bikerpet

The funny thing is the Formula Seal Change manual indicates to always replace the lower bush, however for me the lower bush remained in good condition, it was the upper that got damaged. Maybe best to have both on hand!

I'm definitely no expert at this, a bit of a beginner indeed. However as I've been working on the same skills a few things have helped me, maybe they'll help others. 1. This video talks of a "touch up". Probably what might be called a double blip more than a zap, but I consider that if I use clutch it's a zap (rightly or wrongly, I don't care - works for me). I found that rather than dropping the front wheel into the obstacle it was easier to get the timing together if I hit the obstacle on the rise. Interestingly after watching this then watching Trials GP this actually looks more like what the pro's do most of the time rather than dropping the wheel onto the obstacle. 2. I spent a bit of time doing stationary zaps on a tiny obstacle - maybe 150 - 200mm (6-8") high. Gave me the confidence to really drop the clutch and have a few revs, and also get the movement and timing dialled in a bit better without any significant consequences. I had a tiny rocky step, a large curb would be similar. 3. As the Ryan Young/Pat Smage zap video above says, I find it easier to ride into it with the clutch slipping, then drop the clutch for the zap. Heaps easier for bumbly's like me to get the timing compared to clutch out/in/out. 4. As also mentioned above, closing the throttle when dropping the clutch makes a big difference to the pop/lift. It does however rely on having enough revs up to carry the bike up to the top. Point 2. gave me the confidence to actually bring the revs up a bit closer to what's needed. Still a bit scared of too many revs, but getting better bit by bit. EDIT: Out of interest I took sample out of the Young/Smage Zap video and tracked the front axle path to check that what I think happens actually does happen. And yes, the front wheel hits the object whilst on the rise.

Beware that at least on the steel forks removing the upper bushing as shown will destroy the teflon lining. The lower bush slips up inside the edge of the upper and scrapes the teflon off. The lower bush does not appear to get damaged.

So I got a new spring and fitted it. 15 shifts later it was the same as before Assuming it was the terrible manufacture of the spring at fault (there is a significant crimp at the inside of the bends, one leg consistently worse than the other) and the new spring was busted, I ordered another. Meanwhile I jury rigged a bungy from the bash guard slots to the lever as a temp. return spring - worked pretty well really. New spring arrived and yesterday I tore down again only to find the spring intact. Hmmm. It seems it had just jumped off the boss in the case. The boss is in good condition, I can see a slight groove toward the back corner from where I assume the spring has been the past years. Double checking the Splatshop and Tear Down PDF pictures I decided I had the bushing on the shaft the wrong way around, there is a very slightly thicker flange one side that appears to go toward the shift arm. Swapped that around, held it up in front of the splatshop pic to check it looked the same, reinstalled everything, new fluids again, checked it was all working nicely in the shed and away we go. Got at least 8 shifts out of it this time The boss looks nice and absolutely undamaged except perhaps for these slight grooves down near the back of it - they look as if they would be an advantage if anything. There is no end play to mention in the shift shaft, so I don't think there's any problem there - the stop on the clutch housing that prevents the shaft moving right is in good condition, barely a mark where the shift shaft touches. I read in another thread that someone had trouble when they used a thinner clutch housing gasket and it caused the shaft to bind, I'm using the original still and the lever feels free moving, so I don't think this is the case here. Can't really think of anything else to look for. So before I get into it for the third time has anyone got any particular experience they might share to enlighten me how to make the b-----y thing stay where it's supposed to be? All I can think is that I need to somehow push the spring to the back of the boss in the hope that the slight grooves there hold it in place. TIA

Thanks everyone. 2 options I'll keep in mind: Do nothing. Or try the oko spring in a month or so. I'm sure this is just a personal preference thing, no right or wrong answer. For a few dollars it's no big deal to experiment anyway.

It just feels too loose/light. I reckon I can control it just the same as the Dellorto, just not the same feel. A feedback thing I think - doesn't feel like there's any feedback through the hand. I swapped the S3 grip for a Renthal yesterday - the S3 was bigger diameter. That has very lightly improved the throttle feel, although I quite liked the larger diameter for my hand size. Probably should just get used to it like thousands of others have. Apparently the OKO springs fit and are a bit stiffer, so a couple of options now.

No, I don't want it slower, I want a bit more feel against the spring - just what I've got used to I guess. Feel and response are different things I reckon. Just like slowing suspension compression damping isn't the same as stiffening the spring - well sort of similar anyway.

Mikegas - thanks for that lead on springs. Have you tried them out? Any comments on how much difference each makes? I expect the medium is all I'm after. anotherfive - hadn't thought of that - is there room in there to pack out without restricting the slide opening? And as for Raga, therein lies the problem - the left hand is accurate OK, most often accurately in the wrong place! This makes it hard to get away with the right hand.

I've just moved onto a Sherco with Keihin PWK carb, from a GasGas with Dellorto. I'm finding the throttle very light on the Keihin and a bit easy to wind on too far! Does anyone know if there is a stiffer spring available? Or perhaps a spring that could be coerced to fit? I've had a search but not found anything that mentions being stiffer. In reality I probably just need to get used to it, but I reckon I'll scare myself less with a throttle more suited to a heavy-handed user.

