Sometimes the airbox can creak when you jump on the pegs, probably from the frame flexing a little. But it doesnt really sound like what you are describing.
It seems to be a problem thats mainly limited to the 125s. I doubt its a water ingress problem, the amount of failures that are out there indicates an inherent flaw in one of the components. Maybe you could get a lend of a TRS one to see how it runs with one fitted. Otherwise its a risk
Nothing special about a 12/13, because nothing much has changed over the years. Frames basically all the same, changed to the current round tube in 2009. 2001 to 2008 had a more oval main tube. Check for any cracks around the head tube or any that have been welded up. I think the white framed ones around 2014 had a few frames crack. Steering geometry has stayed the same, unless the triple clamps changed. Forks changed from marzocchi to tech in 2016 i think but the Raga had them a couple years earlier. The marzocchis were a good fork. Same base engine throughout the years, the pro came in 2001. Ignition makes changed over the years so a bit of pot luck regards availability. The Raga/GP were slightly better specced as opposed to the standard/racing, with a better shock (Reiger or ohlins vs sachs) and forks (tech vs marz) and carb (keihin vs dellorto). If you're a clubman i would choose a cleaner standard model over a rougher raga/racing model every time. Id actually stay away from a raga because they have magnesium crankcases that sometimes broke or could be starting to corrode now. Very little difference performance wise.
Personally id be looking for anything post 2010. The later frame, and from then the bikes have all been pretty reliable. Earlier years had variable clutch issues. Id pick what looks the best price wise for condition. And dont be swayed by a Raga or GP, unless a similar condition and price
I may be slightly incorrect regarding naming, but for many years you had the txt pro and the raga edition. Then when he left i think it became the txt pro and the txt racing. Then they dropped the txt pro (marzocchi and dellorto model) and then had the txt racing and txt GP.
Ive had five 300 ggs since 2010 and never had any problems bar general maintenance, but i know others who have had issues. The montesas are the most reliable. After that i think all the 2 strokes are a much of a muchness when it comes to reliability. They all have their flaws.
Hi guys, hopefully you can help me make my mind up on this, basically I bought my Daughter a newer bike (2019) to replace her (2015) I'm happy with it otherthan the rims are tatty on the 2019 so I was going to swap the wheels over, the rear wheel is the same dimensions no problems, but the front 2015 has 61905 bearings and the 2019 has 6004 bearings meaning the wheels will not fit due to spindle size, forks etc... so my idea is to take them both appart and swap rims round???? I've invested in the truing stand and wrench etc and watched several videos but when I get close to doing it something/someone puts me off i.e. there is a lot of measurements you need to take, it's extremely hard to do and if i fail once appart no wheel specialists will take the job on??? So im stuck im always up to have a go at anything and I've not failed so far?? But am I taking on the unknown with the end result being a box of scrap ???? Really really appreciate your help in this?? Cheers Simon.
Relacing a wheel isn't that difficult especially when you can take pictures of the wheel spoke layout beforehand and also have the correct length spokes. The only measurement you need is the offset from the disc to the rim edge, and its only a trials bike, being a mm or two out isn't that critical. Even if you screw it up i doubt a shop would refuse to correct it for you. You could also replace the bearings, see the below link but if you're unsure about relacing a wheel, that may also be too daunting for you. Basically both wheels have the same outer bearing diameter but different inners for the spindle and different widths. If you can find bearings that are the same outer and width with only the inner difference then its a simple bearing swap. I think the link below contains one set of interchangeable bearing
What are you intending to do on the bike? Ride trails, blast up hills and the odd piece of technical riding to boost your enduro skills? If thats the case the 300 will be no problem for you.
But if you intend to rider proper trials, slow speed and tight technical sections, your skill level will dictate that not only could a 300 not be as easy to control as a 250, you won't be good enough (yet) to take advantage of its more power. Theres good trials riders out there riding 250s and in no rush for 300s. 300s are really just reserved for experts. They are nice to bop about on, but in a section they just aren't as nice as a smooth 250.
That being said, dont sweat the decision too much, neither will be majorly wrong and only you know what you really want from the bike. You'll find that out after a couple of months
At your size and relative bike ability i would totally rule out a 125. The 250 will be much closer to a 300 than a 125. I doubt you would get on a 250 and complain it hasn't enough power but if you've had a go on a 300 and it felt ok then go for it
If you're serious about him progressing then get a 125, kids flick them about so much better and feel more confident on them. That being said if he just likes riding about and you dont have the intention of him entering events he will probably have as much fun on the 250
IMO your lever angle looks ok. Thats what i ride with, but most others would be between that and horizontal. Your lever needs to be closer to the end of your bars. Youre aiming for your index finger to position in the most inward bend part of the lever, ie about the 2 5/8 inch mark on your ruler.
I used my middle finger as a teenager, but got told by everyone to use my index. I agree, now i couldn't use my middle finger through years of index finger use. But it obviously isn't that big of a disadvantage, if even, if guys at the top use it. I always thought mx riders got away with it because you didnt have to be that critical with the clutch but then i seen busto using his. Im certainly not advocating the OP to start trying his middle finger
Agreed, the clutch should disengage before the lever hits your other knuckles. I ride with quite a steep decline in the levers while others run them horizontally, some a slight decline, some a slight incline. Then you have the group that use their middle finger for the clutch!!
Thanks for the replies , I knew I could get the hose made up easily (Venhill) , but was unsure of the the seals , I assume they are just a standard epdm o-ring ?
Not sure of the exact o-ring , but epdm is brake fluid resistant
Malcolm rathmells were actually the importers of that model of scorpa. Richard allen does a lot of 2nd hand spares for older bikes, although a clutch hose and seals are just generic parts available from any bike or seal shop
Airboxes !!
in Gas Gas
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It will. The filter cover pieces are different so make sure the 22 one comes with the cover