steve_earle

Hi mate, Do a search on the forum, there is lots of info about it, I was reading up on it myself the other day.

Hi, As the other guys have said, It sounds like its running weak. Fuel starvation can also cause your symptoms, Check the fuel tank breather tube and the 1 way valve in the tube isn't blocked also check the fuel filter, fuel tank & fuel pump also.

Thanks for the info mate, You seem to know your stuff. See your point, No hard feelings. Will bear this in mind when im getting coating done in future. My beta job was a freebee in return for some painting i done for him so can't complain. I have been etching with upoxy super etch 2k, the brown stuff, as i use it on other jobs, then scuffing up with a red scotch before giving him stuff to coat, Is this an o.k method. Im starting to think my powdercoater mate has led me up the garden path a bit.

I think it's Fuchs or comma atf, I get it trade price as I own a garage. Will bring some sunday no probs. Takes a while to get back into it after a break. Took me about a year! Got a vid of you on section 2. The ditch looks smaller in the vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ar94MKmW7Q8&feature=channel&list=UL See you sunday.

There must be different types of power and some types must be more resistent to chemicals. My beta was a nigtmare if you spilt fuel it would go soft instantly and smudge if wiped with a rag. It was definatly powder as it was done by the powder coaters that used to be next door to my paint shop. Thinking about it now I have a thinners tank I use for soaking components to strip paint etc, and i recall some powder coated stuff dissolved in minuites and others needed loads of scraping, wire brushing and re soaking. Im interested now about powders in case I have a frame done in the future. Could there have been a problem with the powder used on my frame. Anyone got any ideas.

Wow, didnt want to start a war on powdercoating. I had a leg crack a few years ago must have been a one off or it was already cracked and i didnt notice or the powder coaters messed up. Anyway if you get them powercoated you will need paint the right colour to touch them up with, not a big issue just get the ral or bs number of the powder. Powercoating does not like petrol it goes soft in seconds and you can't wipe it till it evaporates then you have to buff it after as is dulls. (a year of owning a beta with a powdercoated frame, not good when filling up) So make sure your fuel breather doesnt dribble on your forks. I dont want to upset the powder coaters on here I'm a fan of powdercoating, Im just shareing an experiance i've had. I get loads of work from 2 local podwer coaters as some things they don't like to bake in an oven. Replying to a post accusing someone of being a bull$hiter is not a very polite awnser to someone trying to help someone with good intentions. Marky boy, Try using some decency next time to explain you have a different or correct idea on the subject. If someone post's wrong information yes, let everyone know but don't lower the tone with swearing or getting on your high horse. Please everyone disregard my earlier post and don't let this escalate any further.

Give me a shout if you get stuck Im very good with gas gas engines. If you need some atf i have gallons lying around so will sort you out some. Im riding hut hill this weekend if you are about i will bring some up.

Hi, to powdercoat them you will have to strip your forks down completely so you are left with just the botom tubes, the heat can make air pockets in the castings expand and can crack the fork legs. The best way is to get them painted, you will need to remove the original stickers and clean them with solvent then they will need to be rubbed down with 240 grit paper to smooth the castings and make the coatings stick. Then they will need to be etch primed with a decent 2 Pack primer to stick to the bare alloy then painted with top coat in white, 2 Pack top coat is more hard wearing and easy to touch up. The decals are 40 quid a pair from gas gas but they are decent & thick so will protect the forks too. I own a bodyshop and have done loads of bike forks this way (see my garage for the pics of them on my 09). Don't be tempted to do them youself with *arseole* cans you need 2 pack paints and proper spray equipment otherwise you will jet wash the decals off with the paint stuck to them. Find a good bodyshop it should take no more than 3 hours labour to do a proper job.

I find Galfer pads the best in wet or dry, The Goldfren pads work but are nowhere near as good. I would imagine you have a problem elsewhere in your brakes and it's just highlighted by the wet. Odviously you will loose some braking effect in the wet and a quick ride with the brake on will sort it out. I like my brakes razor sharp and will use nothing but Galfer's, I can ride through a deep muddy stream and still endo the bike on it's nose if grip allows it.

Hi, Take it to a paint supplier and match it up. VW LK7Y (97-99 polo) rings a bell and might be close but check it against a colour chip. I own a bodyshop and always have to go through colour chips to find something similar when doing bikes.

When bleeding the front, back off the adjuster where the lever pushes the piston on the master cylinder. The master cylinder has to fully return in order to draw more fluid in from the resovior. The brake can feel spongey even when bled so wind the adjuster in every so often while bleeding to check if the brake goes hard if not wind the adjuster back out and keep bleeding.

Is that you Jon. (Hut Hill sat before last) I Used putoline gp10 in my gasser at first as it was free with the bike. I then changed to atf after a rebuild as I have used it in all 2 stroke bikes for over 20 years and also it's under 2 quid a litre if you buy 5ltrs. I change it every other trial. The clutch had very slightly more bite with atf, which suits me as I set the clutch to bite instant. I found atf is quite progressive if you set the clutch to bite late, A few mates who are novice riders use atf with no probs if the lever is set to bite at the right point. Atf is designed for car auto boxes with friction brake bands and wet clutches similar to a bike clutch so it is more resistent to heat damage with heavy clutch abuse. 10/40 Oil would be o.k, But it has to be motorcycle oil, NEVER use CAR 10/40 of any kind as it has friction modifiers in it and will make your clutch slip. Alot of bike dealers dont like atf and will put people off it as they can not sell it for 15 quid a litre. I have a dp clutch pack and it's had 7 months of abuse with atf and its not swelling as the rumors suggest.

