heffergm

KTM tend to do a lot of promotion/advertising... and they're not averse to doing it with sports that are a bit off the regularly beaten path (e.g. extreme enduro, which was pretty obscure until the last few years... it's now a KTM-fest).

rofl It's nice to own one of the brands that isn't (yet) out of business.

Oset is building a market for themselves. They're basically creating a group of young riders that will grow up only on electric and by the time they're old enough for one I have no doubt that oset will have a full size competition model. My son rides one and he's constantly on my case to get an electric bike so we can rode around the house together. That and he hates my exhaust hitting him in the face. My next bike will definitely be electric, probably an em5.7 next year. It just opens up a lot of riding opportunities that I don't want to forgo.

So I've generally run my bars straight up and down, but I noticed on my '15 300 that there are adjustment marks on the bars, and 'neutral' is where the first mark is. So I figured I'd mess around, and rolled the bars forward to the middle adjustment mark. This feels mega forward from what I'm used to, but I went and had a quick ride, and it certainly makes the cockpit feel 'roomier', and I certainly didn't dislike the change. I'm curious if the newer bikes like a more rolled forward position as a general rule, and either way, if it's common for people to run the bars rolled forward past neutral.

I think the easiest way would be to promote it along side existing enduro/hare scramble series as almost something of an 'entry level' discipline. Obviously it isn't that, but I think a lot more people would be inclined to get their kids on trials bikes if they saw first hand how much fun and relatively safer it is than blitzing through the woods. Enduros/hare scrambles (around here anyway) have huge turnouts at events, and starting to get those people on trials bikes would drive a lot of interest, especially with guys like Jarvis, et al starting to become more common names as hard enduro picks up steam. My local club has been doing a free clinic where guys can come to an event, ride an hour or two with an experienced rider in the morning on a loaner trials bike, then go work as a checker, all gratis. From what I can tell it's driven a lot of interest (it's how I got into it). The sport needs kids growing up riding trials, otherwise you end up with what my local club looks like... the 40+ classes are bursting, but youth/novice are slim pickings and younger people riding advanced categories are pretty few and far between as well.

Out of curiosity, what year is your bike and what didn't you like about the rear shock?

Nearly new bike, second oil change, start screwing the drain bolt back in (by hand) proceed to continue with ratchet when I feel it start to tighten up. Realize the bolt isn't anywhere near being fully threaded in and stop, remove bolt. Threads are totally galled. No idea what's going on, since it came out without a problem and this is the second oil change. Stick a q-tip in the drain hole and find a bunch of the usual new gearbox metal shavings, along with one nice big metal chunk that I have to imagine the bolt got hung up on and made a mess of the threads. Now the problem is that a new bolt still won't thread cleanly. It feels like it bottoms when there's still ~1cm to go before it's even full threaded. Aside from being incredibly p****d off in general and at sherco for building a motor with the drain plug not on the bottom of the flipping motor (and for that matter, using a ridiculous 8mm bolt in a service area of the bike where it's going to be on and off constantly), what are my options?

Perfect, thanks for the info. I was a little confused as to what to expect the range to be.

I've got a '15 300 with the keihin carb. The air screw came set a half turn out from fully in, which seems weird to me. It runs well enough there, and backing it out more than another half turn it starts running poorly. I can't imagine the jetting is that far off... should I just leave it?

Can anyone enlighten me as to why sherco make a 290 and a 300? As far as I can tell the only difference is a slightly larger bore on the 300.

Anyone have a new-ish Sherco and care to comment on the rear shock? It seems to me that it blows through the stroke way too easily (or at least I certainly feel it more than I did on the beta when it bottoms). I weight 145lbs, maybe 150 with gear (~68kg), and I'm not riding anything remotely serious, which is why the fact that its so soft seems odd to me. The preload looks about right, as I've got ~2 inches of sag (with me on it). I'd try adjusting the compression, but I haven't got the first clue how anyone expects to get a screwdriver remotely close to the shock without pulling it out of the bike.

Crabby bunch. Jeesh.

No, sorry. Near me, Beta and GG are by far the two most ridden (and therefore most easily attained and supported) bikes. Sherco is probably next, with Ossa a distant 4th. I think I can count the number of Montesa's I've seen at our local trials on half a hand.

Winter is here and my bike has been sold. So while I toss logs on the fire and dream about either spending next summer in Italy or buying a new bike (the two are not at all intertwined by the way... I'm not forgoing one for the other, but if I'm in Fiesole for the summer I won't be trialing), I figured I should at least give thought to what I should buy if I end up needing another bike. I'm coming off a '13 Beta Evo 300. Bullet proof, very smooth, no real complaints. Maybe feels a bit heavy? That said, total overkill in the power department. It was never a hindrance, but I never used 60% of it in my riding. So with that in mind I was thinking of a 250 or 200 Evo. But I'm also really intrigued by the Ossa... fuel injection is fantastic. And I'll throw the GG in the mix for kicks. Fire away!

Anyone with a recent (2012+) GG care to comment on their experiences with reliability (or lack thereof)? I'm coming off a Beta that I put a million hours on and, aside from things I broke, it never went wrong. I'm inclined to just get another Beta since I'd rather ride than wrench, but something new/different sounds fun.

That's the carb float bowl. It's typically not clear. The stuff in the bottom is petrol.

So I went out to ride twice yesterday, the first time in the morning the bike ran fine. The second time it was a mess. The idle was hunting/surging and there was a knock from the motor just off idle when giving the bike a few revs. It was also surging badly when riding at small throttle openings, i.e. just rolling at a steady speed down the trail. Any suggestions on where to start looking? It's a '13 Evo 300.

Probably worth mentioning I weigh 10 stone / 140 lbs

I'm not asking the question in the context of what will or won't make me any better or worse. The 300 is a fine bike, I have no issues with it. But it's time for another one, so if I like the feel of the 200, why not save $1000.

You're saying the 200 has the same bore as the 300 and just a shorter stroke?

Has anyone ridden/owned both a 200 and 300 that can compare them. I have a 300 now. Obviously the 300 has more power, but all I'm really interested in are: - does the 200 really feel any lighter than the 300? It's only listed as 1 pound lighter, but I'm wondering if it feels different given the smaller jug - how does the 200 compare to the 300 on the bottom end? I don't need all the power the 300 has, but I love all the low rpm torque.

Is it only when you get off the throttle? If it's getting cooler where you are it may be time to richen up the fuel screw.

... although the text doesn't actually mention the 200. Maybe it is toast.

No idea where they got that idea: 2015 200 2t: http://www.betamotor.com/it/trial/bikes/evo-125-200-2t-2

Since doing the clutch mod I don't have any lurching issues: - start the bike and let it warm up for a minute or two, at least until it idles on its own without the choke on - hop on, pull in the clutch, give it a few revs. Keep the clutch pulling in for 10 or 20 seconds - click the bike up into second gear Aside from filing the glue off, did you bevel and sand the tabs on the plates? As for the milky gearbox, it's moisture, the question is just where is it coming from. You said the coolant level 'hasn't gone down much' since filling. It shouldn't have gone down at all, so that might be the problem. Doesn't take much coolant in the oil to turn it into soup. But if the coolant level stabilizes and a few more oil changes don't take care of it, not sure.