heffergm

2013

I don't really have access to that gear oil here. But I just follow the manual as far as gearbox oil goes, which is for 10w40. I'm running Motul Transoil 10w40 at the moment, and it behaves exactly like everything else I've tried. I guess I'll pull the plates out again. I looked at them once before, and they didn't look that bad in terms of glue and finish, but perhaps my eyes deceive me.

Email me? heffergm _at_ gmail.com

... this thing is killing me. I've finally got the clutch working reasonably well, but when the gearbox gets hot, like riding a loop in an event, the clutch drag gets so horrible that I can't roll the bike back with the clutch in and the bike in gear. Shifting up through the box is a total disaster. If an event was me carrying my bike from one section to the next, life would be grand, but since I have to actually shift the damn thing out of 1st now and then and ride the loop, I'm getting pretty annoyed.

I'm a recent trials convert as well. If you're used to riding Enduro bikes like I have been, toss out all the suspension tuning know how that went with them. Basically, it's all about weighting on a trials bike. Body position and using your legs to absorb hits. At first I thought the suspension was awful; I think I referred to it as a wet noodle. But basically I just stink. You'll get the hang of it, leave the suspension alone.

I wear this when I'm practicing jumping around in the rocks: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/23113/i/fox-racing-titan-sport-jacket When I'm competing I don't wear anything upper body, but I ride the easy classes. The Fox is really comfortable, and all the protection stays in place because it's a single unit (as opposed to separate elbow guards, etc). It feels more like wearing an armored shirt, and I wear it when riding enduro as well. Great kit.

I take it the 300 Factory motor is actually different from the standard 300? I'd assumed it was basically the same...

On the Paioli forks on the EVO's, there's a plug on the bottom of the fork leg on that side. To change the fork oil, you first remove that bolt, remove the cartridge and drain the oil, re-insert the cartridge and the bolt, fill with oil, pull the damper rod up and down for a while to fill the cartridge with oil and remove the air, then loosen the bolt again to extend the fork tube. If you try and pull up on the tube like I did before removing that bolt again... fork oil explosion.

So I made a bit of a mistake when changing my fork oil on the rebound/compression side. After measuring the fork oil with the leg collapsed and putting everything back together, I then proceeded to try and extend the fork leg without first unscrewing the bolt at the bottom of the leg. The end result was me awash in oil that escaped in a gush through the seal. Having learned my lesson, fixed things and bolted it all back together, but I'm curious if anyone's done this and had the seal go early. I'm hopeful it's ok, but I guess I'll find out after a few rides. On a related note, anyone know where I can get a seal driver?

Can anyone confirm for me that the four bushes that the swingarm rides on (the black bushings that fit into the swingarm, that the bearings ride on) are all identical? They look the same to me, but when I mount the swingarm back up, I have a pretty big gap visible between the bushing and the swingarm. I gather this is normal, but it seems like a pretty big gap for dirt to get into.

Never mind... problem solved!

It's probably time for me to dump the fork oil in my '13 Evo, and the manual is horribly unclear as to how to measure the level. I'm guessing it's spring in, fully compressed, then measure from the top of the tube to the oil, but was looking for confirmation.

Sono nato in Stati Uniti, ma mia famiglia sono da Avellino. Adesso vivo in Massachusetts. But I've lived in Florence, Perugia and Sepino for brief spells. I need an excuse to practice my horrible Italian

Che bella motocicletta Dove vivi in italia?

Anyone have a ballpark idea what I should be paying for a 2008 Beta 250, assuming good average condition?

So I'm adapting to the shifting on the '13 Beta, and for riding sections, it's perfectly fine. I don't really mind the quick release/fast take up. What does annoy me to no end is the big pause I need to make when shifting gears if I'm moving (e.g. when trying to get up to 5th for example). I more or less need to come to a stop between 1st/2nd without making a rather clunky shift. After that I have enough speed to get up through the rest of the gears, but I still need to pause dramatically between shifts in order to get anything approaching a smooth change. I'd also love to be able to reliably find neutral once the gearbox is warm, which right now is basically impossible. While I'd like to try Dan's clutch fix, I have two kids and not a whole lot of patience for jobs that take > 1hr, even if I had the free time. So in the interests of expediency, I'm curious if anyone has had any luck with the surflex clutch and race steels making any difference. Since I can pop them all in and be done with it in 20 minutes, it's somewhat appealing despite the price tag.

Worked for about 10 minutes of riding, now back to it's piggy self again.

Any RITC members on here? PM me.

Greased all the pads and pins, still squealing like a piggy.

Good call on the anti-squeal, I'd forgotten about that. I'll give some a try.

Both my front and rear brakes squeal like stuck pigs. I've pulled the pads, sanded them down a bit, scuffed up the rotors, but it comes back pretty quickly. Is there a brand of pads I can try that might alleviate this? I only really care because I practice near neighbors, and I'd like to keep the annoying noise to a minimum.

I am in the US, Massachusetts.

As a complete newb to the world of competition trials, I have to say I find the whole 'no stop' thing completely ridiculous, and all the arguments surrounding the rules just further my inclination to not bother keeping tabs on world events at all.

Haha... I eat my fair share believe it or not, but at 38 I think I'm pretty much all growed up.

So trials pants appear to be sized using S, M, L, etc. I haven't a clue where I fit in the range, since it's (presumably) all relative. And since I cannot try anything on (there isn't a place that sells trials clothing within multiple hours of me) I need some help on what size to order. Height: 5'10" / 1.8 meters Weight: 140lbs / 10 stone / 63 kilos Any suggestions?