Dragging up an old topic, but seemed better to keep this all together rather than starting a new one. My 2013 Sherco has the factory installed plastic stops and the chamfered lower fork clamp - and still got a dent in the frame. The plastic stops are OK for the minor damage from turning to full lock, but not for bigger offs. The fork chamfer doesn't quite match the angle of the frame, so still a point contact, at least until the frame dents to match , it also seems to have the effect of pushing the plastic stop up and out of the way in a hard impact. I have removed the rather useless plastic "paint protector" and replaced it with 2 inches of half section 1" stainless tube siliconed to the frame. Using silicone allowed me to sit the tube so it aligns with the chamfer on the fork to spread the load, and provides some clearance for the stainless to dent a little (and absorb some energy) in a big crash without damaging the frame beneath. Not much time on it yet so still to be proven, but I'm optimistic. I think it has increased the turning lock very slightly and I reckon it looks pretty good too. Sorry about the blurry photo, didn't notice it was blurry until uploading it here.

This is the gasket you mean? https://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-clutch-case-gasket-2011.html Sherco part 3135 Thanks

Dragging up an old topic here sorry. I'm about to buy a 2013 2.9 with a broken spring (planning on taking off the side cover with the owner to check for damage, then if all's well take the bike and do the work at home), I'd like to order all the bits I need before I get the bike so I can do the work promptly. Besides the spring, do I need new gaskets? I can't quite figure out if I only need to take off the plastic cover that I believe has an O-ring seal, or if I also need the "clutch gasket M036"? No doubt all will be revealed once I have the bike in front of me. While I'm in there I plan on doing the "Beta clutch fix" and improve the clutch feel and sticking too.

I decided I'd better carry a spare kill switch magnet cap in case the worst happens at an inopportune time. $25 for a new one, or fire up the CAD, borrow a mate's 3D printer and bingo. If anyone cares to print more it is available on Thingiverse: Magnetic Stop / Kill switch top Leonelli Apico Jitsie I tweaked the design a bit so a bootlace fits through the hole, avoiding the tiddly bit of string. Also included a bead to tighten the lanyard on your wrist. Common 10 x 5mm disc magnet (approx $1) slips in and just melt the lip to hold it. I found melting the surfaces of the lanyard and squashing them together made a solid & neat join.

I've looked and looked at "top left" but for the life of me can't find the forum rules. I'm using Chrome browser. Maybe they've moved? Could someone point me to the right place please. Thanks.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I took a punt on the advice of The Hell Team and bought a new coil/ignition unit. Problem fixed. My old unit was way off the specs given in the Hell Team resistance chart - mostly way high (double or triple) so I figured this was the likely culprit. Interesting to see that it seems split between people who report the regulator being the common problem and others saying the coil/ignition unit gives trouble. Sounds like both have their flaws! I'm now gradually digging all the green potting out of the old ignition unit to see if I can find the faulty component - at the price of these things I can invest a few hours in research! If anyone has already investigated this I'd love to hear from you. If I eventually clean it up and find a faulty component I'll report back. It's not particularly hard digging it out - cut apart the black case then with a plastic chisel quietly dig away. Not sure my electronics skills will be up to isolating the fault if it's not obvious though.

This is another no-spark problem. I've done a fair bit of searching and found various references, but I'm still missing information that I'm hoping others can provide. Background - secondhand 07 GG TXT Pro 250. Been going OK for the past few months since I've had it, starts pretty easily. About a month ago I fitted lights (GG original headlight, LED tail/brake. Fitted my own wiring rather than try to sort through the various existing connectors) ready to get Recreational Registration on it, all seemed OK. Yesterday I fitted an additional LED number plate light. Tested OK in the garage. Yesterday I went for a ride (more of a trail than trials ride). Dropped the bike (low speed, very minor) and found the carb overflows loosing lots of fuel after standing it up. Hard to start. Rode a bit further and found it tended to die/miss a bit when popping the throttle for logs. Stoped the bike to help my son and couldn't get it to start. When I checked the fuel tank I found the breather had locked closed and lots of pressure in the tank. Topped up tank to be sure. Bike would fire a few times then die. Eventually gave up and walked/towed the bike back to the long descent. Once rolling downhill tried roll starting. At first it would fire once, then it gave up totally. 1/2 km of roll start attempts at good speed downhill but nothing doing. Trailered it home. Checked it at home, no spark. So far I've tried: New plug disconnect kill switch disconnect all lights check HT lead resistance (7.3 Kohm) check trigger coil resistance (259 ohms) check trigger voltage spinning engine with drill (1.5 Vac - this seems low?) check yellow (main windings) stator wire to ground (1.2 ohms) check voltage from yellow wire when spinning modest RPM (500?) (15V) removed regulator from circuit and connected yellow from stator to yellow to CDI (these are direct connected internally in the regulator) removed the potting from the back of the regulator to check the diodes that are reported to fail, there was some slight discolouration on the potting in that area (both check OK). I have an ignition that matches the 2003 Ducati Digital diagram. I've found various posts that give resistance and voltage figures for the ignition with two sets of stator windings, but not for this version. So now I'm a bit stuck. I don't know how to isolate the problem further. I'm suspecting one of the following: Trigger coil faulty - the references to the early version ignition suggest the resistance should be higher than I'm reading.Jim Snell mentions these are the most common failure in these systems. CDI/coil faulty - others indicate this is the most common failure. Regulator faulty - currently trying to work out how best to test this. Doesn't seem likely given that the bike wont go even with the regulator totally bypassed. Trouble is I really don't know how to test these to isolate which is giving the trouble. Or I'm missing something and it's something else :-) In the interest of helping others, here are other links I've found that help shed some light on this problem. Regulator diode repair - I believe the diodes are p600 power diodes, but someone else might verify that. Resistance readings (older style ignition) Jim Snell on revisions not actually useful for diagnostics, but sheds some light on what's out there. Pickup coil meter readings and replacement The Hell Team resistance chart