shipdamite

std gearing is 11 42. this - or 10 42 - has me clutching a lot at slow speed stuff, so I thought lower the gearing and clutch less ....................... as suggested, this will make it snappier too, but the flywheel weight and the slow throttle should help here. hopefully. Thanks for reminding me about the chain

Hi All, 10 48 sprockets on a 250 pro .....................? 10 42 see's me clutching all the time, so I thought I would see what a 48 would be like (not fitted yet; its just been ordered).

Thank you all for your replies. I have very little personal experience of 2 stroke trials engines and what I have is limited to hearing a friends brace of bultacosauruses and his son's rtx, together with local trials. Other ty's I have heard all sound rattley but I am concerned that mine sounds worse than it did originally - I will come back to this in a minute. I tried Andy's suggestion, and hands on the cylinder and head did make a difference and I will find out some heat proof rubber block or pipe and install some as deadening; I seem to remember that suzuki x7's etc had this fitted as standard. I have also seen this done with aluminium tubing. Anyway - today saw me up early with the ty stripped down. basically, the new little end bearing had more of a rattle when shaken in the hand than the old one....... who was it that once said 'never trust new parts'? so, zipped back together using the old L.E.B and the bike sounds like it did before the new piston. hopefully, with another new L.E.B and Andy's method of sound deadening it should be quieter again. bimbled around the back yard on it hopefully getting a bit better on it - been spoilt by the ease of riding the gasser. thanks again for your input. Andrew

ear defenders dont fit under a crashie.

this ty is begining to really p*** me off. ok. running ok, clutch now sorted but having had a new piston and l.e.b put in it sounds noisier than the worn one. rattle rattle rattle. fine on idle then rattley when loaded. help before I torch the thing.

Thanks for that Andy; much appreciated. Interested on your comment regarding the use of semi-synth on these motors; more google time!

new clutch plates on order and clutch basket needing filing (thanks Andy) cylinder ok with a deglaze, but piston needs renewing (thanks other Andy). My latest question is, how to run in the piston when I have limited space and can't run the bike on the road etc? 3 heat cycles (running the bike on a stand at various rpm's [not at idle]) with cooling inbetween each cycle? mineral oil at 50:1 then onto fully synthetic once run in? Thanks.

it reminds me of an old band I loved called 'felt' I have just gone through 'lights at sea' on youtube..... best thing I have heard in AGES. thanks for the intro :-]

neat filming. what is the music? not showing on youtube? thanks

good work - even if the kicker is on the wrong side ;-] the elf is too thick in my opinion - good for the ktm though. putoline light gear oil for me in the gasser. I have an hr meter on my bike and do the gear oil every 10 hrs. I use 50:1 castrol power 1 2t oil from moto-oil.com good deals on bulk buys. have fun.

Hi Andy - thanks for that, much appreciated! cheers.

My gasser has been properly jealous over the last week; I have bought a bloody TY 175 that is proving to be my downfall. Bloody twinshock trials marlarky. still, having had enough of spannering the 1976 vintage ty, I rode the gasser round the yard and felt warm inside. I love my gas gas.

I use 400ml of putoline light gear oil in my 2005 pro. spot on. I was worried about the infamous clutch rattle too - worry not.

LHM makes for a groovy clutch action at the lever.

Hello, all of that stuff mentioned above has been done and its running like clockwork (albeit slightly rattley clockwork). After dropping the old atf out - which was really really really filthy - and putting in new, the clutch was dragging and I could not get neutral standing still. I did all of the adjustment/s and still no joy. Dumped the atf and used some semi synth 10w 40 halfrauds own (that was bought to do mrs shipdamites xl-a-saurus) and no change, so its not a lube issue as far as I can tell. All in all, it feels like two steps forward, 1 and 3/4's back. Given that no adjustments will help with the drag, do I work on the basis that the clutch is worn and needs renewing? cheers Andrew

good evening, well, the bike is running well! I called up the mighty 2 stroke genius boghopper350 who came over on his sumo'd ktm to help me out. The problem of bad running was fixed by cleaning the pilot (again [thanks lineaway]), renewing the o rings on the air and idle screws and realising that there was no gasket on the reed block assembly (this was achieved using grease just to get it running) I am so pleased that it is going .......... boghopper350 reassured me that the bike was good and that it will soon be up to scratch will little monetary outlay (but to keep in the back of my mind about rings / little end etc). so, the shopping list is currently: new air filter and cage carb rebuild kit (just in case) reed block gaskets fuel line and filter some atf cheers Andrew