Hi There, You mention the 70cc kit in your post. I Have found the website but was not sure exactly which is the right one as the gas gas 50 engine changed after 05. I would be after an older one the same as yours. Have you fitted it yet? and if so what jets suit it or neddle position? I am only curious as a cheaper replacement in the event of a failure as the standardd 50cc has more than enough for my Son riding trials but I could restrict the 70cc to make it less revy but still have more torque so it should make it easier and smoother to control. Many thanks for the info in your post.

I know this an old post thats suddenly bumped to the top again. But is it really possible to get a flywheel weight for this ignition setup with an internal rotor?? This would be a great addition to my sons bike if it were possible.

the gasser kickstart is on the other side as opposed to your beta and its longer so if you have short legs is a pain. Im 6 foot and always stand up on the bike if im kicking it from cold. My rev 3 i kicked over easily with my feet on the floor.

Ordered this yesterday and it came this morning. My bike was already at the workshop so I dropped proper work and fitted it. Mega light compared to the standard lump of iron, The welds were very neat and it fitted a treat. I had to flush it out with some thinners before fitting as there was alot of swarf in it and was stuck to the inside. This was due to it being oiled to protect it in storage I suppose. It is a sorter bend than the standard pipe and is of the conical design. Inside the pipe, if you run your finger inside it (it was my finger Honest!!!) You can feel its quite sharp at the inside of the joins as the welding has not penetrated through. I have never handled an arrorw or s3 pipe so I don't know if they are the same. I would imagine it would need to be smooth inside for performane and to stop carbon building up the manufactures may know something I don't. I took it for a good ride round my farm industrial estate. Anyway it has that factory sound to it, Not noisier but you can hear it ping with every stroke and the performance is slightly sharper off the bottom and the bike seems to rev freely. I feel it has made a noticeable difference, The bike is a 09 300 with a high comp head and Carbon tech Boysen reeds so it's very naughty in the power department to start with. I paid 180 for it. Does it give 180's worth of performance? NO Does it give 180's worth of shiny factor & sound? Hell Yeah. Overall Im happy with it, I chose it because it looked pretty, was 20 cheaper than the S3 and it boasted the conical design what ever that really does but I have an idea of the theory behind it.

Update, Reeds and exhaust came today. I installed them, They use the existing reed stops unlike the dual stage. I noticed some rough casting right at the tip of the reedcage so dressed it with a small file while i had it apart, Good old quality gas gas!! Had a good play as I have a good choice of terrain around my farm industrial estate. Well they performened as I initially expected, Sharper off the bottom and build revs quicker. They basicly were the same delivery as the stock reeds through the range but with about 10% increse through the whole range. They did not smooth it out in any way but that was not what I wanted anyway. For most riders I would reccomend the dual stage. If you are an expert or a maniac go for the carbon you will notice an improvement. The real test will be at the trial at the weekend so will let everyone know if I find any problems with them. Fitted the Thor titanium pipe too but will create another topic so interested parties can search it easier.

Hi, I'm a gas gas rider now but had a rev 3 before, the gasser suits my riding style i.e Nutcase. The beta is built so much better than the gasser. In short the only reason I changed to a gasser is that I test rode the 20012 evo 300 and found it too soft on power and the handlebars were too low and and you cant fit risers to them unless you get the factory tripple clamps at over £500!!. Basicly I would have an evo now if it was not for the handle bar scenario, The power would not be an issue as I would tune it how I want it. The gas gas is cheap and nasty compared to the beta but they ride lovely and the power from my 300 is awesome. If you are a novice rider stick to the beta if it is comfy and does what you want. A gasser will not make you ride like Adam Raga.

I have bit the bullet and ordered some carbon reeds today, My therory being that they will give me a sharper power delivery than the dual stage reeds that will suit my riding style as i use 2nd or 3rd most of the time and crack it hard off the bottom. I have also ordered a Thor titanium front pipe. I have a 09 300 with a high compression head, Still using the delorto but keep looking at a kehin the only thing holding me back is reports that they smooth out the bottom end and i like the instant snap. Im not a rev to the moon and dump the clutch rider as I dont want to wreck my bike so I need bottom end for instant blast!! I have a 2 day trial at the week end so will report back on my findings.

I think the long pipe is the standard one and the shorter is the raga style for sharper power. I may be wrong, I am looking at a short pipe for mine at the moment as mine is standrd steel and is longer than the raga ones I have compared it to.

Hi, could be water from power washing or just condensation, Will be nothing to do with the waterpump as the pro's run an external waterpump. Best thing to do is leave the cover off to dry it out then replace it with a smear of silicone to seal it in future.

Update, 3 of the bikes have been recovered undamaged, The Sherco is still missing.

Hi, Like the others have said. Trials is a cheap sport. You can get a rear mudguard minus Sticker for

been looking at theese too, I can't find much info on the dual stage vs carbon. Would be good to know the actual difference between how they deliver power at what revs etc. I would guess that the carbon ones are better at high revs but the others better at bottom & mid response.