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feetupsbetter

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  1. You could try Bumpy Ltd at birstall if you want to have a practice session. It’s a charity with a big off road riding area. If you want to ride some actual trials together, then I can highly recommend you go along to a Huddersfield Falcons event. They run a few different series, club championships, dead easy, evening series etc. but they include classes for everyone including the kids. Very nice bunch and very keen to get bums on seats, so set out sections that won’t frighten off the beginners. There are also clubs based around Bradford, west Leeds etc, but I can’t vouch for the standard of events. Get along to watch some & say hello to as many people as you can to get a feel for which would suit you best. Good Luck.
  2. Well I’m pretty gobsmacked that a couple of days after your post you’ve not been swamped with strong opinions in all directions 🤔. So, here goes with a few basic observations of mine to give you some outline of the ‘old’ modern bikes. You’re obviously familiar with bikes in general looking at your bike list, so the usual applies to find what looks like a well maintained & not abused one. With regard to each brand, well they’re all going to be good enough for you to ‘dick about on’ and do some easy trials, you really won’t need anything other than a 250 although loads of people say a beta evo 200 is the perfect beginner bike. 2010 is a fairly good start point year wise, Gas Gas & Beta both brought out new chassis in 09 with pretty much same engines as previous models, and current bikes are still tweaked versions of the same with a few changes each year (some worth it & some probably not so). GG just carried on with the ‘txt pro’ name while beta called their new one the ‘evo’ after using ‘rev’ as model name for years. They both did various capacities and ‘racing’ or ‘replica’ versions with higher spec parts or state of tune etc. Worth noting that betas are odd in the sense that they all have left side kickstart if that’s any problem to you, but they also produced a four stroke in 250 or 300cc in virtually the same chassis, which seem well regarded. Sherco are a bit different in that they brought out a model around 2011 or 12 I think which had a rear mounted fuel tank. It looked like it had silencers both sides until you looked more closely, but it necessitated a pump to lift fuel up to the carb, and I understand this system was a troublesome feature for many owners, and sherco reverted back to the more conventional setup after just a couple of years. Montesa of course have been producing trials bikes under Honda for years, firstly the 315r two stroke before the introduction of the 4rt four stroke. Both have legendary Honda build quality, a few say the 4rt is on the heavy side but I think you might be used to that ! Then there is scorpa, I think a lower volume manufacturer but still decent bikes. You might just come across a modern Ossa with very radical backwards facing barrel & fuel injection, but although these seemed pretty good at the time, they fell by the wayside & I believe some spares might be a bit tricky. Same goes for jotagas (JG), and there’s also TRS which are great bikes but much newer than you’re probably looking at. I think a big factor for bikes that age is spares availability, GG beta & sherco seem to be well supported but some bits are hard to find or expensive (particularly plastics) so find what your local dealer supports best. There’s plenty of breakers though, and the aftermarket companies all do general items like levers, gaskets etc. They can all be tweaked for performance with fast or slow throttle tubes, varying base gaskets, etc etc. It’s down to personal preference obviously on the basic 2 Stroke/4 stroke debate, some find 4t hard to get along with. Best is to see if you can cadge a ride on a few different bikes to get a feel for how they are. I’m sure they’ll all ride a lot easier than an old panther though 😂. I had a few GG up to 2005, and currently an 09 evo, both have good points & bad but on the whole I wouldn’t say one is better than the other in build quality, (many will say otherwise) but I can only speak as I find. Hope that helps you a bit & doesn’t cause too much backlash among those with more specialised brand knowledge or experience. I’m sure I’ll have missed something relevant but hopefully others can fill you in with more information.
  3. Oh, and there must be a frame number somewhere as mine, along with many others (I’m sure I’ve seen pics of them in the SSDT), was road registered.
  4. Hi Graeme, nice to see the pic of your project. I have a couple of old instamatic pics of me riding mine somewhere which I will try to dig out & put up here, they’re taken from a distance if I remember so might not be much use but who knows ? The forks & front hub on yours look as I remember, the tank was the same ( I remember respraying it) but beyond that I can’t be sure if it’s the same frame. Mine definitely had a single trials type seat, and I think the same Preston petty mudguards, so maybe they were standard fitment ? They were definitely the aftermarket choice in the day. What I do remember is the twin downtube frame and my exhaust went straight up between the tubes & over the ‘porcupine’ head of the puch motor, then into a silencer which was a very ‘square’ box above the carb/under the seat. I seem to remember there being a photo of that model in ‘Mick Andrew’s book of trials’ which I had at the time (wish I still had, don’t know where that went? ), maybe another reader might be able to check ?. Good luck with it.
  5. Hi Graeme, as a teenager I had a dalesman with the puch engine which I think was a 1969 or 1970 model. It was road regd D?? 70 H if I remember rightly (id be interested to know if still exists if anyone has any information). As far as I know the forks on that model we’re called ‘MP’ made by a company called Metal Profile which I think was based in West or North Yorkshire. They were very much puny things & not really up to the job in my humble opinion, mine forever had oil leaks. I also have some vague memory of REH components on some of those 60’s ‘kit’ bikes, but is that forks or hubs? Hopefully someone else will come along with some more accurate & helpful info for you, but it just jogged a memory that made me want to reply. Cheers.
