike hasn't had that much use because it's not my only bike. And other bikes I've owned have never had such a problem even after 10 years of hard use. And before you suggest it, I am very gentle on the kick starter. The bike starts better with a slow push than a stab. I'm happy to purchase a new genuine lever but not if they are all this bad. Has anyone come across a decent aftermarket lever? Chris.

I had one fork seal start leaking quite early on (this is Repsol with Showa forks). I too was surprised that this would happen. Upon dismantling the fork, I discovered that the top bushing was faulty. The grey teflon coating was flaking off and bits of it getting into the seal area. I replaced the bush and the seal with genuine parts (both low priced). I like the genuine seal as it is a full double lip (two garter springs) seal. Those green SKF seals look good but are too expensive (at least 4 times the price of a genuine seal). You can get the genuine one from any Honda shop because it fits one of the old XR models. Just quote the part number 51425-NN3-821. It was about AUD$17 from either Honda or the Montesa dealer. The bush was about AUD$12 from the Montesa dealer. Again, this refers to the 39mm Showa forks only.

Normally you would pick the map you like then check if the switch is shorted or open circuit using a multimeter. Then simply disconnect and remove the switch. If your preferred position is with the switch in the open circuit condition then just leave the wires on the wiring loom disconnected. If your preference is with the switch closed (shorted) then you will need to connect the two wires in the wiring loom together. Chris.

Agreed. Use the HK1520-2rs bearings and then you don't need the OEM type seals (which leak and fall out). The dog bones are 20mm wide. You will probably still need to source the inner rings (bushes) as a Gas Gas part as most bearing suppliers don't sell them. Gas Gas part numbers are BT27712014 (20x15x8mm) 2 required and BT27712005 (20x15x10) 2 required. This only applies to the four dog bone bearings. There's another two in the underside of the swing arm with two 3mm wide seals. You can't use the HK1520-2RS in there as the total width will be too wide (40mm vs 38mm total). But those bearings a well protected and don't give as much trouble. Chris.

Yeah, check the front fuel tank bolt and also the exhaust mounting bolts. And, of course, engine mounting bolts.

Yes, you install that bush after assembly (before installing the sprocket). Sometimes it's a bit of a squeeze to getting it in all the way and you need to push the sprocket up against the bushing while installing the circlip. And it certainly looks like those cases have a busted lower engine mount. They should really be replaced or repaired. Been there, done that (a quick search will find my thread on why that happens). Chris.

I think the couple of turns you undid it was just the spring pre-load adjustment. Now you've reached the end of that, you have to lean on it a bit more (while holding the lock nut) and it should come undone. When you do it up again, the same will apply. The first so many turns will be the adjustment, then you need to nip it up. No need to over-tighten. Chris.

Thanks guys. That's all good information. I agree that some insulation will be the answer but I don't want anything stuck to the bottom of the pump that will hold moisture and cause rust. But I am very interested how that material goes ChrisA. Certainly, keeping the fuel topped up will help. The question of what fuel to run is an interesting one. I've been running 95 for no particular reason. The bike can be a bit frustrating on warm or hot starts often taking two to four kicks. I just thought it was poor technique as I also ride a Gas Gas. The gasser needs throttle and a sharp kick while the Monty is the opposite. But the Montesa starts 1st kick from cold every time. I checked the valve clearances today and they were spot on. Same for plug gap. So I will try running 91 octane fuel next time. Again, thanks. Chris.

My TXT321 had copper washers under the head bolts but that was a 2001 model so may have changed. The stuck fork adjuster will most likely be that the spring and ball detent has rusted up (that's the bit that gives the adjuster nice little clicks). There is a small allen headed grub screw (part 29 in your diagram) that screws into the side of the cap. Under it is a spring (28) and a ball bearing (27). On my bike that spring was rusty and the ball was stuck. I suggest you try to remove the grub screw and spray some penetrating oil in the hole. Then try moving the adjuster and/or removing the spring with a pick. Be patient and don't round out the hex in the grub screw - it's only small and can be tight. Yes it is a cartridge fork but the damping adjustment valve is all contained in the cap unlike the later models. Edit: And yes, you need to loosen the top fork clamp pinch bolt before removing the cap. You don't really need to remove the whole cartridge - just push the lower part of the fork leg up (wheel removed) after undoing the cap and the cap will come up with the spring and everything. Then you need to push down the plastic spacer, compressing the spring and get a spanner on the lock nut under the cap. Then undo the cap off the damper rod. It's a three handed job! Chris.

