heffergm

Some fun this morning. Excuse the overly dramatic music, I'm too lazy/busy to not use gopro templates.

I'm still lost as to where you guys are coming up with these recommended mixture values. My manual says 1.5% on full synth, 4% on mineral. That translates to 66:1 and 25:1 respectively. I'll be running 66:1 from now on.

FWIW, I'm an enduro rider switching to do some trials. I'll suddenly look like a bit of a clod, but aside from some Sidi trials boots for better feel, all my gear is basically staying the same: full face helmet, Fox integrated body armor, Klim armored spandex under my normal Klim pants. Like I said, I look a bit of a clod, but I've never had issues seeing with a full face and I like a Snell certified lid on my mellon. I've had enough nasty crashes to appreciate a good helmet. Same with the armor. It gives me incentive to stay in good shape.

So I've never ridden a trials bike with bark busters on it, but FWIW, every enduro rider (me included) in New England runs bark busters in the woods. I have yet to hear of any injury that wouldn't still have happened wether they were there or not. And if you're riding in tight woods at a pace, you're definitely better off with them.

I'd love to see a KTM trials bike... would mean I'd have a great dealer right down the road. But my guess is they're just promoting the brand in general, rather than pseudo teasing a trials bike offering.

Well then... something to look forward to in my retirement I guess.

I'm curious how many hours people are going on pistons in general (specifically, I'm on a 300 2t). I come from the enduro world, and two strokes typically go 60-80 hours on a piston. I'm assuming, and have been told, that trials bikes will go quite a bit longer (obviously we're generally not tearing around while on the pipe 80% of the time), but I'm not sure what 'quite a lot' amounts to. Just curious...

From what I can tell based on the 5 adjustment ranges in the manual, just flipping the tophats around (small end towards the motor) without changing anything else is kind of like a setting 2.5. The clutch engagement does feel noticeably softer to me, which I'm not sure I like, but on the flip (haha) side, the lever effort is less, which helps with my achy hands, so I think I'll leave well enough alone.

So I pulled the clutch apart just to have a peek, and everything is as I'd expect. Does anyone know what order the washers (there are three of them, one with roller bearings, one the same size in the middle, and one slightly smaller one) go? They got stuck when I pulled the pressure plate off and fell into the basket. I think the roller bearing washer goes first, closest to the motor, but wanted to double check. I flipped the top hats around, more because I was in there than anything else...

New bike, still trying to figure out if this is 'normal'. Clutch drags a lot. With the lever adjusted most of the way out, it's easy enough to control once it's in gear, but shifting is pretty rough especially at a standstill because of all the clutch drag. It's definitely better once warmed up, but not great. As I'm new to trials bikes in general, and Beta, I'm wondering if this is normal. I've changed the trans oil (used motorcycle specific 10w40 as requested in the manual) and bled the clutch, neither of which had any impact on things. The last bike I had that had clutch drag this bad I put heavier clutch springs in, which made a noticeable improvement. I'm not thrilled with the lever effort on the beta now, so going with heavier springs doesn't sound great.

He means relax

Cool. Was just curious. I'm just trying to find a baseline and stick with it. This first batch I erred WAAAY on the caution side. I'll slide back towards 80:1.

I'm going to start riding some NETA events, and I'm supposed to run a number plate with name/class/line/etc. on it. My beta has a front light/plate space, but it's pretty small. Is there somewhere I can get something? I'm not sure where/how people typically construct their front plates (sorry, I've only ever had to deal with numbers for NETRA events before).

So aside from my slightly draggy clutch, my other issue is lever effort. I've got all kinds of tendon issues which makes one finger tough enough, but the evo seems a little heavier than most. From what I gather, there are 5 clutch settings, all of which involve some different clutch fibers or pressure plates. I was curious if anyone had just flipped the tophats and not changed any fibers.

I'm slightly confused where 80:1 came from. My manual says 1.5% on synthetic, 4% on mineral.

I'm thinking it might be easier to just buy a new cap and hex adjuster, grease them when they show up, and replace the old pair. Do you happen to have a parts guy/website you/other's commonly use for Beta parts?

70/1 is ~ 1.5% if I'm not mistaken. I ended up going ahead and mixing at ~4% for this batch... didn't want to under do it, but I guess it's going to be super over oiled. Ah well.

Crap. Ok, thanks.

So my 13 evo 300 has a purple hex cap on the left fork leg. It doesn't move. My assumption is that it's seized and this is the preload adjuster, but I'm having a hard time telling from the manual. Help!

I just bought my first two stroke in a million years, and I'm not quite sure what ratio to mix my fuel. The bike is a '13 Evo 300 2T, and the manual recommends 1.5% if running synthetic premix, 4% if running mineral. I'm using a semi-synth because I have it around (it's motorex), so I'm not sure how to mix... maybe split the difference?

Hi folks, I recently got the trials bug, and I'm looking to get my first bike. I've come across a 2010 Sherco 250, asking $4000. Was looking for any input on the price and what I should be looking at specifically if I go to check this particular bike out. Thanks!