Probably nothing more than "barrel" distortion (camera lens).
Did notice that the conrod. looks to have been replaced already.........and why two cyl. base gaskets, I wonder ?
Altering the gasket thicknesses or number changes the port timing by moving the barrel upwards in relation to the piston, it also lowers the compression, people do this to change the power characteristics of their two stroke.
I just had a rear brake Evo experience, here is what i found, the master cylinder is only capable of operating the brake, it doesn't have enough travel to adjust the brake, ie push the pistons beyond normal operating travel to compensate for wear in the pads on it's own, I discovered this after doing a caliper clean, solution, stop one pad moving with feeler gauges between pad and disc, pump pedal, that brings the other piston out until it pushes the pad against the disc, then remove feelers, pump pedal again, there is then enough travel to get the other piston out against the pad and disc, it does seem to me that the Master cylinder can not adjust the brake automatically on it's own if there is a large gap between pads and discs, after say maintenance or pushing the pistons back to prep for new pads.
I think it depends how you ride. My 2017 Super Smooth 300 suited me because I like to ride on low revs in higher gears and, if you ride it like this, the engine is incredibly flexible, grippy, torquey, predictable and, well... smooth. I think it is much easier to ride than an early (2001 era) 290 Sherco and easier than a 300 Factory. I'm in my late 40s and not particularly fit. If your riding style is to rev a bike more in lower gears I think even the Super Smooth 300 would be much harder work than a 200. If you wind the revs up a 300 SS still takes off like a scolded cat!
yes, exactly that, i also ride that way, low revs usually in third using the torque of which there is a load.
I tried both 250 and 300 at Inch Perfect test day. As stated above and confirmed by John Lampkin the UK 300 is to SS spec.
I found the best way to assess them was to forget engine size and just focus on how well they rode for me. In doing this, I (old timer clubman rider) found that I couldn't really decide between them. Both were soft and forgiving, no sense of the 300 being too much bike. I did find, though, that the 300 needed more beef to kick start it, perhaps a factor for a not particularly fit rider during a tiring trial.
Never had a problem with starting myself, if you are too knackered to work a kickstart you sure won't make it round a section, and I am a overweight 55 year old woman with very mediocre fitness levels.
The bore has scrape/seize marks, the piston is scored and the piston ring looks to be stuck in the groove, Also the cylinder head has small impact marks from debris collision.I would strip it entirely, check and the big and small end, check the crank bearings, then get a rebore and a new piston and ring set.
The fans not serviceable, fairly likely it has some sort of dead spot, confirm next time it fails when hot by giving it a little nudge with a cautious finger.
I own a 2017 SS300, it's easy to ride in that it doesn't take off like a bat out of hell, instead it's very torquey and you really don't need to use revs which is ideal for my sedate novicey type potterings, I feel it was an ideal choice for me, as far as I know compared to the standard 300 it has lower compression head, heavier flywheel, slow throttle, and a different cdi box (running less advance would be my guess.)
No, do you have clutch slip? do the revs rise yet it goes no faster? that's clutch slip, being 50cc it's never going to be a ball of fire in best form.
I think it'd be wise to just double check the mcyl piston can return all the way out to the rest position first, just to make sure the garage aren't missing the ball.
What is the tank made of? I would be tempted to solder it if it's steel and if it's aluminium then use one of those low temp ally weld sticks and a gas torch, either way you need to flush the tank out thoroughly to remove fumes and fuel. I have had this issue loads of times with vintage gas tanks on old farm engines and repaired without issues.
Keep pulling/pushing it through in the direction it's already gone?
I could continue to tighten the nut - which is what I was doing until I realised it should have stopped by now. Doh!
The sheared head end is wider than the mount hole in the frame which is what it's stuck in so was thinking if I kept moving it through it'll just get stuck in the dog bone bush (the short 'correct' one) and then the mount on the other side.
Perhaps worth a shot though if I can cut it down...
I think if it's pulled through the first frame hole it'll keep going with sufficient force?
Can you get the shock out of the way, then remove the swinging arm and use a bit of studding with one of those long nuts to push the bolt outwards ( pushing against the head of the bolt on the other side), then as it gets close to the back of the footrest hangar cut it, then push again and cut again if needed?
I have a sherco factory 2019 250 .my front brake is always cr.....p. how do I get it ready keen.tried all the bleeding, tapping the cable to get bubbles out.gaffer pads in.it just feels like I alway have to squeeze really hard,and with one finger. Though of the short leavers, haven't done that yet to get more leverage . Sanding the disc up a bit with sand paper.rough the pad up a bit. Disc look ok not polished up.. any ideas. .... chris
Shorter levers will give you less leverage depending on where you pull, the further from the pivot point the finger the more leverage you get but the lever will move further at the point of finger contact.
Might be that with thin pads the pistons were out far enough to tip a little to one side and jam slightly, with the rear brake you must make sure that with the pedal relaxed there is no pressure at all on the mcyl push rod, you need to be able to "rattle" the lever up and down a bit without it moving the pushrod, any pressure on it blocks the fluid return to the reservoir and binds the brake.
I have had two strokes do this, remove exhaust, tip it out. It builds up over time, I used to find after riding my TY 250 on the road at higher speeds the oil in the system would get really hot and smoke like crazy even for a while after turning off the motor.
did I just break that engine ?
in Bultaco
Posted
Altering the gasket thicknesses or number changes the port timing by moving the barrel upwards in relation to the piston, it also lowers the compression, people do this to change the power characteristics of their two stroke.