tazz229

Well my suspicions were confirmed today about my fan drawing too much power and running slow.... On a brighter side of things though so far so good... Only problem ive encountered (well not a problem as such but) is instead of knocking the bottom out of the motor it actually stripped the 2 little screws insted! Which is no great biggy dont get me wrong just a pain trying to find 2 that small lol. I even lifted the 2 metal tabs that secure the motor backplate too but it still knocked the screws out! Oh well should be here tomorrow.... Mission on!

As it goes ive flushed it through a couple of times with some oil watered down a little with some parrafin. Seems to have taken pretty much all the gunk out. Ive also got the clutch case off too to replace the water pump seal. I managed to drill the 2 bolts in the end just enough to release the bolt head from the casing. The threads were fine it was just the bolt head that was stuck so thats a relief i can tell ya! The water pump seal does look in bad shape tbh and the little spring that goes round the center hole to keep it tight too the shaft is just kinda floating around. There doesnt seem to be any tension on it at all! Fortunately the shaft it self looks fine so i just ordered a new seal hopefully that'll get here soon! I took all the clutch plates out too while i was at it and cleaned them up to get all the milky crap off them! The bike is leant over a bit on its side so with any luck any last remaing dribbles of crap will drip out overnight. Many thanks for the input on this thread and hopefully i can get this seal fitted and be back up and running soon! Fan motor tomorrow! Ill update the other thread cos i found the prob! Thanks guys

What year Montesa is it? The coils isnt behind the flywheel btw...

Ahh I get it thank you just didn't realise half a mm could make so much difference!

If there's only a dribble of fuel in the tank I just leave it as it is. If its half full ish I'll drain it. If its full I just whip the tank off. Laying it on its side can't do any harm. The only harm you may do is to the car lol

Yes its definitely a tubeless tyre and yes it's definitely seated on both sides. I've read some people needing up to 80psi to pop theirs.

Is that amount of squish really that important? I mean what's the worst that can happen by using the wrong gasket? Loss of power? Please forgive my ignorance and I really appreciate your input thank you I'm just curious! It's all a learning curve ya know!

Hmmmmm..... I've had to pump it up to in excess of 50psi to get it to seat so it's not like it's a loose fit.

The reason I asked about gasket colour is because Sting referred to the different colours being different thickness. So... I figured if the colour determines the thickness then I could replace mine based on the colour of it. Right ok is the squish the measurement when: if I lay the cylinder on loosely then bolt it down it's the diff between the rested and bolted position??? I've got no idea there that's literally an educated guess! I am very mechanically minded I'm not alien to engines just never come across a situation where Ive ahd to measure squish.

I can't be specific but from posts/topics/forums I've looked through it would appear to be the type of fluid in the gearbox. I've read many topics and threads that describe different kinds of clutch performance depending on the oil that's used. Ie the diff between ATF and normal oil and the different weights. If it were me personally I'd look up the recommended manufacturer oil, try that and go from there. Not sure what country your in but sherco recommend this http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/197/7383/ITEM/Maxima-MTL-Transmission-Oil.aspx might be a good place to start.

Depending on the size of the car... I have a Ford Cougar and with the rear seats folded I can lay it on its side and get the whole bike in with one side of the handlebar hanging over the side. Ok I can't shut the boot lid but it's only open about 6inch I just strap it down.

For a coil test you could try..... The wire that plugs onto the coil unit itself connect the red terminal of your multi meter to it and connect the black to earth, kick it over and see if your getting an AC voltage from that wire. If there is no AC voltage from that wire then go back to the CDI unit. Find the wires coming from the stator into the CDI unit connect the muti meter to them in the same way and check for an AC voltage again. If there is a voltage to the Coil but no spark then the coil is either badly earthed or shot. Or damaged plug cap possibly. If there is a voltage to the CDI but not the coil then the CDI is shot, or badly earthed. If there is no voltage to the CDI from the stator then the stator is at fault. Make sure to disconnect the kill switch and try that first. Leave the kill switch disconnected while you try the rest too just to be sure. Hope that makes sense. That's what I would do if we're me.

I've had this happen three times now. Basically what's happend is ive either landed slightly sideways or slid slightly sideways and popped it off the bead, which has resulted a ride back to the car with a flat tyre! Is there a way to stop this like some kinda bead glue or something? Anyone else have this problem? I'm running the tyre about 7psi given that I'm 12.5 stone. (that's .48 bar and 79kg for the rest of the world) Rear tyre that is. Edit again.. It's also a new Pirelli tyre so it's not like it's old and weak...

Just follow the wires from the kill switch, one of them will almost certainly be bolted to the frame or some earth point. Which ever end of the two wires you find first just disconnect it and try it. All the kill switch does when you press it is complete a circuit to earth to stop the spark. Sometimes the switch may get stuck and permenantly complete the circuit resulting in no spark. By disconnecting one of the wires your guaranteed to have broken the circuit and can rule it out completely. If that fails then I'd refer to my previous post for things to check. Good luck.

Good thinking! Maybe rub with a piece of chalk too??

Just because it doesn't hurt to have a full fresh set of top end gaskets that was all. For the price of it I figured I might as well while I had spanners in my hand so to speak.

Because I've got milky oil mate and want to flush it. I drained it out and refilled with fresh but it seems there was still some "milk" left behind because it's tainted the fresh stuff. So wanted to give it a flush out like you would on a car with engine flush.

I would be very surprised if it was standard Gasser practice to stamp the frame, powder coat it then roughly file away at the numbers...... But then.... I suppose ya never know!

Main jet: 92 ~ Pilot jet: 50 ~ Needle jet: 262AU ~ Needle W7 in top clip position http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/TXT70.specs.doc

In my opinion if it had been re coated which is more than plausible it wouldn't take much filing to reveal the numbers. Those numbers generally are punched quite deep and it would take a fair amount of "excessive" filing to make them illegible! Normally when frame numbers bike or car become illegible its for a reason. I sincerely hope it innocent!

Have you tried disconnecting the kill switch completely?

Certainly sounds fishy! I think I would be ringing the dealer tomorrow saying "wtf". Also good luck too

First off I would go back to the coil and make sure it's properly earthed. Check the earth wires are secure. You can also put a multimeter onto the wires that come fom the stator and check that your getting a voltage. If all the wires are properly secure and you are getting a voltage from the stator then you could possibly narrow it down to the CDI unit. Or it could also be the coil unit. I'm not sure exactly how to test the coil off the top of my head but I'm sure someone could pipe up and say how.

Is it ok to flush the gearbox with a bit of premix??

Just had a thought it could be something as simple as a bit of water in the fuel!