charlie chitlins

The only adjustment is a tiny bit of freeplay at the lever. I never rode a Pro that didn't have clutch drag. People associated with GG have told me that it's supposed to be that way and you'll learn to like that little bit of "push" at the back tire when the lever is pulled. Sorry, but when I pull the lever I like the clutch to disengage.

Damn! I suppose you guys are right. I learned something too late....ain't that always the case? That silicone is some evil $hit and it doesn't surprise me that it eats aluminum. Now I have to do it again. And I do have the integrated valve and I went at the thing for 20 minutes with a wire brush getting everything to eat-off-it clean. Shoulda listened to me old mum, "Would you just stop and think for TWO SECONDS?!?!?" Fook. The other disaster of the maneuver is...DABSTER...I tore the beader that you so kindly sent me years ago. The only sensible thing to do now is go riding!

Yeah, Cope...you've been there! Twice it was spokes and once it was right by the valve. I make sure the wheel is true and the spokes are tight, then put a dab of silicone on each nipple inside the rim. I've only done a couple rim strips, but this seems to work for me. I'm reluctant to put silicone in the channel because I don't want to gum it up. It's easy to get most of the strip in by stretching it, but that last bit you just have to work into the groove with sweat and cussing. I hate that damned Slime and other sealing products, but tonight I was close to trying it!

Bought the bike with a tube, but I like the thing to be proper. Tire off 3 times and 3 hours later... Those things sure can be a bugger to get right!

3 years? That's a blink of an eye for me! Better for balancing on the rear wheel, eh? I don't even know anybody who can do that!

If the key was buggered, replace it, but, on our modern bikes, the flywheel triggers the spark, so its position is critical. I doubt this is the case on a bike with points. Unless the points cam is somehow part of the flywheel.

I keep a length of o-ring chain around to check clearance. it's true that some bikes don't have enough room.

Bummer. More stuff = more trouble, in my experience. And the benefit is? Lower C of G? I could probably wear my tool bag lower and accomplish that.

Does anybody know if running ethanol-free fuel will allow my tank to shrink again? Or do I have to empty it?

To quote him: Scorpa tanks are notorious for ethanol issues. A friend has one that was so bad he couldn't get through a tank of fuel without the particles of the deteriorating tank clogging the pilot jet.

The last thing I did to my Gas Gas was to sell it! It was a good day.

I guess I don't get around much. There's a fuel pump on a carbureted engine?

I love o-ring chains. I'll take the extra 9 ounces weight for a chain that will probably last the whole time I own the bike. No nasty lube, either. Just clean it and spray on a bit of silicone to condition the o-rings.

Interesting! I'll definitely see if it's available here in The Colonies

So...look on Ebay or something and get a tail #! I've heard of folks making them up. "F" followed by the right number of digits. I bought avgas for the first time today. Walked in, got my can filled and ponied up $6/gal. 100 octane, baby!

I got far ahead of him in an unfamiliar place. He panicked and tried to catch up. He's new to the bike and he was so scared he forgot to shift.

Thanks, Andy. I checked offroad mart. I was just thinking that there's a lot more used gear than shows up there. I'm wondering if folks would be more prone to more "inside" deals with people from the BB.

Whatever the theory, I've been doing it just as described for all kinds of levers for many years. That kind of heating/quenching would make some metals more brittle and, for annealing steel, slow cooling works best. We blacksmiths anneal steel last thing of the day and leave it in the coals to cool over the course of hours. But for cast aluminum, heating to the right temp and quenching works fine.

Yeah...the bike is jetted right and I run a fat 64:1 mix. He held if WFO in 2nd for at least 1/4 mile.

I was particularly thinking about boots... It sure would be nice to have a place to post gear for sale, or wanted. I bet there's a lot of gear that's been grown out of but is still in good shape. My kid is wearing MX boots, as he needs a new pair every year. No way could I buy him new trials boots at that rate. I'm still wearing 80's vintage red, white and blue Alpinestars!

The lad seized his 125 Sherco riding fast on a farm road. Seems he has a but to learn about shifting. After it cooled, it started right up and now runs smoothly. What are the chances we dodged a bullet? Back before Nickasil, this was not uncommon, but can the coating survive a seizure?

This is good advice. The soap will turn brown first, but wait for it to go black. Equally good: If you have acetylene, light the torch with acetylene only and cover the piece with soot, then bring in the oxy until the soot flakes off and quench. Now you can bend it.

And if you want to carry the front wheel longer, lean back a bit, straighten your knees and "hold pressure".

Thanks, Cope. The o-ring isn't very oval on this one? Maybe my memory is mixing it up with the dozens of others I've fixed since the advent of ethanol....

This '06 I bought had this little inline petcock. The previous owner said it was because the petcock leaked. I didn't know what he meant until I removed it. When I twist the lever, it twists the petcock just a bit and it momentarily leaks from where it joins the tank. I've tried holding the petcock to steady it, but it's damned tight in there! Anybody have this going on? I kind of like the little inline jobby, but I needed it for something else. Anybody know where to get another?