dond

The only down side to the small Scorpas is the lack of power for large climbs. I mean large Expert class climbs. Otherwise the Scorpa is light, simple, inexpensive and effective. I have seen a 175 drive right by me on a hill where I stuck on a 250 Beta. I needed to use 3rd gear and work at it to get up and the 175 Longride consistently drove right up in first with no great rider effort. I've also seen Ishy clean a nasty piece of uphill creek on a SY125 where I couldn't do better than a three all day on my Sy250. They are impressive little machines.

I use an NGK plug BPR5ES in my Ossa and Opti2 oil @ 100 to 1. No fouled plugs, revs clean and no problems.

Montesas are still available in North America. I am the Canadian distributor and I believe individuals willing to import from Canada will have very little diffculty doing so. But with the price of the euro and a price increase for the bike in Spain, it is not going to be as cheap as it was. I expect about $9600CDN which as of this moment is $9286US. The 2009s I hope to have in November. Don Doerksen Cascade Motorsports www.cascade-motorsports.com

I guess I am just a 4T kind of guy. I rode a Honda RTL250 for 7 years then switched to a TYZ250 then a Scorpa SY250. As soon as I got on my current 4RT I felt like I had come back home. I rode an 07 GG250 in a trial recently. I can see why people like them. They are light, powerful and want to leap up things. But I was glad to get back on my 4RT. It has all the power I need, feels more stable, hooks up wonderfully in iffy traction situations and has a very plush suspension. It reacts slower than some other bikes and maybe it is just that my reactions are slowing to match. I won't be switching back any time soon.

I have installed a number of those big bore kits. The piston is the standard (not oversize) one from the Honda CB750 single overhead cam (2 valve) engines made from 1969 onwards. The problem is that the compression with that piston is huge. You must use a Sammy Miller head gasket , which is really thick, or use a stack of base gaskets. This increase in cylinder height may also mean you need to use an old cam chain rather than put on the new one at the same time. The Sammy kit is probably easiest in the long run. Note: this mod is only for the old 125 motors with 122cc cast into the base of the barrel

The problem could be the needle and the jet that it goes in and out of. They are called the jet needle and needle jet and are usually sold as a set. What happens over the years is that the jet is worn by the needle going in and out and being vibrated by the air flow. Some times you can see by eye that the hole in the jet is no longer round but oval. Try raising the clip on the needle. If that helps then I would recommend new parts.

You may notice that they don't use CV carbs on serious dirt bikes. The reason is that the slide in the carb is effected by bumps. The vacuum is not enough to hold the slide up when you hit a bump and so the carb will shut down momentarily. I learned this lesson quite painfully some 25 years ago when I put a CV carb on an OSSA. It ran beautifully around the parking lot but coughed dramatically on the first small rock face I tried. Cost me one fingernail! Oh yeh, I remember that.

I have found that when I stall my 4RT abruptly that it will not start readily with the throttle closed. I crack the throttle (1/4 to full open) for one or two kicks, then start normally (throttle closed). Works great for mine and sure beats kicking it 10 or 15 times.

I have fixed a number of those coils by cutting off the wire where it needs to be repaired and inserting a straight pin halfway down the center of the wire. Then I cut of the head of the pin and insert a new wire over the headless end. Put a dab of silicone just where the wires come together in the middle of the pin. Wrap with electrical tape and you are done. If you need to cut the old wire off flush with the coil, use the same technique as previously said but use more silicone for thew final coat. Let the silicone harden before using!

I always used a DPR6EA-9 in my RTL It has a projected tip and I think it will give you the best service. The platinum version would be DPR6EA-9EV. I rarely needed to replace the plug. I tried to remember to do it once a year. Any of those numbers you quoted will work, I just recommend the ones above. It is just not very critical which one you use. Unless you have an oil burning problem, the bike will run fine on any of those plugs.