crazybond700

I quess a tire chord must fit in a tube type. but I am not sure. Its basicly a chord made of some rubber, with and valve in it. Maybe the rim is different, because of course the sides must not leak air aswell.

Quess you already figured it out, but the only possble place seems the kickstart axle yeah. The bearinglike thingie goed on the clutch cilinder, the other ring with the edge goes on top of the clutch, than put it back together. Lay it down to prefent fingers of the clutch sitting wrong, make sure waterpump axle is sitting right, and make sure you dont drop the clutch bearingring. Also prefent clutch oil from getting into your engine. There should probably be mineral oil in the clutch system, but you dont want to have dot in your engine oil. Measurements you can take: Fingers to clutch hight Clutch pack thickness. Some things that could cause clutch drag: Wrong adjustment of master cilinder Air in system Clutch pack too thick (see e.g. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=904203)

tubeless tyre will also work with a tube, no problem. The rim is made tubeless with a special cord inside the rim. If you take that out (if its in there) and place a innentube it will work fine.

Could be, difficult so say from a screen. It could also just be ''normal'', they all make some sound, the one more than the other. Take this for granted... Those outer bearings are not that expensive I think, so replacing them is never wrong. However the question stays, why did they go bad? They can be damaged because of to much movement of the clutch because of ..... a moving shaft.... Replacing the inner one is not that much of a trouble if you got mechanical skills. The engine has to be taken out en spitted, which goed very easaly. But you do need to diss an re asemble the gearbox.

Yes, wont be a problem. Newer plastics will be!

On the older models (till 2008) it is possible without removing the head. (try always to keep the head on the cylinder). Takes a little effort but can be done.

First feel the clutch basket, after that remove it an check the bearings, (dont damage the allen bolt with the hole), feel the shaft for play, they all have a little bit play, so dont worry too fast. Be carefull with placing the side pannel again, you need to lay the bike down and watch out for the bearing on the clutch piston.

Might be the bearings inside the clutch (2), or the big bearing behind the clutch (gearbox side).

Yeah, thats my thaught too! from 2007 onwards they have this ''shaped'' fender, before they had the flat ones. So you probably want a 2007> fender <2011

I am quite sure it fits. I had the newer style (non flat one) fender on a 2007 bike (black frame) http://www.splatshop.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/7f254dafd663d43ed1e42602385ef42d/g/b/gbt935002808.jpg

I think the rule is good for younger riders. They get more opertunity to follow up to become the best riders, because technique becomes more important instead of more extreme jumps etc. How big do the stones and gaps need to be. Was judge at the european championship ride in the Netherlands, ans saw a big gap between the five best and the rest. Some of the youth riders couldn't make the really big jumps etc but their technique was good. In the end I dont really think it will work on the long run, because people will become used on the new way, and extremes become even bigger again. Just like the reducement on engine displacement with the MotoGP for example. Corner speed becaumes even faster making it more dangerous again.