totty79

Tank sealing always seems to get mixed feedback, personally having had two tank liners fail, one POR15 and one Petseal I'd only line as a last resort. The POR15 one was prepared to the letter of the instructions, it was a steel tank with several pin holes - I even took a blow torch to it sacrificing the paint to make sure there was no damp in the tanks seam. It was fine for months then one tank of BP Ultimate and it sprung a leak, I now also avoid that fuel.

The carb hasn't been cleaned yet. I think it's 327cc and it does look like an enrichment rather than a choke. I've avoided using 'super' fuel after I had leaks on two bikes on their first tank of BP Ultimate - it ate through the liner on one tank and the fuel tap seals on another - I might chance another brand if the other tips don't work. toothandnail, I have resorted to a spray of easy start (ether) in the airbox and a few kicks later it runs so the symptoms match.

The fuel is turned off when it's parked, the tap did not leak last time I took the tank off. It has ran poorly on startup on several occasions needing some throttle to clear it so that it would rev cleanly. I'll drain the carb before I do anything else to see what's in there. On my only other 2 stroke (mini motto) I have had problems with oil build up in the carb as it has no tap -but has a tiny tank that easily drained. I haven't used it for years now anyway.

It's all good fun - once you know the quirks. I've got some bits sussed - this bike does not seem to like any throttle, neither did my VFR, my monkey bike needs a blip during the kick, my CB550 needs a late blip after it's fired.

I had assumed that it wasn't a technique issue since I can start it so easily when it hasn't been standing, so I was expecting a mechanical problem - I'll be very happy to be proved wrong as I think I'm now on top of the other mechanical issues. I'll leave it until the weekend to try the suggested techniques as I attempted to start it this morning. The float bowl draining I understand but what is the purpose of the various rolling/rocking techniques? I'm just thinking that if I understand the aim I'm more likely to get the technique right, I do take it to TDC on the kick start as I've done on all singles. I allow time for the float bowl to fill before attempting to start but it might not be long enough. I also shake the bike before tuning the fuel on as I have in the past on mini motos had issues with the premix settling. Thanks for offering to pop over Lester, I might take you up on that if the techniques don't work for me.

Hi, The bike is a 1999 321. If it has ran within the last 24 hours it typically starts 1st or 2nd kick, if it's left a week it's really difficult to start - anything from 20+ kicks to giving in after 30 mins and trying again the next day. On the two occasions when I have given in and tried the next day it then started with just a handful of kicks. The lying it on the floor trick that I've read elsewhere doesn't appear to help. I'm not aware of any running problems or noises once it's started, I'm inexperienced with trails and 2 strokes in general but to me it appears to run very nicely. Once it has ran for a few seconds it can be shut off and restarted easily, typically with just one kick. I've serviced it recently - cleaned air filter, replaced oil, coolant, brake fluid, clutch fluid and spark plug - This made no difference. I have no history on the bike. As I'm clueless with 2 stroke troubleshooting I'd like some guidance on the possible causes before I start taking anything apart. Thanks Allan

You need a diagnosis, without that any advice will be flawed. Go back to your GP repeatedly if required and pressure them into giving you an appropriate referral. For years I was fobbed off as it being growing pains until I hit 19 when it was diagnosed with what's commonly called a bucket handle tear in one knee and suspected matching injury in the other. I was then advised against surgery to inspect/repair and in the last 15 years whilst I still have some pain I've learnt to live with it, I'm aware of what aggravates it and able to avoid it, the joints used to lock but haven't for years as I now recognise the pre locking sensation. I'm only a trials beginner but my knees are yet to be a problem when riding.

Search for Palm saver, they work quite well.

Check the DVLA website but IIRC you need to send in a v62 form https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/209995/v62.pdf

Checking that the chassis and engine numbers haven't been tampered with is generally a good starting point.

Today I discovered why the front brake lever clicked occasionally - a very mangled circlip fell out. I also replaced the front caliper as someone had butchered two pistons jamming them in the old one. You've got to love previous owners bodges to brakes.

Hi biggegg, sorry can't help with the ty, but just to put a forum name to a face I'm the guy with the gas gas 321 from earlier today.

Yes it is, the stickers on it say 321 contact txt.

Is the later 2000 to 2002 separate seat and mudguard a direct or near direct fit? Mines got multiple breaks, I've been keeping a look out for a cheap replacement and there are a lot more 2 piece ones around.

What's your budget? I'm also new to this but it's clear that brand recommendations should change with the age of the bike. e.g. pre 'Pro' (2004?) Gas Gas bikes have a reputation for being more robust, but in my experience parts availability is very poor - one dealer has recommended Beta's to me for parts availability reasons.

I've had a few issues with this and had the most luck with a vacuum bleeder. Hold a vacuum on the bleed nipple and also operate the brake lever. Keeping an eye on the fluid as it can drop quickly this way. Leakage round the nipple threads hasn't been a problem on any of my other cars/bikes but on my hebo calipers it was bad enough to need to put some PTFE tape on them.

I'm also a beginner, 34 so past the bouncing years and suffering from several old injuries but far from decrepit. I bought a mesh top thing with elbow, forearm and shoulder pads, back protector and chest plates. Movement wasn't as restricted as it looked and although I looked like a gimp I could live with it, the problem was overheating and it was only 12C. I'm now down to just knee and hip armour in a pair of kevlar lined road bike trousers. I had my first decent fall on Friday (flipped it on a hill and landed in rocks under bike) and I'm considering putting the armour back on, at least briefly for first attempts at things.

I'm surprised the trials list of coaches is so much smaller than the others. It may be a smaller sport but it's often considered to be more technical. Anyway I think I'm sorted now as I've been PM'd the number of the guy that runs sessions at Warden Law. Thanks guys.

Is this it? http://www.acu.org.uk/events/august-2013/north-eastern-centre/trials/hope-farm-longframlington-northland-ne65-7xr-acu38866.aspx

I've mostly ridden by myself. Wobblenorbed came through and helped me prepare for a trial, which was a massive help but the rear tyre coming off the rim cut us short and also meant I missed the trial. I've been to three trials as a spectator and I've got another thread on what techniques to start with. I don't get many free weekends and I've missed the light nights so I'm just looking to speed up my progress. The plan was to fit in 4 or 5 practise sessions then a couple of trials by June - if I liked it after that sort out transport and upgrade to a better bike, if not use the garage space for another road bike.

It'd be less painful to open my wallet and pay for the lessons than to keep getting them for free :-)

Is anyone offering training suitable for beginners in the north east? I asked at Warden Law and they said someone used to do lessons there but they haven't seen them for ages. I'm just looking to speed up my progress since I've missed the summer with bike faults. I've got about 6 hours experience on a trials bike so I'm a total novice. (I'll hopefully get a few more hours tomorrow at Warden Law, if I'm not too stiff after Fridays fall - I hesitated twice, on and off the throttle when I realised I had no idea what was over a hill I was half way up, flipped it and didn't land too well.)

If it's a brief lock that clicks on release it could be trigger finger. http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Trigger-finger/Pages/Introduction.aspx I have this problem with both thumbs all the time and occasionally other fingers. The safest thing to do would be to get used to using two fingers on the clutch.

If the forks are the same as my 99 321 then the allen bolts aren't involved in changing a spacer, do you have a pic? See my recent thread regarding a similar problem that turned out to be a broken spring. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/46109-1999-321-fork-cap-removal-sag-preload/

The springs have finally arrived