Cookiemonster

I had this problem years ago on a 315, all I needed to do was back off the adjusting bolt at the lever as It was wound too far in & it literally sucked the fluid up the only banjo I had loose was at the slave cylinder hope this helps

hi Stoker you need to back bleed the clutch from the slave cylinder using a syringe & a piece of tubing fill syringe with fluid, attach tube (fuel pipe or something of a similar fit) tap out all air bubbles, attach to slave cylinder, open nut (as well as the cover on the master cylinder) & gently pust fluid up the system using syringe, stop when fluid reaches the master cylinder & there are no air bubbles seem to remember using elf engine oil, raceline dimpled clutch plates & haven fibre clutch plates on my 99 & it worked a treat Lee

bled the brake successfully this afternoon so thanks to everyone for their advice heres how it went for me in case anyone needs advice in the future & also if anyone else wants to give me further advice......... took the pedal off, attached clear hose full of fluid to the bleed nipple & opened nipple (this might not be obvious to some people but It's so you don't have to keep opening & closing the bleed nipple with each stroke of the master cylinder) opended reservoir topped up fluid & started to push the allen key in & out of the master cylinder did this for a while & could see bubbles coming out from the hose on the bleed nipple but I still wasn't getting pressure on the pads I knew it was going to be the hose between the reservoir & the master cylinder as breagh mentioned but looking @ how it was routed I was hoping that it wasn't! took the plunge & took it off to see there were tears near were the hose connects to the master cylinder & the reservoir had some new hose so cut it to length & proceded for at least an hour to try & re route it back to were it should be & once I managed that tried for about another hour to squeeze it onto the master cylinder...... again knew what I had to do but wasn't looking forward to it, so off with the rear mudguard, tank, air box & silencer, took me 10 minutes cut the bad bits off the old hose, reconnected it, refitted the above & 15 minutes later I'm riding up & down the drive & ready to go to Cowm tomorrow!! moral of the story... knew from the start I should have just stripped the bike down & got on with it, would have taken me an hour instead of probably 12 hours over a couple of Fridays, unless that is does anyone knows a smart way to re route hose without removing the above.... thanks again everyone

couple of questions before I have a look when you say take the pedal off & use a long allen key to push the plunger you do mean the plunger in the master cylinder? (sorry!) if so when you take the brake pedal off does the plunger rod attached to the pedal just slip out of the master cylinder? or does it stay put & the part I need to plunge is the fork end type piece that attaches the master cylinder to the pedal? if I put a clear length of hose on the slackened bleed nipple & fill it with fluid then open up the reservoir & plunge the master cylinder using an allen key where will the air go? does it just pass through the fluid at the nipple end & thats why I top up the reservoir? thanks for your help, Lee

not had chance to look at this yet but have a few more questions TL TEL when you say 'remove the reervoir pipe from the master cylinder & try pushing fluid through that way' do you mean near the r/h side footpeg? I'm just thinking that when you re-attach the pipe you'll have the same problem as there will be air in the pipe between the master cylinder & the reservoir. or do you mean take the pipe of the reservoir & try pushing fluid through that way? thanks, Lee

TL TEL not had chance to look at it yet but have this Friday afternoon free thanks to everyone for their advice & as soon as I've fixed it I'll let everyone know how

TLTEL what do you mean by 'the pedal arm has no clearance at the master cylinder'?

cleaned the nipple with wire & there is plenty of free play on the pedal, the piston in the master cylinder moves freely using the pedal & if you push it with your finger when the reservoir was zip tied it was more or less parallel to the ground, now that it's atached to the carb it tilts about 30' & as it was low I think it's drawn some air into it perhaps thanks

whilst the carb was off my 07 scorpa the rear brake reservior was put in the correct place via the bracket on the carb (previously it was zip tied on a pipe) anyway the reservoir wasn't that full & as it was now at an angle after riding last Saturday the pressure on the pedal went, my fault I know so I've back bled brakes & clutches using a syringe & hose many times on previous bikes, Montesa & KTM with no problems but can't get it right after 3 hours trying tonight! about 6 months ago I changed the rear brake pads, refitted the rear wheel & back bled the rear brake via the bleed nipple in no time at all so I'm at a loss this is what I've tried so far removed reservior cap, attached syringe & hose to bleed nipple, opened up bleed nipple a 1/4 turn, pressed the syringe & nothing happens, apply a little more pressure & still nothing, apply more pressure & fluid starts to come out of the syringe were it meets the hose there doesn't seem to be any leaks elsewhere in the system, I've cleaned the areas around the pipes & master cylinder & can't see any leaks tried the above but opened the banjo bolt as well (on the caliper only) & all this did was leak fluid through the banjo bolt feels like it's not letting the fluid from the syringe into the system, had something similar to this on a Montesa clutch once but when I adjusted the lever it sort of released & I could bleed the clutch easy, as far as I know there is nothing I could do like this to the rear brake will try pushing fluid down hose after taking off reservior tomorrow as per some previous posts so any help you lads can provide might get it sorted in time for me to get out this Saturday thanks

thanks breagh wouldn't mind having a go myself, I've an engineering background so I feel like a fraud for not trying confident I could get the carb off the bike but do you know how far you have to strip the carb in order to get at the jets? regarding the airfilter I've tried putting it into the plastic rectangle first but the rim of the filter doesn't hold, I bought it from Birketts so thought it would be OK, are there better options? thanks

can't believe something similar just happened to me rode the bike (2007 model) a couple of weeks ago all day without a problem, came home, cleaned it, put fresh petrol in (same petrol I'd used for the ride) started the bike & it was fine week later dropped the oil, cleaned the air filter & left it until today took the bike out of the garage & the bike will run on choke but dies when push choke off looked at air filter which was new about 4 rides ago & it's frayed around the edges & easly tears (am I the only one that finds it difficult to get the air filter back in on a Scorpa or is there a trick?) so I'm fearing the worst that some foam has been sucked into the carb no expert on carbs having never dismanteled one, had the bike since August last year & so far this is the only problem before I look at the carb I'll check all other venting as mentioned so any other tips would be appreciated thanks

thanks Godzilla, bike's not done a lot so think I'll leave it for now & next time I'm out & see another Scorpa ask the owner if theirs is similar

bought an 07 scorpa sy250r late last year & there seems to be excessive play, left & right on the rear brake pedal nothing is loose & the brake works fine just wondering if this is normal? thanks, Lee