jse

As an aside, I know Jon (JSE) has been keeping an eye on this thread... Firstly, thank you for the wiring diagrams on trialspartsusa, they were most helpful. Secondly, why does Leonelli supply parts with two wires the same colour and seemingly no indication as to which is which? Its probably obvious if you know what you're doing, but I don't and two yellow wires is confusing? Jim Snell, the GG parts importer for the U.S. makes those schematics and has collected all the info on his website. He's a wealth of information and happily, he's willing to share it with everybody. Not quite sure what Leonelli module you mean but usually the types of connectors dictate what is connected to what. "you know what you're doing".....you give me way too much credit... Jon

You may have damaged the internals in the shift drum. This didn't happen, by chance, after an encounter with a rock? I'd check for a broken shift centering spring/ top hat bar first (under the clutch basket)as, hopefully, this is the problem and not the more expensive cause. Jon

Another thing to keep in mind is to not over-tighten the axles. Use the factory spec.'s and, as you should do with all fasteners on a competition bike, check them once in a while. Over-tightening the axle will put an excessive side load on the bearing, which it is not designed to handle. Jon

I have a video of the program somewhere in my collection, it was wild. Both riders are great showmen. Jon

Reportedly, some new bikes (RAGA and Economy) have arrived at the shipping port in U.S. Should have 2012 photos on the GG USA site sometime, maybe sooner on UK sites. Jon

I imagine we can stray off a little and anyone who wants to put us back on target can chime in. From what I understand, there are three choices as you describe. Not a lot of difference but the change is noticeable. For instance, in 2T stadium racing quads I would run a 21cc chamber at sea level and a 19cc chamber at the Denver, Colorado races (one mile altitude change). Static timing is not adjustable normally in the Pro's and mapping is handled by progammed electronics in the CDI module. For higher altitude you might want to set the switch to the "sun" setting (more agressive mapping advance)as due to the lack of available Oxygen and lesser barometric pressure, you need to start the combustion process a little sooner. This would also include using lower octane fuel, which burns faster than race fuel in most cases and part of the reason that the high octane pump fuel available in the Colorado mountain area is two points lower than the high octane fuel available on the "flatlands" here in the U.S. The riders I know who have used the high-comp inserts have not had to re-jet from what they tell me. A rider who has used the lower-comp insert said he did not have to re-jet. I'm assuming that the overall configuration (which would include squish clearance, differences in piston/squish band angles, squish band width and radius measurement at the squishband/center chamber transition), other than volume in the center hemi chamber, is essentially the same in all three heads. Jon

David, There are other tuning possibilities. A lower compression insert will yield easier starting and a smoother power delivery. Installing more base gaskets will do the same, but at the cost of altered port timing and excessive squish clearance. A higher compression insert will make the power come on quicker and stronger, which may suit higher level riders so the two-piece head has applications in a lot of areas. Jon

David, I don't think you're talking rubbish. It was not really a big problem and the first time I had heard of the o-ring causing difficulty. The importer has ordered a shipment of them for the future and the parts importer has been really responsive to dealers needs in my experience. Considering they carry parts dating back to the 80's and how many parts there are in each model since then, they do an amazing job. The two-piece head with replaceable combustion chamber is a very valuable tuning tool and the concept has been around for some time and is well-proven. A lot of us are heading to Colorado next month for the Ute Cup 2-day Trial held at 8,000-13,000 ft altitude and the S3 head with a high-compression chamber insert will be a big help with engine performance. Jon

Not to worry, I didn't even think you were taking a dig at GasGas (those aluminum drainplugs are fragile in my opinion and the aluminum washers need to be replaced now and then or they crush out), I was speaking in gereral terms. I apologize as I'm really not as cranky as the e-mail sounded and I was infering that the previous owner had probably set you up for the stripping problems. Make sure the overflow tube off the radiator cap is not squished by the fuel tank as this will cause pressure to force coolant past an otherwise good seal. I didn't see what year your bike was? Oh, and tomorrow will be a better day.... Jon

I hate to get on my soapbox again, but the #1 reason for stripped out drainplugs and Allen capscrews (there is no Loctite on either one from the factory) is old Allen wrenches. They wear with age and should be dressed (take about 5mm off the end) now and then to keep the side flutes sharp. To get the capscrew and drainplug out, use a Torx bit and tap it in and then you can unscrew the screw/plug out (and re-install till you get new one). A T-45 Torx works on the drainplug and maybe a T-25 Torx on the 4mm head capscrews (not positive on that but a T-15 Torx works on a 3mm capscrew). Jon, off the soapbox now... ps. If you have a new bike with the S3 two-piece head, also check for coolant loss at the top by the plug. I just had one of our clubmembers bikes in the shop that was leaking coolant past the o-ring that seals the combustion chamber insert to the outer piece. It slowly drooled coolant down the front of the cylinder so it wasn't noticed by the rider till it overheated. The standard S3 o-rings were not available here in the U.S. yet so I used one of slightly larger core diameter and it worked fine.

