crazybond700

Also take a look at youtube https://www.youtube.com/user/GASGASinfo

Kickstart only takes the piston around a few times at most probably? Pushing it makes it go around more often and it will be more likely it fires.

Floats: It state ''above/up'' in spanish or italian on it ''Alto'' like altitude--> high = up

Well, it also states to run 1:50 2stroke mixed gas...

Even if the key would be wrong, it should still fire somewhat imo. And it cannot really run fine. Since you mentioned it was a starting problem I dont think this is it.

Will work, but not on the long run. And it depends on the kind of sticker. But those silencers dont get that hot I always have one or two on the inside to check if the tire hits the silencer. And one on the silencer itself, which is there now for a year or so.

Nice bike! There are a lot of things to look after, but offcoarse you should ride it first! When you are tired take a look at: https://www.youtube.com/user/GASGASinfo

Dont know if a topic like this already exist but I need some stuff which I can not find. I though a general topic for this will be of use. I want to buy new frame guards, for gg pro 2008 (old model frame), like the jt7 ones but i can not find those. I dont like the trickbits/jitsie plastic looking ones with also those thingies stickout out for the chain I quess. http://www.lewisportusa.com/Images/jt7/jt7cf_gg_frameprot.jpg

If you check without trottle cable? Than you can figure out if its the cable or the carb. Imo greasing (modern) cables is never necessary or good...

Nice looking bike! I cant find the partnumber in my program, its not in the sticker kit

Other starting problems could be (in normal cases, when it runs fine for the rest) kickstart gear wrongly timed, wrong start jet etc. Normally when coils etc fail they do it other way arround, so the bike does fire and start, but after a small period it stops, until everything cooled down again and same cycle. I assume the plug comes out really wet after some kicking?

Then I would remove the clip, and use an small socket (long) to push it out in total. Your need to replace them anyways..

Try sticking to the ''maintance key'' when solving problems. Check spark, gas, compression... By doing al sorts of things all together its really hard to find and thus solve your problem. You mention the bike getting dificult to start, what does it when it start? runs fine?

Otherwise a thank is weldable (do water it first though!)

You are going to replace shaft, and the seals, so might replace the full kit including the impellor. (at least my advice is replace all parts (normally the impellor can be an exeption)) You did notice it has reverse thread, maybe older owner didn't? Do you have it ouf of its housing allready? First take the springclip out. I had it stuck once, but putting a socket bit in the pump and pressing it did the job for me. Can explain everything but this does it too good, so i dont! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqQvL23bgs

Same thing with the older bikes (+-95) those are also less reliable etc I think. But there were some problems, but not problems that cant be fixed, and its a OLD bike already now!

Actually there was a pictures yesterday or so. But dont know what it was.

Yeah, it most of the time has some yeah, also because the play can be caused by multiple bearings. (arms both arms or in the shock absorber under part) I try to keep track of the play, when it becomes worse its time to replace I quess. I do them from time to time, when I am busy with the bike and feel like having to replace them, but I cant really tell an exaxt number or something.

+filter (well basicly clean everything) but you allready did. Burn middle mufler and end damper out and replace material. I use a heat torch, and some air from the compressor together, when its hot enough remove the heatsource and only use air. It will burn nice and clean without burning trough the metal. Frontpipe, and middle mufler can be done this way. Need some repainting after probably though. Replace the endmufler material, and it will run probably like never before. Lots of people only think about intake filter, but a 2 stroke also need to be able to breath out.

Hi, welcome. A you obviously know the 2002 (first) pro arent know for reliability and some adjustments were made in the later models. And although the pro engine is a great engine to ride, it does (still) have points you need to look after (more than normal bikes imo). Since you allready bought it, i would say test it and ride it like its supposed to. You can use the search on this topic to find out the specific problems with the first model range, but preventing would cost a lot i guess. Newer engine do break down sometimes aswel. Dont ride it if you dont want to spend money from time to time to maintain and repair the engine... For some parts it they break you can only buy the updated version, so that wont be a problem (only sometimes you need to replace more bit probably to make it fit like the newer kickstart axle and gear) Some general inspections you should do on every pro from time to time, e.g.: Engine oil for water (waterpump leak/shaft wear), and replace of coarse quite often Play on suspension (rear link system) Clutch on wear, and check bearings and clutchfinger distance (from clutch to fingers) and see if it is positioned well Kickstarter system does break down (especially when used wrongly)

Good to hear it works fine again! Save some money for a ultrasonic cleaner, once you have one you dont know how you could have done without... /and you will also learn the cleaner can never be big enough, so you will buy a bigger one

Clean carb as first step is never wrong of coarse. Does it have problems with hills aswel?

Great you found the problem. And its true the tolorances on those engines are quite high...

Lot of people will regognice this bike position, lol. Did some checking, cleaning and replacing, after ride it for two days! Great trials weather here now, not to hot, great underground and grip

If it doesn't leak it should be enough right?