Just wondered if others had encountered this issue. I rode a fairly tough two day trial this weekend and every time I re-fueled I noticed a lot of pressure built up in the tank when I removed the cap. A look inside revealed the half tank or so of remaining fuel was actually boiling. It was warm weather around 28°C (82F) but it will get a lot hotter than that in summer. I've only owned the bike during the winter months so this is the first time I've seen it. It appeared to have no impact on engine performance - it ran fine all weekend. The engine is not overheating but there's clearly plenty of heat getting into the tank especially when parked even with the engine off. At least I know the one way valve in the vent pipe is working! I am curious as to any potential damage this might be causing (and I'd hate for it to blow up while I'm riding). Chris.

According to the 2011 parts book for the standard (non-raga) models the part numbers for the 125 is different to the bigger bikes. Left crankcase MT280310001RA for the 125 vs MT110002811 for the 250,280,300. Right crankcase MT280310000RA for the 125 vs MT100002811for the bigger bikes. However, the later parts books suggest they are the same. I didn't see where you hail from but Paul (above) is our Aussie dealer and he would be able to help with part numbers. I don't envy you trying to get parts right now so you might have to shop around. And yes, if possible get the 2012 or later cases because you can replace the gear shift shaft without splitting the cases. Chris (been down this road before )

Glad you got it sorted. Yes, it's bizarre that they stick with the loose roller bearings. But in theory, the full compliment bearing should last longer than the caged version. I remember owning a Montesa 172 Cota which had loose needle rollers in the small end of the con-rod. Pulling the piston on those bikes was common due to carbon build up. You soon learn to have rag stuffed in the crankcase when trying to re-install the piston pin through those loose rollers. You also learn a lot of patience. BTW, Nice countryside where you are. Chris.

I would dearly like to find a set of triple clamps that would give more steering lock. Coming from a Gas Gas or Beta, I find this is the biggest problem with the Montesa. It just doesn't turn tight. Yes, I know I should learn to hop and do tricks more but I'm too old for that, and it's not much good in a no-stop trial. Chris.

The above replies are spot on for replacing the bearings. As for options, I haven't heard of anyone using bushes instead of bearings but there a a couple of options for you to consider. This is from a post I submitted ages ago but is still current... Virtually all of the kits sold by dealers include bearings with separate seals. In my opinion these are rubbish. And yes, I know that's what comes from the factory. The original bearings are HN1516 which is a full compliment needle roller with a 15mm ID, 21mm OD, and it's 16mm wide. The supplied seals are the same dimensions but 2mm wide. That makes for an overall width of 2+16+2= 20mm. There are a number of reasons why they fail early. Firstly, the needle rollers have little tits on each end to locate them in the housing as there is no cage. For some reason, in our application, those little tits break off and get in amongst the bearings causing failure. But the main reason is water ingress. Those 2mm seals have a steel shell and that doesn't seal too well in the dog bone as it is so thin. Furthermore, sometimes the seals just plain fall out of the dog bone. The reason is quite simple. The overall width of the bearing and seals is 20mm, but if you measure the dog bones you'll find they are only about 18.8mm wide. This means (assuming the bearing is perfectly centered) that the 2mm seals have just 1.4mm to seat in. And since the seals have a bit of a radius on the inside, there's bugger all holding them in place. The bearing you want is a HK1520-2RS (contact a local bearing supplier with that number). That bearing is a caged roller with in-built nitrile seals. It is 20mm wide but even though it is slightly wider than the dog bone, it is all one piece. I've been running these bearings for about 10 years now in various bikes. You can expect 5 to 10 years life out of them compared to less than a year from the standard ones. Price is about the same. Even though the original bearings have more rollers that doesn't help if they're full of rust and mud. This only applies to the four dog bone bearings. There's another two in the underside of the swing arm with two 3mm wide seals. You can't use the HK1520-2RS in there as the total width will be too wide (40mm vs 38mm total). But those bearings a well protected and don't give as much trouble. Also, you may have to get the inner rings (bushes, sleeves) off your dealer as the bearing shops seem reluctant to hold them. Gas Gas part numbers are BT27712014 (20x15x8mm) 2 required and BT27712005 (20x15x10) 2 required. Hope that helps, Chris. ps. the 5 to 10 year life suggested above is for Australia where it is very dry and includes regular re-greasing.