tazz229

Funny enough I watched Jims video on replacing them so should be fine there. I did have the head off last night and to be fair the O ring doesn't really look too round any more both sides are flattened if ya get what I mean. I've just ordered one so I'll get that fitted sharpish. I thought maybe by running it without the rad cap on I might of seen bubbles or a build up of pressure when I lightly covered the hole with my finger but there doesn't seem to be any. For the sake of £4 though I'll do it anyway. How they can justify £3.95 postage is a whole new topic!! Any idea what the different base gasket colors are in relation to size? Mines like a dark grey and very thin like paper!

I'll replace the O ring anyway then! I kinda dismissed the impact driver idea because the casings are so brittle and I'm the sort of person that will hit it too hard and smash a hole in it! I really don't trust myself with it. I have a habit of breaking things that cost a fortune to replace lol I'll drill them out trust me it's safer all round!

Sorted mate thank you I shall bear it in mind!

Just ordered mine cos at the mine mine is pulling 6amp and going a bit slow. Wish me luck

Cool no probs thank you kindly

Disconnect the cut off switch and try that. Take the plug out connect it to the plug cap, kick it over several times and make sure you have a constant spark every kick. If not..... Check the earth connections on the coil. Try a new plug. Check for any chaffing on th HT lead. Check for any chaffing on the wires coming from the stator. Sounds electrical but..... Strip the carb blast out all the jets and holes with either carb cleaner or compressed air, or both. If none of that works goto the shop and buy a hammer and a condom..... If it doesn't work hit it. If it still doesn't work f@$% it

Jon if that's the case then I hold my hands up and stand corrected mate. I've always understood that it was for heat expansion to stop the disk's from fracture. However your explanation also makes perfect sense too. Which now confuses the crap outta me cos my calipers certainly dont float and neither do my disks and low and behold I have a slightly spongey lever......... (Big sigh) Here we go with another problem to solve. Why don't my disks float?? Lol

Any good reputable "shoe fixit shop" kinda thing I would imagine. The part around the toes on mine are starting to peel away so I'll be taking mine to someone oon to have them re-glued..

Rich I've just read through this topic and I have a couple of questions just to clarify things. Exactly what oil did you change? The oil that goes in the gearbox or the oil that goes in the fuel tank? If it was the oil in the gearbox what did you put in and how much? If it was the oil in the fuel tank again what did you put in and how much? Do you understand that you have to mix 2 stroke oil with the fuel? If you tell us EXACTLY what you did then we can better help your problem.

Generally the idea behind floating disks is to simply allow for expansion when they get hot. On road bikes it's kinda essential given the stresses they're put under in heavy braking. But I don't see a massive "need" for it in a trials bike.... Someone else pipe up and shed some light here please do trials have float for the same reason?

The main jet is 70 according to this.. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/TX50%20technical%20bulletin.doc

Sealed up with some epoxy. An old jubilee clip cut to about 2inch long with a hole drilled in each end (because the metal is flexible) Rectifier bolted to one end the other end is bolted to the right hand earth bolt of the coil! It's nicely tucked up beside the coil in the top of the frame out the way. Ideal!!

Ok I've seen various topics and such like about overheating causing cumbustion pressure to force its way passed the O rings, and in turn blow the water pump seal. This I understand completely makes perfect sense! I've had the head off and both the O rings look fine. As it is at the moment I can't see the WP seal because the damn bolts are seized and need drilled out but I'll get to that... So when my rectifier packed up my bike did overheat I limped home as fast as I could in as high a gear as I could to get max airflow through the rad with the least amount of revs. However I noticed today that my oil was milk! So an educated guess tells me that's what's happened to me. So my questions are: 1. If the O rings were damaged would it be visible? 2. If the WP seal was damaged would it be visible without stripping it? 3. Can the WP seal be replaced without removing the engine casing? Much appreciation for any input Oh and what's the difference in the 0.1 0.3 and 0.5mm gaskets? Don't say thickness I know that does it really make much difference between the three?

Hmmmm...... Ok thank you I'm gonna look into that one! Out of interest how can loading the forks cause the brake to drag? Surely because the caliper is fixed to the lower leg and the wheel is also fixed to the lower leg nothing can move as long as its all bolted together properly no?? Forgive me I'm in no way saying your wrong, dont get me wrong, I just can't work that one out in my head lol

It is possible the stator could have failed sometimes you still see a spark when the plug is out, but there's not enough when it's under compression. I wouldnt imagine that would be case I'd definitely start with the simpler things first. But I suppose ya can't rule it out it does occasionally happen.

I was wondering what opulent meant

With that amount of fuel in the cylinder if it's as bad as you say then I would be suspicious of the floats in the carb maybe not shutting the supply off. If it were me personally, and you say theres a spark I would be pulling the carb off, strip it down and clean and check everything, see if that works.

Atleast I can sleep at night knowing it'll never blow from too many amps ha ha

There seems to be quite a lot of tidy looking 125's around for £500-£1000 which I think would b ideal. But then it depends on the boy I suppose... Has he ever ridden a bike? Has he ridden a geared bike? If the answer to either of those is no then I would be looking at something a little smaller with a semi auto box maybe.... If the answer is yes then I think (personally) a 125 would be quite ample as a starter. Anything bigger I think would chuck him off (depending on his strength etc). It's hard to say when all ya got to go on is a '12-13yr old'. I ya get what I mean.

The moral of this story...... CASH ON DELIVERY or CASH ON COLLECTION every time! By all means take a "small" PayPal deposit but if someone wants to buy something fom you it's up to THEM to pick it up or arrange collection/delivery (when it comes to something big and expensive like a bike or car for eg that is)

Unfortunately not no... Although it runs it seems to be quite slow, to the point where I can only just feel a draught coming fom it.

I had the same problem on mine and didn't worry about it because I thought a little 'float' was fine it's something I've encountered on various road and off road bikes over the years... However upon closer inspection, now I'm not sure the exact setup of yours, but on mine (2001 txt) the 8mm bolts are sat inside a cup, the cup then seats in the disk hole and bolts securely to the wheel. When I looked closer at mine because I was changing the bearings I noticed that the cups weren't seated in the properly in the disk and gave just enough movement to create the feel of 'float'. Once I'd reseated them all properly and re tightened the bolts the disk was the held securely to the wheel with no 'float' at all. So it may be worth having a closer look just in case.

Hmmmm good point! Although I'm not totally convinced that shaking it about causes pressure. (Feel free to correct me anyone) As far as I'm aware it's heat that causes the pressure to build up from the gasses it releases.... I could be wrong there though!

If I'm totally honest call it OCD if yo wish but in the event of me ever having one of those light set-ups it would seriously irritate the crap outta me if 2 or 3 weren't working

Tested my fan today and its at 2ohm which means its drawing 6amps. Seems an awfull lot for a small fan so, big up to the 'pinned topic' Fan motor replacement cos i reckon thats my next task!