2stroke4stroke

There was a recommendation on here to use Heldite on the nipples. I used it and I suspect it could be used instead of a rim band so well does it seem to seal.

There was a recommendation on here to use Heldite on the nipples. I used it and I suspect it could be used instead of a rim band so well does it seem to seal.

His dad had a Bultaco so Damon must have ridden it on occasion. Just as a matter of interest Allan, what station did this come up on?

His dad had a Bultaco so Damon must have ridden it on occasion.

I doubt whether there is one event that has more worldwide prestige than the SSDT, despite the comments above, but there is more to winning it than being an ace in the sections so Toni would by no means be guaranteed a win. However it would appear from the UK sales charts of late that there is a growing band of purchasers who are less swayed by wins on a works one-off and intelligent enough to be impressed by the number of bored 4RT riders twiddling their thumbs during the morning work period at the SSDT whilst riders of other machines scurry about doing the necessary. Perhaps a win is not seen as essential to sales?

Absurdly expensive. Fit a pit bike seat for £20 (there was a thread on here) and spend the balance on three or four new tyres to replace those you wear out on the road.

As so many folk offered advice I thought I had better post an update following yesterday’s trial. I made a point of starting the bike every evening through the week and it always started first go. At the trial it started first go and did so for most of the event occasionally needing up to four kicks but only one reset. It seemed to need more kicks if I had left it on its side rather than the propstand; the injection, as opposed to a carb, shouldn’t really be affected by this but there we go. I found that putting the piston against compression then pushing down, rather than easing over compression before doing so as with a traditional fourstroke, produced the best results. However, I don't notice others doing this so while it is still not apparently 100% the problem largely seems to have sorted itself, perhaps as a result of extended running at the correct tickover setting? A class win was a nice wee bonus; perhaps the psychological effect of a bike behaving as it should. It even started in gear once, which impressed one of my riding partners who never managed this in ten years with his last 4RT.

If you Google John Wayne Montesa Allan you will get a pic of him in a Montesa jacket and on various bikes (but not a Mont). It also brings up a photo of Shatner on a Mont.

The camoflage isn't working then.

The CRF runs a 13 I think. There's bound to be some Honda that uses a 12 with a common shaft profile. Try your local Honda dealer? There is the occasional parts man that does not rely entirely on the computer but actually knows things about bikes.

Mine had no stand when I got it but I fitted a standard one. Eight months later and I've had no problems with the stand - it works as well as my Beta one but no stand on a trials bike works in all circumstances. That's what trees are for. At least there's no worry about petrol peeing out the carb if you lay the bike over as I still do on occasion. Saw someone last week on his new 260 with what I took to be a home made stand. Seems it may have been a Mitani one, it might function well but looks absolutely hellish. Another pal made one from half a handlebar and it looked very neat.

Yes, but that's another puzzle as to why Honda can't (due to clutch drag) produce a trials bike that will consistently start in gear when they have made millions of road bikes that would.

It took a bit of starting today but once warmed up I tried jiggling the pump connector and wires to no effect so seemed OK. In fact it kept running for a few strokes when I pulled the connector apart so the sparks must have been there. During the trial I got a few (rather more than usual) first kick starts but otherwise it was taking four kicks though only needed reset twice during the event so something has improved. I had been wondering last night if it could be a fuel filter problem where once running there was enough suck to draw petrol through but not enough at times when kicking before the motor was actually running. I shall investigate when I have enough time between events to risk encountering problems doing that. Thanks for all the advice guys but keep it coming if anything else occurs.

No bank sensor so I'll have a fiddle with the pump wires tomorrow - there is a sharp fold in them which attracted my attention the first time I lifted the tank but as the pump seemed to work I did not investigate. I didn't consider then that it might affect the spark.

Fresh out the box and known good used. Connections and plug cap done as far as possible. Earth done. It seems to be an intermittent spark (as clearly there is one eventually) but there is no sign of it once running, runs like a train. Mysterious.

That was my thought, cleaned up today but was not bad.

This goes on a bit but please bear with me, I'd like to know if anyone has had similar problems and solved them. I got my 2009 in the middle of last year. Starting was never the best (I know the correct technique of no throttle etc) but has deteriorated to the point where at two trials last week I had to reset the system several times at almost every section to get the thing to go. Once running it does so perfectly with no suggestion of a problem. New plug and valves correctly gapped, sufficient slack in the cable, properly oiled air filter. Yesterday I finally managed to get use of a revcounter – tickover was rather high at 2200 but now set to 1850. It then started a few times, hot, with the apparently normal half kick. Exhaust gas analysis was OK. Great. A few hours later (cold) it was back to needing several resets. I checked the spark and, with the kill button disconnected, there was neither sight nor sound of a spark in a dark garage (several plugs tried). I have taken apart every electrical connection I can get to but they are all clean. I have remade the HT connection to the coil. It eventually started after 20 kicks afer showing signs of life. Once hot it started with 4 kicks several times on the trot despite still no visible spark. I’m a bit mystified so all suggestions welcome.

I use silicon seal (which I always have "in stock"). It only has to hold it until the plate is in place after all.

On a more serious note I would certainly go over the bike with the spanners to check all is tight.

Boom tsssh!

I don't follow your logic. My theory is that a tall rider can move his weight further forward and back to control grip/front wheel rearing. Whilst the riders CoG will be higher his weight still operates through the footrests so if we assume he is heavier than a short rider then the CoG of the bike is effectively fractionally lower. It will be the position of the CoG of the bike that affects front end lightness? Discuss☺

If the bike had been lying with petrol in the carb you may need to repeat the clean you gave it. Stale petrol is very tenacious and blocks passageways, might be worth getting an ultrasonic clean?

The 125 silencer was a bit more restrictive than that on the 175 and could be choked. Find a road in the middle of nowhere and try running without it?

Apparently my local dealer is selling 5 a week which might indicate a possible glut on the secondhand market if owners change back to a twostroke (there being little point in changing from a used 260 to a new one within several years).

Helmet needs to meet the requirements for road use and bear the appropriate numbers in whatever form they use nowadays. Unless you have an old one with a then current sticker/standard as there is no age limit, though caution may say otherwise.