heffergm

Anyone own one? I'm really curious... as weird as the side mount shock is, it looks cool How much do they go for? Impression of the bike as compared to anything else?

Absolutely. Thinking otherwise is salve on the ego's of guys like me that are pretty bad but know that having the best bike would make me a an order of magnitude better

I'd definitely get the 16. It'll haul my 140lbs around at a good clip. Turned down is been a great bike for my now 7 year old and I can see him easily riding it for another 3 or 4 years.

I found this snippet in the manual, which certainly sounds to me as if the clutch operates as a potentiometer of sorts, rather than just an on/off switch: The ELS system allows you : - To cut instantly the power of the motorcycle. - To modulate progressively the acceleration of the motorcycle. - With the combined effect of the throttle and the ELS lever, to have a very precise action of throttle, usefull in very slow and winding sections. The effect can be compare to a mechanical cluch. - Like a thermical engine cluch, to have instantly the full power when needed.

I take it you have one. What's your impression overall... ever consider another gas bike, or has that ship sailed and it's electric for you from here on out.

You're joking right? (please say yes). I asked out of simple curiosity, not any feeling of impending doom. The manual says 80 hours, I've put 65 on mine in the last 4 months and am going to blow way past 80 by the end of the season. Heaven forbid I ask how many hours people are typically getting on pistons.

There's a 2012 Raga replica available near me that I'm interested in. It looks to have been well cared after and not ridden too hard. Condition aside, is there anything I should be looking out for?

I've got 65 hours on it. Just curious.

Beta (by way of the service manual) tells me I need a new piston at 80 hours. Should I listen to them?

Well, the line snappedwhen I looped the bike, so not quite Betas fault.

So I did the clutch fix this weekend. Apparently I was slightly blind when I had the plates out a while back, because they were definitely awash with glue. It's definitely a lot better. I can't test is out fully for a bit (broke a brake line last week) but when I can I'll give it a good run and see how it fares when it's nice and hot. When the Sureflex shows up I may experiment a bit... will see how good the finish work on them is and whether I need to do all the same work to them or not.

So in the interests of whiling away the time while my bike is broken, anyone heard anything about the 2015 Beta's?

Bike is stock. I adjusted the lever out even further than it already was and it now shifts better, but clutch modulation is really difficult. It grabs so far out in the levers travel.

I am.

Not to get too negative about it, but WOW is that thing ugly.

Well, I'm not what I'd even call intermediate, so that's probably fine in my case. I'm surprised more people haven't taken the plunge though.

Anyone ridden one? Pretty pricey where I am but I'm still incredibly intrigued by the lack of noise and basically no maintenance. My son has an Oset 16 that can move me around with ease so I'm not too concerned about power. Anyway, really just curious about them now that they've been around for 4 or so years.

2013

I don't really have access to that gear oil here. But I just follow the manual as far as gearbox oil goes, which is for 10w40. I'm running Motul Transoil 10w40 at the moment, and it behaves exactly like everything else I've tried. I guess I'll pull the plates out again. I looked at them once before, and they didn't look that bad in terms of glue and finish, but perhaps my eyes deceive me.

Email me? heffergm _at_ gmail.com

... this thing is killing me. I've finally got the clutch working reasonably well, but when the gearbox gets hot, like riding a loop in an event, the clutch drag gets so horrible that I can't roll the bike back with the clutch in and the bike in gear. Shifting up through the box is a total disaster. If an event was me carrying my bike from one section to the next, life would be grand, but since I have to actually shift the damn thing out of 1st now and then and ride the loop, I'm getting pretty annoyed.

I'm a recent trials convert as well. If you're used to riding Enduro bikes like I have been, toss out all the suspension tuning know how that went with them. Basically, it's all about weighting on a trials bike. Body position and using your legs to absorb hits. At first I thought the suspension was awful; I think I referred to it as a wet noodle. But basically I just stink. You'll get the hang of it, leave the suspension alone.

I wear this when I'm practicing jumping around in the rocks: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/23113/i/fox-racing-titan-sport-jacket When I'm competing I don't wear anything upper body, but I ride the easy classes. The Fox is really comfortable, and all the protection stays in place because it's a single unit (as opposed to separate elbow guards, etc). It feels more like wearing an armored shirt, and I wear it when riding enduro as well. Great kit.

I take it the 300 Factory motor is actually different from the standard 300? I'd assumed it was basically the same...

On the Paioli forks on the EVO's, there's a plug on the bottom of the fork leg on that side. To change the fork oil, you first remove that bolt, remove the cartridge and drain the oil, re-insert the cartridge and the bolt, fill with oil, pull the damper rod up and down for a while to fill the cartridge with oil and remove the air, then loosen the bolt again to extend the fork tube. If you try and pull up on the tube like I did before removing that bolt again... fork oil explosion.