shipdamite

Hi Ben, my 250 has a flywheel weight which works well at smoothing it all out and the slow action throttle helps too. I have only been riding a trials bike since I got the pro in september, so hopefully someone will be along to offer more qualified advice...............

well hello Trumpy...... ....... are you off to TDW IIII?

nice. I've just cleaned mine up after a day round my mates piece of land - is mine clean?, yes - but yours is i m m a c u l a t e

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=start%20you%20*******&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CDEQtwIwAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DcY1YndLmbXQ&ei=6YIeUaGRNqmC4gSX3IHIBQ&usg=AFQjCNH_qi_ucrUXgnCc3ZJWPVBxMnwKIA&bvm=bv.42553238,d.bGE

yeah, ''easy start'', as mentioned above. if it starts on this and you have put the carb back together ok, and you have yet to look at the reeds, then its looking like the fault is with glooped up reed block.................... ................... this bike has to bloody start!

or 4 ............... ............ seriously though, It has to be fuel.

J if it were me I would check out reed block up-turn and dump any fuel that has got into the crank heat up a good plug and maybe a squirt of easy start. failing that....... go for a beer ;-]

I havent been there, but plan to........... I have only had a trials bike since last september, so its still early days............. I have emailed the owner and he has explained the set up there - it sounds really good. if the bike was running when you last used it and you have been round the bike and checked it, then logic tells me that it isnt going because of the whole fueling issue...... reed block assembly isn't glued up as well is it?

if you have flooded it a few times, left fuel on with dodgy float level etc.................. it doesn't take much to really flood the thing so it wont start.............. well, that was our experience with the beta.

my mates bike 'peter the beta' was refusing to start - fuel? - check, spark? - check.............. scratch head time............ heated up the plug with a blow torch................ zilch, nada. too much fuel?? we ended up turning the bike upside down, with plug out, turning it over to empty the crank of petrol...................... right way round, plug in and ring-a-ding-ding! try it.

from ktm ben's 'dirty weekends' ;-] try out a few bikes....... I tried a beta but couldn't get on with a left kick start............ I am 4t enduro bike through and through but get on well with the gasser - first 2t in 25 years!

so the kick start clamps onto the spline rather than fitting onto it and being bolted into the spline like the txt pro? I remember way back in the day, that a spline went a bit tits up on a mates fizzy, so we cut the kickstart on the inner face of the clamp area so more leverage could be achieved when doing up the nut and bolt............. a toughened 'black' nut and bolt that wouldn't bend.......... seem to remember that we also packed it out a bit on the splines with panel pins as well.......... sounds a top bodge, but that repair hung on longer than the piston did that summer ;-]

felixdahousemouse? Lola and Ians mate from up the road? GWS with the back matey. I'd say gas gas txt pro 250 (only because I have just started trials and love the bike ;-] .....)

a 4t bike with a heavy springed flatside and a 'two cable' throttle would not rev out like that (i hope ;-].....) my gasser has done this when the other end of the throttle cable gets popped out of the carb top, so cable adjustment is helpful.............

use a syringe body and back bleed up to the master cylinder; make sure the play is right at the m/c or you won't get fluid through........ you can get the syringe body from a vets or a dentist if you ask nicely and explain what it is for. don't use car oil as this will mess the clutch plates up. I have had good results using putoline light gear oil, although understand that the castrol 10w 30 power 1 for 4t's would be good in the gearbox (this was from thier tech people, but i havent tried it yet) I am near to dereham!

is the clutch dot 4 or is it mineral oil? I used LHM oil (liquid hydraulic mineral [citroen]) in my pro clutch master cylinder.............. very good action with that.

p.s - you do repack all your new bearings with more grease right?

Zippy - thanks!............. ah, mrs shipdamite is a silversmith, so she is always melting and milling anything that isn't bolted down.......... so, not quite I that is the alchemist

p.s - Jimmie.............. hope that the knee is healing as it should be.

Hi Kev - the risers make a huge difference to the way I can turn the bike now............... when I first rode it, I really couldn't believe how 18mm rise could make such a difference. Its really worthwhile getting some aluminium and doing it. I tried them once on an enduro bike and whilst it improved standing, it messed up sitting down corners............... so, as you stand all the time on the trial bike, its all good - its so good to do a mod on the bike that makes such a difference (and which costs virtually nothing).............

Hi Jimmie - Thanks for that! the air bleeders were on the bike when I bought it last year................ But I would have fitted them anyhow; i have them on my dirtbikes............. saves taking out the screw to bleed..... well worth fitting in my opinion.

into these bar risers. The original 'long' bolts go into the inward (back) mounting holes and some 70mm bolts are then needed for the outward (front) mounting holes - I used button head bolts. The c/c holes in the aluminium bar are 40mm. Not the most beautiful creation, but that 18mm raise allows 6' 2'' me to turn the bike a lot tighter without getting tied up - an amazing improvement............ total monetary cost was £1 for two new bolts. The aluminum was in the shed already.

today, I turned this..................

I wouldn't dismiss what they are saying - the extra compression from a fresh piston and rings could put more on the bottom end of an engine. why not take the head and barrel off and see if there is up and down play on the rod? this will tell you if the big end has gone.

I spoke to gas gas uk and they said to use putoline light gear oil.