charlie chitlins

Oooops...gotta read the thread...didn't see the bit about the shaft moving...

Make sure your clutch is properly adjusted before piling up parts next to your bike.

No luck solving this so far. Probably fuel (ethanol) related. The plastic is way indented between the threaded inserts. Thicker o-ring didn't help. Any ideas?

I sure like those rear wheels with no spoke holes. Can I lace one up to the hub on my '06?

No provision to check it...just change it. Lowest crankcase bolt on the left side. 450cc of whatever oil you prefer.

Great bike. Just ride it. Change the oil. 4psi in the rear and 5 in the front. Keep yer feet up.

And...no matter what the weather, wear sunglasses. You'll be the coolest guy there.

There's a real nice pair on Ebay. They're not mine, I just thought someone might be interested. Cool piece of classic gear.

Looks to me like that number boss might serve double duty strengthening the swingarm pivot area. And anytime you grind on a number boss, you risk the appearance of wrong-doing. Methinks you'd be much better off shaping the exhaust to keep the problem from happening again.

Not sure what the effects of heat on the aluminum will be, but 200 F. is usually enough to grow aluminum as much as you need. If you heat the hub, the bearing will probably drop out. I do this all the time with steel. I suppose the spokes are mild steel and in no danger of becoming harder or softer from the heat. You can also bust out the bearing and put a bead of weld around the remaining race. When the weld cools, the race will just drop out. It's kind of fun to walk away from it, start working on something else, and, a few minutes later, hear the CLINK of the race hitting the floor,

Things can happen to a spark under compression.What looks good outside the combustion chamber might not work inside. This is why Champion used to make a pressurized plug checker. For a few squid, you can be sure. If you want to soak your carb in something, I have a buddy who's a long-time BMW mechanic...he soaks them overnight in lemon juice. I haven't tried it, but have no reason to doubt it...he's a damned good mechanic.

Along with the above... Check compression. You could have a ring stuck in the land. This could be fixed with a bit of penetrating oil and a couple heating/cooling cycles with propane torch if you don't want to pop the top. Condensors have a shelf life...replace it. No reason to put it behind the flywheel. Stick it up by the coil where God intended.

It's a weird one. It's a technique that originated in a time when, one would think, people knew that "Jap" is offensive. Thoughtful trialers just say "zap".

Arc the pads to match the drums (this machinery and people who know how to drive it are getting scarce here in the US). Get some no-stretch wore rope (cable) from a sailing or specialty aircraft supply house and make your own cable. HUGE difference. This was the secret I kept to myself for years when restoring antique Harleys and Indians. If you wanted your front brake to work, you had to send it to me

My '06 came with V-Force reeds from the previous owner. Anybody know anything about them?

Logs (for instance) that I wouldn't even think about on an uphill or flat strike terror into my heart when on a downhill. Any suggestions....aside from "stop being a girly-man"?

Could be the water pump seals.

That speed nut that holds the rear of the tank and the front of the fender...I always knock it off when putting it together and I figure if I keep squeezing it tight so it grips, it'll break. I drilled a hole in the little tab on the frame that locates the speed nut, slipped the speed nut on the frame and put a piece of safety wire through the hole. No more searching for the speed nut.

Lightweight, close-fitting, long sleeved, cotton shirt. For the same reason that the wilderness types say "Cotton Kills" or "Cotton is rotten", it keeps you cool. People in plastic jerseys that are like wearing a garbage bag with a few holes in it think I'M crazy!

Boyesen has the only 2-stage reed. They hold the patent. It seems silly to buy anything else. Any bike with a reed can be improved by their addition, IMO.

All I can tell you is, I've taken apart several clutches to find the friction material detached from the plates. Every one was using ATF. You're on your own.

ATF has "detergent" in it...meaning solvents. It can swell your plates or un-bond the friction material from the plates.

Paint them all the same color and never let her see more than one at a time.

Any clutch I've seen that has had its friction material separate from the plate (several) has been run in ATF. It has solvent in it.

You could play with oil viscosity. Mine was happiest with 5w30.