marky g

Dude, I know what your saying.... Ride that easy route and enjoy it for what it is...a good days sport...

Well said T-SHOCK 250, I couldn't agree more. My bike is an 2001 model and I've bought it S/Hand, the dealer said it's probanly only done about 9 months work due to the fact the owner from new also rode pre65 and with Foot and Mouth outbreak it ain't done allot. The problems I found with the bike were: Flywheel cover holed (for some time for a guess) lots of rust inside, luckly it cleaned up ok,....lazy guy couldn't be bothered to change the cover and just rode it round!! Rear wheel axle stuck too, but some tapping got this one free, note no grease or nothing on the shaft...rubbed it up and greased it. Swinging arm pivot shaft also stuck ...again came out after about 30 mins of tapping and swearing at it, again no grease on it...rubbed it up and greased again. Now the front axle is stuck in In the past I've been lucky enough to own 4 new trails bikes and all of them I've done as you said, greased all the axle shafts up and genrally kept on top of things from new.......never used to have any breakdowns at the trails. I swear when you see some guys at the trail kicking and swearing at there bikes cause it's broke on them, it's mostly there own fault for not doing proper maintenance in the first place. SHERPA, give me a steel shaft any day over alloy, I thought about this only this evening when I was taking the front wheel out my old TY250....no problem with the steel axle in the yam

A tip a fitter gave me at work years ago for the removel of broken studs. Centre pop the stud first, if it's a 8mm stud your dealing with start off with a small bit....say 4mm...now heres the key..... only drill into the stud 5mm, then use a 7.5mm bit and just go down to the 5mm, then go back to the 4mm bit and repeat the process untill you reach the end of the stud. This way you dont never go off center, when you finished drilling get a pair of narrow plaires and just pull at the thread, it should just pull out like a spring Worked for me twice so far

Got the CJB one for xmas, good stuff if a little long at 3hrs.

Mick Andrews is going to ride the proto 250 4/stroke in this years SSDT, Reported in TMX today...

Thought about dropping the forks out, I'll give the airgun a go before I try that...so far the allen socket in the 'axle' is still a good un, thats the way I want to keep it. I find thats the only thing wrong with light alloy axles and shafts that are left to the great outdoors, they can get stuck in very quickly. If I mess the alloy one up I'll get a steel one turned down at work. Going to leave the job for a couple of weeks as I've got a centre group trail on the 25th Jan (i was going to change the tyre, but It'll keep) Thanks for all the advice guys

Hey Mr Beta UK, of course I knew you were taking the micky Dude, when you've got a wife and four kids to support I REALLY need to look after the pennys superflytx270: Well said that man,I tend to spend my money on me bikes, not the clothes on my back Bikespace: Agree on the boots thing, when I was trailing years ago I had a pair of Alpinestar 'no stop' boots, they were great! lasted about 4 years before the leather started to rot. I've now got a pair of Forma boots, not as good as me old No Stops but they'll do the job

Yes Kinell I have undone the pinch bolts. Alan, good tip with the airgun, we use them @ work and I'll "borrow one" for the weekend....just hope the alloy 10mm Allen slot in the end of the spindle can take it! Mark

Cheers fatbikedude, I never thought about MTB, I'll buy a mag ASAP and check there kit out, I'll leave all the latest fashion to BETA UK to buy the guy must like being ripped

My front wheel spindel is seized in solid, the Sherco spindles are alloy and I guess the last owner hasn't greased it!. I've snapped one 10mm Allen key off already!, it looks like the spindel is probably stuck in the inner race of the wheel bearings, I've used the hot air gun to no affect and I've given the axle/bearings a good soak in releasing oil but still stuck fast!!. Any tips?? mark

oh, sounds like I must be a tight a*** then

A pair of pants here in the UK are priced at around

Thanks for the pics Don T, I would have to agree with ISHY and say if I had the option I would pay the extra to have the better looking back mudguard and tail pipe thats in that proto bike pic I posted before. Here's another pic I've found of the 'proto' model...looks very nice in this form Seeing as Scorpa are using Yamaha engines, what would there option be for a larger capcity engine?? do they do a TTR 250 OR 200 cc engine?. I know that weight might be an issue with a bigger lump, I've got nothing but praise for the Yamaha engine, I've had two XT 500's and an XT 550 all of them have had super strong motors. Marky

Hi Kevin, Not sure how much more fuel the metal tank holds, but enough to do a large 'road trail' in one go and the tank size does not look out of place. I don't even know if there a Genuine part (I presume so) I will fit mine when it comes and post a decent pic of it. Here's one on an old TYR of mine

Cheers Guys, but I've contacted GasGasmonkey today and my cheque is on it's way to him as I write Might be interested in any other parts you might have, rear wheel with a good rim?? my rear rim has got some seroius rot under the rim tape Could do with an airbox if anyones got one too? click on my name and send me a message if there's anything going. Thanks once again guys (isn't the internet just great

Great stuff Wayne, thank you sir

I think my first pics must be the protos,I went into BVM over the xmas break and they had a couple of 125's in stock. They had thick black seat's on them and the back mudguard looked different to the ones in my first pics. John B said in his last post that his 125 had a tube'd back tyre. Here's the latest pic off the Scorpa website (without the seat on), plus the website link. http://www.scorpa.fr/english/sy_250/TYS_125_en.html

Cheers for the info ND....nice one

Hi GasGasmonkey, Im interested in the Tank, tried the mobile number you gave twice but got the answerphone both times. I'll try again Wednsday or failing that could you mail me? Cheers mate P.S Where are you??

Can't find the info on the net for the float height setting and how to check it, I've downloaded all the stuff off the Sherco website too. The carb manual shows a carb stripdown but no info on float height measurement I would like to know the standard main jet size and the pilot jet size if anybody knows them. Cheers From sunny Shropshire

Point taken ND, as the old saying goes "a good big un beats a good little un". I don't want to dismiss it untill I've rode it a 250cc bike would be more appealing though. I do like the idea of air cooling and the 'proven' Yamaha engine...I would have a guess that the 'new breed' of bikes over 250cc will be water cooled and be as tricked out as they get (see expensive). Maybe the 160cc version of the Scorpa will out power and old TLR lump I'll have to wait and see for the chance to grab a go on one.

Would like to get hold of the larger steel petrol tank Is there still any out there?? cheers mark

What does the 160cc kit contain & how much does it cost? Are they still reliable with the big bore kit? I've got a bit of a soft spot for the 4/st bikes, I used to have a couple of TLR Hondas, at that time I used to think they were a bit gutless....but that was when I first started riding trails. Now I'm knocking on for 40 the little yam engine'd bike is looking very attractive

Whats the feed back from the guys riding the Yam engine'd bike then? good, bad, indifferent?.

Never had a problem with my 2.5, I've not had it that long but it ain't stuck yet. A Beta TR34 I once owned was a pain for this, I found that if I put it in 3 gear, pull the plug cap off and kick away untill it freed itself off (three or four kicks used to do it)