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feetupsbetter

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Everything posted by feetupsbetter

  1. Oh yes, as rotors7 says, make sure they’re a good fit if it’s muddy. Sock feet & trials footrests aren’t a good combo.
  2. Builders site wellies are fine to start with. Those with steel toe caps and the fine ribs along the top of the foot and up the front. They give decent protection for if you bash your shins ( footrests bloody hurt !) and also if you end up with your foot/leg trapped under or next to the bike which can be quite a regular thing, particularly as a beginner. They’re not the best thing for ‘feel’, particularly on the brake pedal, but do the job. In years gone by those wellies were sold in bike shops as ‘Dunlop trials wellies’. Oh how times change. Have fun.
  3. feetupsbetter

    No spark.

    Seem to remember when I rang bradfords they gave me advice on what to check to confirm the stator was dead. Just a quick check with a multimeter confirmed in my case, but it was similar to yours, just a sudden total failure. Betas do seem prone to this fault and I was assured that rewound would be better than the original item.
  4. feetupsbetter

    No spark.

    Bradford ignitions did a rewind on my beta evo stator, very reasonable price & quick turnaround. They’re down in Cornwall but do postal service.
  5. I’d pretty much agree with all of the above. 250 is definitely big enough, don’t be tempted to go bigger. I’d have thought for 2 grand you should get a decent bike more like 2008 onwards. If you go beta you might find an evo (2stroke or four stroke), if you go gas gas look for post 2005 as they had an update that year with better forks. Look for a clean well serviced bike rather than one with fresh sticker kit, so check usual bearings chain & sprockets etc. Look out for odd bolts & rounded heads etc that give you a clue it’s been worked on by a less than competent person. Good luck & enjoy, it’s a completely different game from enduro and more skilful than you might imagine! Practice practice practice ! You’ll find a great bunch of people whatever bike you get and wherever you ride.
  6. Could also try Bradford ignitions at Hayle in Cornwall, uk. Did a great job on my evo stator at a very reasonable price.
  7. Yep I’d agree with previous answers. Points forwards but can’t remember whether it cranks out or in to line up with the chain tube mountings. Should be obvious when you have it in place. Still can’t decide whether they were any use or not those chain tubes. Seemed great when I had a mont 200c, saved all the mud being carried towards the drive sprocket, but still needed to clean the chain just like modern bikes with nothing similar. Maybe just been persuaded over the years that (relatively) open chain is ok.
  8. The heat would really need to applied to the flywheel to expand it away from the shaft. Heating the shaft may have some effect as it’s expansion, although restricted by the flywheel, may just dislodge the corrosion enough for it to lose its grip on the flywheel. If the engines out of the bike why not put the whole thing in the fridge or freezer for a while to really cool it down then take it out & re apply very localised heat around the hub of the flywheel, preferably with a modellers type fine blowtorch. Might just work. I always put wheel bearings in the freezer for a few minutes before fitting, it just takes out the interference and saves a bit of metal to metal contact. Once back to normal temperatures where both bearing & hub are equal, then all is well. Good luck.
  9. Ok guys here’s my two penneth, and I may be unpopular here. I’m just an average plodder,( higher end of easy course) been playing at it on & off for more years than I care to remember, and to be honest haven’t ridden for about 2 years now mainly due to house move across the country & then Covid. I have an 09 evo 250 sitting in the garage which I’ve had for about 5 years and really rode in anger for 3 years, and I really have no complaints about build quality, brakes or plastics. I’d say it’s better made than the gassers I had previously (last was an 05) so we’re talking older stuff here but who at grass roots level is so picky? I’ve never in the last 15 years of riding bust a mudguard, what the hell are you all doing ? I get that occasionally the bike might fall or crash awkwardly and that these things can happen, and I do think the price of parts is pretty huge. But, surely part of learning to ride trials is learning to fall off ‘safely’ as well ? I bought some secondhand plastics for the gassers but they ended going with the bike when I sold it. As for gearboxes & brakes, don’t they all occasionally jump out of gear ? Don’t you see a difference between each time you bleed the brakes, sometimes more successful than others ? Again part of learning is double checking when you select a gear to enter a section that you rock it and make sure it’s properly ‘in’, and also that you should be able to perform basic maintenance. (After all, trials was invented partly as a reliability event). Come on guys, stop blaming the bikes and being so picky, get real and see that they’re all pretty similar or they wouldn’t sell. God I wish I had funds to change the bike cos it jumped out of gear ! If you want a blue one buy it. If you prefer red buy that. But get back to the basics of enjoying the personal challenge that is the wonder of this sport. Sorry that this turned from a penneth to a quids worth ?.