Sounds like many of the TY's that are left, had a bit of a hard life, they do tend to get hammered in their later years if in the wrong hands. A good carb clean and set up may sort that out after you have the correct air filter fitted. Probably needs a set of rings or at most a rebore, if however it sounds okay and pulls well I'd leave it for now. The beauty of these is there are plenty of parts around and I think most parts are still available, get it running properly first then take it from there. Thank you - I am looking to order up a carb repair kit, air filter cage and air filter to get the beasty running right. The pilot circuit is plugged. That usually is the problem of no idle. The pilot jet needs cleaned and/or blown out. Should not need any parts $$ if it comes apart good. Thank you - I have cleaned out the carb a few times, but in anticipation of the repair kit, I will leave the carb bits soaking in petrol for a clean. * what appeard to be play on brake side rear wheel bearing, but was play between brake drum and wheel." I am not sure what you mean by this. The brake drum is attached to the wheel by spokes. If there is play between them, you might be able to correct with proper wheel trueing. Or have the wheel restrung if hub and rim are OK. If you mean the brake plate has movement inside the drum, that is probably OK if it is not too bad. If it is excessive, check if there is a missing spacer between the brake plate and the swingarm. Thank you - Yes, thats what I meant........ apologies for the lack of clarity on that one Thanks for your input!

hello all, I have just bought a ty 175 for twinshock trials with the local club. after some shed time and research time, the bike has the following faults: * autolube has been removed, leaving the autolube pipe unplugged and hanging off the carb * exhaust baffle had been squashed closed in a vice * a piece of sponge as an air filter * blow by on the piston when viewed from the exhaust port * although it did run ok, the bike refuses to idle unless the choke is on / idle screw removed and hole blocked with finger * what appeard to be play on brake side rear wheel bearing, but was play between brake drum and wheel. I have * plugged intake for autolube pipe * opened up baffle end and cleaned exhaust out with brake cleaner, then a blow torch. * temporarily used some oiled sump guard foam as a filter and cleaned out filter box, but will order up the correct filter and cage unless there is an alternative suggestion? * blow by - is any amount normal? the bike pulled ok when running and doesnt smoke much (at 50:1 premix) * guess the carb needs a rebuild kit to fix lean running issues? * having tried another brake drum, this appears to be normal as bearings are ok as far as I can tell? * with the oil tank gone, the area is covered by a triangle aluminium plate - what have you all done here? * the gearbox has atf in it; is this the best oil? Feeling a bit like I have bought a wrong' un at the moment! Thanks in advance for input. Andrew p.s the infamous kickstart and gearchange fixes have both been done (thats something at least)

the ty on a dc bike rack mounted to a corsa van was fine .................... from brighton to norfolk :-]

Thanks Andy!

all they can comment on is axle weight limits.

D.C said not to worry about nose limits! it was my paranoia that led me to beef up the tow bar arrangement...................

Thank you both for the confirmation. To-date, I have only used the rack twice for local journeys with a gas gas on the back and normally I use a bike trailer. Being a bit of a worry guts, I have just beefed up the towbar arrangement with a thick inner plate on the floor (instead of the 3 washers used by the towbar fitter) and an angle iron brace off the inner upright plate (the full width of the inner floor area) if that makes sense! belt and braces, but I don't want any trauma's. Thanks again.

Thank you - looking at a TY on friday and want to use the rack rather than the trailer!