  6. Funny that isn’t it, someone trying to sell you a 7k fourstoke montesa rubbishing every other bike. Agree with tshock250, it’s all crap. There’s plenty of trials bikes never have a set of rings in their lifetime, many probably go for decades without the engine ever being opened. The old bulto’s & goris you mention won’t have unless they’ve changed hands & been rebuilt as a precautionary process after a long time standing. Some really hard used bikes at top level use will have had a lot of maintenance but most won’t have needed it. It sounds like you have the funds to buy what you fancy, and the ability/knowledge to repair or rebuild anything as required, so do just that - buy what you fancy, if it don’t work out then swap it later. 2k will buy you a fairly modern bike, just try to find one that’s been looked after, as opposed to the first that comes along or the nearest one to home. Go have a look at that local trial, and talk to as many people as you can to get some background. You might even find a bike that suits right there. Oh, and don’t be afraid of trying competitions, it’s all very friendly & above all fun. We’ve all been over the bars, on our a*** in the river etc at some time so you won’t be doing anything everyone else hasn’t done. Riding in competitions is the best way to learn if you ask me, pushes your limits a bit, and plenty of offers of advice & help along the way. Welcome along, enjoy !
  7. In terms of package size, if you can get someone to take the wheels out, bars off & maybe rear mudguard, then it makes a pretty compact box. That would then be fairly easy to find a space for in a container. I guess you’d need some kind of freight forwarder or similar to deal with the paperwork & customs side of things. Probably cheaper if you can get it ‘sent’ from here rather than arrange ‘collection’ from over there. A friend or family member this end would be handy !
  8. I have to say I never saw the point of folding levers (at the price premium), just slacken the clamps as totty79 says, and 9 times out of ten they survive being dropped. However when I bought my evo it had them fitted and I now think they’re fab. Only negative is that sometimes when you want to lean your bike against a tree, the lever folds back making it necessary to fiddle around to get a perfect parking spot ! If you really struggle to get standard types to be a snug fit in the bar clamp, are you getting the ones with plastic ‘top hat’ bushes ? If so you can easily make plastic/nylon washers to take up the slack.
  9. Agree entirely with chrisCH, if it’s too hard go home or just ride around & practice a bit. I used to ride with Huddersfield falcons when I lived up there, & they run a separate dead easy series, so along with the easy routes on their club championship series they definitely have something for everyone. Many of their venues are around holmfirth so not too far away from you hopefully. Just go for it 😀😀. You can always go & have look at an event first before you commit to loading up the bike & going for the full day out.
  10. Was the impeller replaced in an attempt to fix an already overheating situation ? First thing, are you sure it’s overheating? They do spit any excess water out once warm, cold level should be near the bottom of the header tank & not right up to the cap. Second, are you sure the fan is pulling air through the rad (from front to back as it would be if you were motoring along)? It won’t be the first time the fans been to be found running the wrong way & trying to push air through the rad other way - not nearly efficient enough. Third, although you say the stat is working, is it opening at the correct temperature & opening fully? Find the right trigger temp from dealers, then put in a pan of water with a thermometer & check when it opens. Finally, have you checked/flushed the rad ? There may be some cores blocked reducing its efficiency, I’m sure there’ll be many methods already on here for how to clear any blockages. Beyond that I’m afraid it’s down to more experienced mechanical wizards, but I’m sure some more tips will follow.
  11. Well done Hughie. You do realise though that you have no excuses anymore 🤣. (Unless you want to join that team that has a problem with every bike!) All down to you now, get stuck in but above all let yourself enjoy it. I know we need to be in it to be as good as we can be, but don’t beat yourself up on a bad day. Keep an eye out for the riders at your level as you start competing, then compare results each trial. It’s great 😊. oh and make sure you chat to as many people as possible while signing on, queuing, walking sections etc, you’ll soon find lots of friendly assistance coming your way.
  12. Try venhill cables or HEL performance, they might be able to help as they make many hydraulic lines for bikes and might have the specs ready to make one up. If they don’t know the spec or you can’t identify/measure the existing fittings or specify the thread types etc, then look up your local hydraulic hose suppliers and present the old one to them. Most will be able to make one up while you wait. If not, have you tried the breakers just to get you going?
  13. I have to agree with Chris CH, tshock250, & nhuskys. Concentrate your efforts on your riding and if the chance to have a go on another bike comes up then take it, maybe even be cheeky & ask a few others for a test ride ! While you’re improving keep an eye out for other bikes but don’t get consumed by it. You could end up buying that ‘holy grail’ evo 200, only to be disappointed when it doesn’t meet your expectations. How many golfers do you know that always want new clubs ? Or the phrase a poor workman always blames his tools ? I’ve never had a budget for fancy bikes, (09 evo currently) and am only a clubman plodder, but you can’t beat the satisfaction of getting the results through to find you’ve beaten the guy who turned up with the latest up-to-datest bike with matching gear & a new van 😂. Just go ride & enjoy.
  14. feetupsbetter

    2018 Evo 200

    I don’t think I’d take that reasoning for a full engine rebuild at face value, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. There must have been some cause for concern to spend that money on a bike to then sell it, so I’d dig deeper for a more sensible answer as to why. If there was some sort of failure/wear/noise there could be many causes. Bike could have been submerged & drawn water in & then left to stand, a component (bearing/shaft) at the extremes of acceptable manufacturing tolerance may have failed, run without oil etc etc. I would be trying to find a more plausible explanation as it sounds to me like a cover story to hide the real truth which is probably something the seller knows won’t sound too attractive. Could just be they’ve done something stupid they don’t want to admit to which necessitated the work. ‘Bought it used & don’t know the history’ rings alarm bells to me. It’d have to be cheap, for the seller to buy it in the first place, and to sell on if that’s all they can tell you. I’d definitely want to see a receipt for the work AND checkout the person/business that carried it out. As trapezeartist says, judge it on merit, if they’ve trialled it to death (which I agree is unlikely for that model), then it will be evident in every other component. Good luck with your quest !
  15. Glad you found what you were looking for, proves they are out there. Welcome on board, & enjoy 😊
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