  10. Photos would help too, many old bikes have had mods & changes over the years so if you’re looking at originality lots of people will be able to say ‘that’s not right’ or ‘that’s the wrong colour’ etc.
  11. Oh, one other point, I’ve never done it but I understand rim tapes are notoriously difficult to fit ! I hope you get it into a rideable state and get hooked on this great sport, assuming we will be able to get out & ride again sometime !
  12. I ride on a budget by the sound of it similar to yourself. All my modern bikes since taking up the sport again (3 gassers and a evo), have come to me with tubes fitted in a tubeless tyre, and I’ve never had any problems with that set up. They all had rim tapes fitted although I assumed they leaked, but they help protect the tube from damage on the spoke nipples, and also act as grip to stop the tube spinning. Once the tyre is seated properly on the rim with the tube at high pressure, they can be run/ridden down to 3.5psi quite readily, without rim locks. Looking at your rim I might be tempted to apply something like a lacquer or maybe waxoyl to stop it corroding further, as once you ride it in water the area between the tube & rim stays wet forever. So I’d go with an option 3, tubeless tyre with tube, rim tape but no silicone (no risk of silicone corrosion). Good luck.
  13. Ah I now see the problem. Not M4 at all. From dr nosh’s description they are probably Montesa supply only, to get the exact type. At least until someone gets a batch made. Having said that M7 is a defined metric thread, just not a preferred size (M6 or M8 are the preferred range), so there may be some M7 screws lurking somewhere but maybe not with the exact shape head you’d like. I just found screwsevolution.eu which stock quite a few M7 items, not quite what you want but might be worth a try as it seems old Vespa, innocenti & Citroen used them, amongst other auto industry manufacturers. Could be another search avenue.
  14. Just occurred to me, is it just the length that’s causing the problem ? I thought at first you meant odd size by way of M4 thread with an oversize head with 7mm hex socket, that would be odd. Found M4 x 8 long, everywhere. Just grind them to length ? Good info on Westfieldfasteners.co.uk. Unbrako brand is a long established high quality fastener manufacturer.
  15. Then try a few more suppliers, the smaller guys will only supply the run of the mill general engineering fasteners as they don’t want a load of stock lying around. These screws might be specialist but somewhere will have a load in stock, it’s finding what the special use or industry sector is that uses them regularly. Try giving a few stockist a call, eventually you might find an experienced and knowledgeable person who can point you in the right direction. Best bet is probably an old established engineers supplies - the kind where you find the staff in brown overalls. Somebody on here should be able to help. When I lived in South Yorkshire, many companies I worked at used MC Mills in Barnsley. They seemed to have, or be able to get, everything. Old school and helpful. Good Luck.
  16. Look up your nearest industrial supplies/ fastener supplies company with a trade counter. Take one of your existing screws and they should be able to source some for you. You can probably buy a box of fifty for the retail price of a set of 8 or however many there are round your cases, but they’ll sell you a single one if you want (unless they have a minimum order). Same goes for bearings too !
  17. I agree with everything said in previous replies. It’s a great friendly sport, take it as the fun thing it is, find some riders at your level and have your own little competition each time you ride. There’ll be lots of advice from other riders, and some laughter when you get it wrong ? I can recommend Huddersfield falcons as a friendly club, I used to ride with them for about 15 years before moving to Cornwall a couple of years ago. They have lots of venues at their disposal, many around the Holmfirth area so easy for you to get to, and they do run some ‘dead easy trials’ for beginners to get the bug. good luck & have fun Simon.
  18. Good luck with bleeding the system. I’ve had various levels of success trying all sorts of tips & tricks, but Evo rears are notoriously awkward to bleed. Search on here for loads of tips but also loads of horror stories !
