totty79

I'd say £600 to £1200 depending on condition. I paid £650 for my '99 TXT 321.

Warden Law isn't far from you - just past Sunderland.

I wear kevlar lined combats. They're a strange shiny material and look crap but they are really tear and abrasion resistant, water repellent (you'll get wet but they won't soak it up) and have both knee and hip armour. Have a look in the road bike gear on ebay, I paid £20 inc postage.

Try a sealant like goop or slime. My rear wheel has corrosion from someone using silicone in it, after half a bottle of goop it's held 4psi for 6 months.

I also think they'll be completely different, but I might see if I can find part numbers or dimensions to compare. The old Honda c70 in the gallery would be a novel alternative, plenty of semi auto motors around for them.

I removed 2 clutch springs last night, on a very brief test outside of the garage there was no slipping in 4th or 5th. I'll test it out properly at Warden Law over the weekend.

My carpel tunnels are apparently OK, but it could still be worth a try, using a mouse and keyboard designed for carpel tunnel sufferers has helped. Lever position could also be a factor, before the trail I moved them from being very steep angled like \ to being nearer horizontal. This was in an effort to stop me weighting the bars, a bad habit from years of road riding - I'm comfortable with the back end sliding but like the front planted. Before this trial (and therefore before this change) My hands hadn't been this much of a problem on this bike, it's normally only the cable clutch on my CB550 that's a problem.

I've had another look at the rekluse clutch and it would be ideal but no trials models are listed. Has anyone come across anything similar for trials bikes? Are there any clutch lightening kits like the LiPSE out there for other brands of bike? Do any other brands use this diaphragm style spring or are they all multiple coil springs? (custom wound coil springs are fairly cheap to have made if removing a pair causes slip, but something like the LiPSE is more appealing than experimenting with springs myself.) The tendons to the two fingers I used on the clutch on the 9th are still inflamed, I need to work on reducing clutch usage before I can risk competing again. I plan to try my 321 with a pair of springs removed next weekend - it already has what I'd consider to be a light clutch so I'm surprised it's causing this much of a problem, then again using a mouse is just as bad.

The consensus seems to be lighten clutch, detune bike, change gearing, change technique. When it comes to choice of bike it doesn't look so easy as recommendations cover quite a range, I guess I need to try some. I'll also look into the suggested remedies. I'm reluctant to spend much more time or money on my current bike as I'd like something lighter. I've just scuffed up the rear pads and disk and checked the postons move freely. If I get time I might also remove two clutch springs before my next ride.

Nice thought, but I've never ridden a bike with them so I don't know how it would feel, I do use a foam cover on the clutch lever on two of my bikes.

I hadn't heard of Rekluse, interesting reading and I'm sure it would help. I've read a few similar comments on 300's, I'm inclined to rule out a 250 but keep a 300 as an option. With more practise I may get away with reduced clutch usage on a 300, I've also considered a switchable Rev limiter as a safeguard. DRs have advised me to use anti inflammatories, I prefer the physio advice of stretch and ice, but exercising the finger extending muscles has provided some relief and left my hands less clenched at rest.

Thanks for the replies. I've also had a 125 recommended elsewhere, as they're quite common I might be able to get a go on one. I don't ride anything that you need to launch at. I did reduce the final drive ratio slightly to 10/42 but I could go much further. My rear brake is very weak so fine control of it is difficult, I need to fix that then I'll give it a try. I also find the tiny pedal and restrictive boot lead to me only using it on descents. I've played with the idle several times to get a balance between crawling speed and ease of stalling, but I haven't involved the back brake. I'm yet to need 5th or 6th gear so lighter springs may work for me. I've also seen guides to removing a pair, is that advisable?

I've seen loads of these threads and didn't want to start another but after reading them I didn't find an answer as my requirements are a bit unusual. I have tendon issues in my hands that cause pain and once inflamed can cause trigger finger. This can make clutch control less precise than it could be, but provided I don't ride too frequently or have to work the clutch excessively it's manageable. Although it was only a minor inconvenience on the day my left hand has not yet fully recovered from last Sunday so I've decided not to ride today. I've only done one trial so perhaps I need more bike time before I can make an informed decision on what bike to buy next but what I think I need is a docile slightly lazy to rev motor that's difficult to stall, has loads of off idle torque and a light clutch. (Although they're fun I've never got on with peaky motors in any bike) I have those characteristics already in my 99 Gas Gas 321, but it's heavy and it has an excess of power once the revs rise. If I use 1st gear the revs have to rise at times and it's difficult to be smooth without slipping the clutch but some of this might be nerves after a couple of crashes, if I use 2nd I have better control and results but I need to use the clutch more on the tightest bits. From what I've read about newer bikes a 200 is the best fit, possibly with a flywheel weight. 250's seem to be considered peaky, 300's are similar to what I already have but less docile, 125's are often described as needing clutch work. I expect to only ever ride the easy route. Budget up to £2500 but I don't want to pay more than I need to, if a £1500 bike and a £2500 bike have the same weight and engine characteristics I'd take the £1500 one. I'm reluctant to pay extra for cosmetics and minor mechanical/material upgrades that I won't notice. Does any of this make sense? Do you agree that a 200 would be best? Do bikes get lighter year on year or is there an age range or particular model I should look for? Is an upgrade of obvious benefit or should I stick with the 321 for longer? Anything else I should consider?

Thanks for the pics. I'm pleased that he managed to catch me feet up in 2 out of 3 pics, that can't have been easy :-)

The easier the better, it's going to be my first trial.

Read only software would be adequate for troubleshooting and would avoid any warranty impact.

It doesn't appear to be the same non runner, fork lowers are a different colour. It's on my watch list, it's a long drive from here with bruised ribs but if the price is right. ....

Diy work on ecu's is simple, dealers are only needed for it due to manufacturers charging a fortune for cables and software. Everything should have a standard diagnostic port as a minimum as cars have had for years. I was tempted by the non runner but 1600 was my limit, it's a gamble after all so you've got be happy with the odds.

I had the same problem with fork springs on a 99 bike, ended up having them made. Parts availability for gas gas bikes of this age seems to be very poor, I'm used to 70s Honda's which are much easier to get parts for.

I don't think direct injection has any greater electrical requirements than standard injection if a mechanical high pressure pump is used. I don't know the ratio between mechanical and electrical pumps out there but the Vauxhall 2.2 direct engines definitely use a mechanical high pressure pump - the warranty argument fits this example as the first generation of pumps and regulators on these engines were mostly replaced under warranty. DI addresses the fuel loss out the exhaust but the lubrication system still needs to be addressed.

There are several types of rim, on most the adjuster is where the spoke meets the rim, on others like yours they are part way along the spoke. Your version does not rely on a tape inside the rim for sealing as the spokes do not go through it.

I made frankenfender v3, this version has 13 rivets and 5 strips of metal. v1 was a previous owners fix with cable ties. v2 was my plastic welding which looked the best and some of it survives - an unplanned attempt at a floater turn when I ran out of space broke two welds. Until I find out if the later 2 piece seat and mudguard fits this will have to do.

I feel a right idiot owning up to this. It was user error, what I thought was choke on was just taking up the slack - lever needs to be vertical for on! It was obvious as I was taking the choke plunger out the carb. Started 1st kick when the carb was refitted. Carb very clean inside, some jet heads damaged from someone over tightening them (common theme on this bike) but otherwise ok.

You can get starter fluid with lube, but I'd still consider it a last resort. Any idea where I can find the correct float level? (assuming it's still on the standard carb)