It's becoming a ritual for us southern observers to bathe in the beck before the 1st rider appears, blessing the section so that all riders get a safe passage.
Thought I take some slime of the section, but I wasn't intending to take it off with my a%*e
I'll make sure we have some beers on ice for him in the beck at our section (that's if we have a beck, otherwise it might be a bit warm), we'll call the line for him and not send up any big steps or down any big holes - like DL's helpers tend to do
I don't have my notes with me, as I wrote all the details of the advice I got down when I built my bike, but here goes.
The wide ratio box is the best option (IMHO) as it gives a better spread for trials, i.e. low first and close second and still keep a fourth that makes roadwork possible. I hunted around for one for a long time and eventually got one from across the pond - I couldn't unearth a complete one in the UK.
Serco used to do a lower second to add to this that makes first and second even closer - might still do it. Also using the 16T engine sprocket on the primary drive gears everything down, even if it means a half link on the primary chain.
This make first and second very useable, even with the 199 cc motor and 15 stone on board. I can't remember what the final drive sprockets are but the rear is pretty small and doesn't snag on rocks etc.
There are of course loads of: road based, CR and ECR boxes being used to good effect, so its not a disaster if you have one. If you haven't done the engine 16T that's a good start to slow everything down, easy to do and doesn't require an engine strip. Then you can see if its the spacing or the overall gearing that needs some work.
Loads of different opinions out there, this isn't the gospel, just works for me.
Definitely a Triumph Tiger Cub, post '62 - side points engine.
Might be based on the Mountain Cub or Street Scramber variants not many TR20s went to the USA (well that's what Mike Estall's books says). Looks nicely sorted - what you'd call Pre-65 Scottish spec.
After a wander around Hook Woods on Sunday and watching the top lads demonstrate how it should be done.
You watch them ride and see them do the impossible without a safety net, I noticed that the minders have totally different styles and no doubt abilities. So what does make a good minder?
Is it:
a) technical knowledge; guide and advise the rider and get him exactly where he needs to be etc etc.
inspiration; maybe technical knowledge isn't so important, but lifting the pilot to greater things.
c) safe pair of hands; allowing said rider to attempt the impossible and know that he's not going to clatter down in a heap.
d) Dad; nuff said
e) Been there, seen that, got the t-shirt; some one who can advise from a postion of authority having been at the top
f) mechanic; just good with the spanners.
g) all of the above
h) none of the above
I'm on the page the these lads need inspiration. Mr. Galway gets my vote for the sheer passion that he shows in getting the Mighty Atom through a section.
I was the very proud owner of one of these fine machines, de-restricted model.
Its missing the pedal shaft, these were next to useless, there was no way you could pedal it and as a kick start mechanism it was pants. The Garelli Tiger Cross had the beating of it in a straight line, but on a good day and indicated 50mph was possible - you had to be flat on the tank feet on the rear footrests.
I blinged mine up by painting the guards silver - well I thought it looked pretty cool anyway, well it was in '79.
futre trial racing ,5mm silver, bolt straight on . ask perce ! hes had one for both his bikes
Only problem I've found is wearing away the rear countersunk bolts making them difficult to extract, I'd get this with any bash plate, I now replace them after every oil filter change.
Titanium countersunks are the answer young man !! Who said bling don't pay - they might be ten times the price but then they last !
The Cub is spot on, but I quite fancy another project - but can't work out how to explain to the Mrs. how another bike got in the garage.
I noticed a Parkinson Head and Barrel go for what I thought was silly money on ebay last week. As so many Villiers based bikes seem to be fitted with the square set up I was surprised that it went for so much, as I thought that there must be loads about. I take it that they're aren't and that nobody is remanufacturing them like the Serco alloy cylinder for the Cub.
So is the Mick Andrews bike in Trialsworld fitted with the Greeves square barrel then?
What's the benefit of the square head/barrel combination on Villiers motors, I come up with weight and better cooling, but is there anything else ?
Seems every Villiers bike tested in magazines has a different head/barrel combination so there's many different types: Parkinson, Alpha etc.
So what works best for trials motors and why ?
I remember that the 210 Karting lads used the round combo, not sure if they were alloy replicas. If anyone needed better cooling I thought it would be them.
But looking at the various James bikes tested in: Trialsworld, Classic Dirtbike and YOU HAVE USED WORDS OR A PHRASE WHICH ARE NOT PERMITTED ON THIS WEBSITE. PLEASE DELETE YOUR POST/TOPIC. DO NOT TRY TO CIRCUMVENT THE FILTERS IN PLACE ON THIS WEBSITE recently it seems that its a must have, so which variant is fitted to the bikes in those mags ?
inspiration; maybe technical knowledge isn't so important, but lifting the pilot to greater things.
!! Who said bling don't pay - they might be ten times the price but then they last !
Bou Bops
in World Championship Chat
Posted
Look carefully, He'd been getting tips from Dabster and Wiggy before he started