  19. You don’t tell us where you are ? There are loads of reputable specialists in the uk for the regular service items ( like filters, pads, levers, sprockets etc), which advertise their wares on eBay if you can’t be bothered googling who’s nearby. They all post stuff pretty quickly, but compare prices because they can vary considerably. There are also lots of aftermarket manufacturers supplying all sorts of other parts, again search out trials dealers. I think the mudguard will be gas gas dealer only, but probably old stock now if you can find one. I had a 05 pro, and new guards were hard to come by 10 years ago, but there are also specialist trials breakers where you might find secondhand. I think the guards will fit 02 to 08 pro, and then the chassis & frame changed for 09/10 or thereabouts so things were different. Lots of other stuff is interchangeable though across various years & capacities, but check before buying. You can trawl the internet for all the above, but most of the dealers use ebay so it’s like a directory even if you don’t want to buy through it. Good luck.
  20. Could be your clutch plates are stuck together. This can happen when oil soaked friction linings are left under the spring pressure of the clutch for a long period. It might help if you leave it stored for long periods with the clutch lever clamped hard up to the handlebar to take the pressure off the clutch pack. (The downside is this leaves compressed springs which some say can have a weakening effect on them). The gas gas is a unique clutch with a diaphragm spring not traditional coil springs so not sure if that’s still a concern. It probably will free off once you get to start it, but if you really want to free it off beforehand you can drain the oil & separate the clutch pack manually on the bench. No need to bleed it, the slave cylinder is part of the clutch cover, so the hydraulic system stays intact. If you’ve space you can lay the bike on its side to avoid draining oil. There’s plenty of videos out there showing how to strip the gas gas clutch,( Jim snell in USA is the guru on those bikes, look out for his videos) it really isn’t complex.
  21. I’m sure I’ve got a photo or two from when I had one at the age of about 13 or 14 ! It was a step up from an old plunger framed bantam, which to be fair had been reasonably converted for what it was, but I was so jealous of my mates TY175. I’ll post them if I can find them.
  22. So I got the letters bit wrong but the numbers right. It was from memory after finding the details on gas gas USA site I think. There used to be lots of good info there from the legendary Jim Snell, not sure if it’s still available. Sounds like you need mainly service parts which I think you’ll be able to source readily. It’s the ‘unique to model’ parts which become rare like plastics & the more serious engine parts, casings etc. I was surprised to find the electronic clock on the tank still worked on mine. I’d have thought the only thing which might prove tricky to find is the air box lid, but if that is the case there’s always secondhand or maybe your 3D printer mate or some other cobble together fix as a last resort. Good luck & enjoy, if the gardens too small find some other practice venue. The bike is physically the same size as any modern bike but a few kg heavier, just get out & ride it & have fun.
  23. I stand corrected, had a trawl just on TC & found this :-
  24. I would concur that it’s a 97 JTX. I had the 250 (there was also a 270) and it looks the same except for the silencer which I believe was bigger on the 320. Other than that I can see the frames been painted, it would have been chrome, but generally looks very original & tidy. As for the vin number, if remember correctly, it goes V (vin) TR (trials) GG (gas gas) 32 (320cc) 97 (1997 model year) then the rest is manufacture date & number which would make sense that 11/96 was a manufacture date for a 97 model bike. No doubt someone will be along soon to confirm or contradict. Good luck with it. I believe some parts are quite hard to get hold of now, (I struggled to get plastics 10 years ago !) but there’s lots of breakers out there.
  25. I think probably yes, no doubt someone on here will be along to confirm, but I remember a guy years ago using a Honda acty to ferry his ty mono around. I think the Suzuki carry is the modern equivalent ? Always looked a bit of a faff though as it had to fit diagonally & not much room to get around the bike to manoeuvre & secure it etc. I had the same situation & went for the old type Peugeot expert/Citroen dispatch/fiat scudo, which is bit bigger but only same size as a car. I find it great as it’s just long enough to fit the bike straight, and they all come with twin side doors which means wherever you park in the field there’s always a door facing away from the wind & rain for you to get changed or eat lunch etc ! There’s still plenty of them around cheap, mines the bog standard 1.9 diesel which is slow but bullet proof, 2.0 hdi available if you want a bit more poke. I have a curtain instead of a bulkhead & leave it open when there’s nothing inside so would be thieves can see it’s not worth messing with, but close it when the bikes in so it’s not on display & they’d be taking more of a chance if had a go at it. A final point, having a van of any sort at your disposal is such a useful tool for every other fetch & carry job you can think of, without having to mess up your car !
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