betabantam

I am by no means a pro but have managed to increase riding significantly through weight training. I had a trainer set out a programme, but after experimentation found that it depends how naturally strong or fit you are. If you are losing more marks towards the end of the trial then your endurance and fitness needs improving. Aim to train 3-4 times a week keep all sessions below 1 hour, train at high intensity. 1 day train strength, next train endurance/ fitness. You are looking for power/ weight ratio but fit enough to complete trial with no drop in performance at end of trial. You do not want a body builder physique as you do not need bulk and may impede flexibility. Work on core strength and try to simulate bike movements in the gymn. Hope this helps.

I went to the BVM for the 200 and came away with the 270? How did that happen. Having just been on another 200, the 200 feels lighter and is a much softer power delivery. The actual wet weight is only 1-2kg lighter depending on year of bike, but when riding does feel a lot lighter due to the smaller engine and flywheel. Do not mistake the soft power delivery for lack of power, it is just far more controllable. Unless you are riding 4th gear National sections the 200 will do everything you need.

I am about to have a front wheel built up by Central wheels . Is it best to go for WM1 or WM2 width, do they give a different profile on a Michelin tubed eg. the WM2 wider width rim gives a squarer trread profile? Thanks.

I ride a bantam that has a 428 chain fitted and have a cub with a 420 fitted. Whilst riding these in trials i have had people comment on 'you don't need a 428 they run better with a 420 and vice versa when running the cub with 420. I only use these sizes as that is what the bike come with. I am now replacing the Bantam chain and sprockets, is there a noticeable difference n performance or chain/ sprocket life between 420 and 428?

Tried everyhing and ended up with POR15 from the states, comes in a pint tin but goes a long way. Not cheap but it has lasted 7 trials to date included jet washed and not a mark. Started with POR15 zinc primer. You are looking at

Cheers guys. i'll stick with the tried and tested mineral oils with the wet clutch in the gearbox and i think it has to lubricate the main brgs. as well in a bantam.

Most people use a mineral 20/50 in the gearbox casing. Has anybody tried a modern synthetic or semi-synthetic bike oil suitable for wet clutches . I am particularly concerned about the effect on the cork friction rings between the steel plates. What quantities are people using. Have heard anything from .5 to a full pint. Any comments.

I have had the Serco mod. but the springs for the fantic are not high enough spring rate to return the front end ride height on a cub. Does anyone know or tried higher rate springs for the extra weight of a cub over Fantic. I have already tried the WES multi-rate - no good and played with different oil weights and levels for hours!!

Thanks for the contacts. Are the progressive springs better than single rate, I do not know anyone that has tried them.

Does anyone know where i can get some replacement fork springs for the Marzocchi forks. Forks are 35mm. I can get some made up from a local spring supplier but that is expensive. I won't bore you with all the individual dimensions just after a supplier. Thanks.

It depends what your purpose is, if you just want a Sunday ride out in a trial go for a cheap 19" tyre. However 95% of your pre-65 competitors will be on IRC/Michelin soft compound and the sections are laid out as such. If you want to be competitive, and enjoy yourself more you need the right tyres. I spent my first few trials battling around on some knackered tyres and it was hard work, switched to IRC's and it was much more enjoyable. You will be ok in dry trials but they are few and far between in the UK.

i went to casualty after 2stroke high speed karting crash, thought i'd fractured a rib. They wouldn't even x-ray as i wasn't coughing or p****ng blood. Baly bruised rib can be more painful than a fracture ???Bad news, 10 weeks before i could kart again as the force going round corners pressed straight onto the rib, though could ride bike after 6.

I would stick to your MP forks. I ride in the BMCA and the two things they particularly look at are forks and hubs. Though they probably would let you ride in a specials class but then you are riding against yourself! Ossa forks/ yokes would be frowned upon. I have been temptd myself but advised against.

I was in exacetely your position. I had several goes on the 200 and 250. The 200 is the easiest to ride, feels lighter and certainly better for Novice / Clubman use. The 270 has a lot more torque but when you open the throttle can get you into trouble easy. the end of the day it depends on what level of rider you and what you are looking for in a bike. The bikes power delivery are very different. Try and ride them at your local club before buying. If not find a dealer that has 2nd hand ones in stock and ride all three back to back, worth travelling for. I bought the 270 but it feels far more powerful than the 200/250 and made my first off a big one! Still think the 270 is best for me though will rarely have the throttle on its stop.

Thanks will lean off mixture. Tried putting finger in spark plug hole but engine wouldn't start???...guess there wasn't enough spark in my finger. Took it back to BVM turns out the jet and breather pipe was blocked so both replaced FOC. Seems OK now.