mattlloyd50

Hope you didnt mind me posting the pics. If so let me know. Matt

these are photos i found on another site but as i found them useful thought id post them here, they should have about 80ml of 7.5 w oil in them. the oil level should be 65mm from the top when filled.

the photos seem to have been jumbled up and im too tired to sort them so the procedure was compress spring with straps remove collet remove spring tap end cap off with chisel (carefully) remove valve core and pour oil out of valve press damper into shock body and remove c clip ​pull damper rod out of body, (this was quite difficult as the o ring on the damper got stuck in the c clip groove. I pressurised the body with the compressor and popped the first one out and pulled the second one like a slide hammer, both methods worked well.

i have just rebuilt a pair of betor 360mm shocks and couldnt find any photos before i started so thought i would add some.

im still happy with the result. the only thing i should have done differently is where i welded the back on, i should have pop rivited it to make it easier to replace the packing in the future.

first trial with the new muffler on sunday, im pleased with the result. felt more snappy from idle to quater throttle.

i have seen a few bikes with straight through exhaust mufflers and like the idea but also like the look of the original exhaust. i decided to cut one open and see what i could do. i have attached some photos that should be self explanitary but if not please ask. i fitted it to the bike this afternoon and it sounded different but still as quiet as the original setup, it also felt quite a but more perky but this was only in quite a small area so i will give it a proper test on monday once its painted and refitted.

i found this a while ago and have just got round to translating it, there are still a few headings that i couldnt figure out but it shouls be useful. https://www.dropbox.com/s/gps74puq7hs3pnl/SWM%20MODEL%20SPEC%20SHEET.xls?dl=0 hope it helps. matt

thanks dom. thats what i was hoping for.

im planning to go practicing and try moving the stator plate to a few different positions. is it safe to try moving it from one extreme to another. hopefuly this will give me better understanding of its effect.

how does advancing or retarding the ignition affect the feel of the bike at low revs? thanks matt

this is how i do mine, i use one strap from the loop on the tow ball bracket, this is fed over the seat and hooked onto the right footrest i have also extended the rear wheel support and put a strap around that.

you will need proof of age or dating certificate from the importer. mine was about

the reason i asked is because i have had the bike about 8 years, it sounds fine and runs well. i have recently decoked and repacked the exhaust, the carb clutch gearbox and ignition are also good. i dont know if its down on power as i have nothing to compare it to but dont want the piston to fail and cause other damage.

hi i have a swm 240 and have no idea how long the current piston has been fitted. what lifespan would you expect to get from a piston before changing it or the rings? also could i tell the condition of a piston with a cylinder compression guage and what would be a good pressure? thanks for any help matt

hi i had similar problems with a 240, i rewound the stator but still had trouble then bought a new one from martin with points and condensor, this solved the problem then it developed a severe misfire. this was down to the condensor. i also have a climber motor that i used for the clutch assmbly, (a lot lighter opperation) but the flywheel is dished the opposite way and the windings are mounted to the outer cover. looked like a lot of work to make it fit. hope it helps matt

thanks for the help and replys. i swapped the condenser and the problems gone. if it happens again i may fit it away from the engine.

the fuel system seems fine, even the filter on the fuel tap in the tank is clear. im going to try a different condensor tomorrow hopefully.

hi i have an swm 240 and have had some ignition trouble. it would run fine for about half an hour then would stop sparking, i have replaced the complete ignition system (stator winding, condenser, points, ht coil and plug). this has solved the problem and it ran fine for two trials but during the most recent trial it started misfiring on a long climb. since then it will start and idle ok, but when i ride it splutters and backfires a lot. could this be the condenser breaking down? i have also cleaned the carb and tried a different clean carb but no change in the symptoms. so im pretty confident its not fuel related. please help as im very frustrated with it. thanks

the trailer will put less weight on the back than putting the bike on the car.

try msm insurance, 01279870535 they specialise in trials and enduro competition and road insurance. cheap too.

this should be ok but it will be better with a tow ball aswell, as when you tighten the bolts they may squash the box section the rack is made from. the tow ball will spread the pressure a bit more. i use a rack frequently on a citroen picasso to carry a twinshock swm and a honda xlr trail bike both have been fine.

HI can anyone suggest a way to flush out the gearbox on an SWM 240? i was just going to do two oil changes close together but was told to "fill it with diesel give it a swill round then drain it." Has anyone tried this? Thanks Matt

Try the white route!