My guess with the arm would be incorrect assy by someone, or perhaps something left out, it should be possible to tighten it without tightening, as for the bottoming out, is the shock the right one? or perhaps the linkages have been assembled incorrectly./
I think with the rear suspension, you are going to need to get the bike up and remove the rear wheel, then the shock and manually push and pull the swinging arm and linkages to check for binding, what you describe could be typical of a bent piston rod in the shock.
The only issue I see with lay off would be fuel going off, experience tells me that you'd be ok for a good six months or so minimum with it in a fuel tank.
Everything ok with a genuine battery? if so I would just send this one back, anything chinese can have some very bad build quality issues and even safety issues.
Firstly the little hose, it's a breather hose, the holes need to be there or you will get a vacuum in the float chamber and the fuel won't come out the jets properly, you have 2 options, replace it as is but make sure you cut a nick in it to let it breathe, or run a new hose off each side down the back of the engine and just leave the ends open. Now the choke question, with this system which is basically an additional jet opened by a plunger, the initial mixture is very rich, as the engine runs it tends to lean off a bit and the revs rise usually it's time to turn it off at this point, obviously I can't say without listening if yours is excessive, but this is normal behaviour on all makes of bike using this system.
There's a huge difference between sedate clubman type use and balls out 8 foot rock steps revving and clutching, this will make a huge difference to wear levels, as for pistons and rings etc, if it rattles fix it, I do stuff like greasing linkages/bearings etc twice a year, air filter gets cleaning every ride (I run two).
When you buy a chain you have to pick one of sufficient length to fit your bike, often you will need to remove some links to tailor it to your machine, this is done with a grinder usually. You will probably want a 520 by however many links yours is, you may well have to buy longer and cut it down as mentioned.
So plug out, and bare HT end held 5mm from engine metal, kick it, if the spark can't make 5 mm then you got a problem, this is a reliable ignition indicator test.
If you restrict the return in anyway I would think you might have problems with oil build up in the cases, as said valve gear just needs to be wet, if it's excessively noisy then check the usual things, sloppy rocker bushings, worn rocker pads, worn lobes on the camshaft, sloppy lifter bores,worn guides and of course clearances.
A bit fiddly but patience does it. If there was such a thing as a ninety degree feeler gauge it would be easier. Access to the valve covers is fairly straightforward. There is a special tool to turn the adjuster but it can be done with an open ended spanner of the right size.
There is, just not widely available, Snap on make them, I had a set once. You can bend a normal one.
Check the spark from the end of the lead to engine metal, if it can't make 5mm at least at kicking speed you have a problem, also try another plug, they can look fine out of engine but then under compression just die. Also with the plug out dribble a bit of premix into the plug hole, put the plug back in and give it a kick see if it fires at all.
Ty 250 mono help please
in Yamaha
Posted
My guess with the arm would be incorrect assy by someone, or perhaps something left out, it should be possible to tighten it without tightening, as for the bottoming out, is the shock the right one? or perhaps the linkages have been assembled incorrectly./