I couldn't find a schematic but you might try: http://www.gasgasmotos.es/ and in the 2001/2000 EC300 downloadable parts manual it shows the components/wiring and their relationships, that may help. Jon

Neat. I look forward to your parade photos/videos every year, it's been a bunch of years since I was up there in those mountains. That was the Boulder Creek parade? Doesn't Kipp get a little miffed at you guys treating his car that way? Jon

I'm guessing a broken tab on the "top hat" that the centering spring is on (under the clutch basket). If it's that, it's a good thing as it kept the shock from being transfered to the internals in the shift drum or the shaft forks (both expensive to replace). Jon

Very nice. Everything looks well thought out and execution is quite good. Jon

A great bunch of riders, all the way around. I've been watching the newer riders at the Nationals and they have all progressed at an amazing rate. Keith has a lot of experience he can share with the Men's team members. Louise, Sarah, Caroline and Rachel make an outstanding Women's team. They will represent us well. Jon

Dave, You need to find the source of the leak first as the solution will relate to the cause. If you can't find the leak, that also will be good information for us to base advice on. Jon

Awww, Charley, you're not that old. 32:1 is generally standard for the high-performance 2T MX engines even now. However, I do miss the smell of BlendZall Gold Label...... Jon

I thought everything was supposed to be big in Texas.... Jon

Schaden Freuden, or just being able to relate, having had same experience....often.... Jon

Trials bikes are configured to run cleanly at certain RPM/load conditions and, as such, they tend to go lean at WFO throttle settings. Combustion temps quickly spike and "autoignition" ensues. To stop a runaway engine I take off one glove, wad it in the other hand and cover the exhaust exit. When the RPMs drop down, the killswitch will often work then. To keep from getting zapped by the killswitch, use a two-wire type like a KX or YZ that grounds at the CDI ground and not a one-wire that grounds on the handlebar (makes me think of my old Bultaco days and riding a wet Trial, never had to worry about going to sleep during the event.....). Jon

Richard, You probably want to change to a BPR5ES plug (or better yet, a BPR5EIX) set to .6mm gap. The "6" generally is better in the air-cooled Trials models which run a little hotter. 70/1 premix is fine and you'll find that a full-synthetic oil burns cleaner, as opposed to a synthetic-blend or mineral base oil. Since your bike is 14+ years old and probably has been run in fairly "rough" conditions as Trials bikes usually are, it might be a good idea to "service" the electrical system by cleaning the connections and grounds, cutting 5mm off the end of the plug wire that goes into the plug cap (provides new contact) and generally checking things over to make sure the system is putting out power as best it can. Jetting should be in the neighborhood of: MAIN: 114 PILOT: 36 (38 OK) NEEDLE: D36 (2nd CLIP POSITION DOWN FROM THE TOP) SLIDE: 60 FUEL SCREW: 3.5 TURNS OUT FLOAT HEIGHT: ARMS IN LEVEL PLANE WITH FLOAT BOWL BASE (PARALLEL) GasGas models in that era were designed to run on 95 octane fuel but fuel octane ratings should have little to do with your oiling problem. I'd check jetting to start as that will provide a baseline for other possibilities and always consider the fact that a previous owner may have reamed out the jets with wire to "clean" them and thereby enlarging them. Don't assume a jet is accurate as to it's stamped number if it is a used bike. Jon

Just got my 2008 SSDT Trials Central video (thanks, John!) this afternoon and got to watch a little of it. Some great video of the loop between the sections on it. Jon

Provided you didn't take any of the cartridge/spring unit apart, my first guess is possible binding in the fork/clamp assembly. To see if this might be the case, loosen the axle clamps, fork brace and lower tripleclamp capscrews and then push up/down on the forks to see if that makes a significant difference. This would eliminate an external cause for the symptoms and is a simple test to do before taking everything apart again. Jon

1.7 to 1.9 oz. per U.S. Gallon (80/1...70/1) of a full-synthetic premix oil, like Castrol TTS, seems to work well under most conditions. Jon ps. As to the hard starting, you need to look at starting a Trials bike a little different from starting other bikes. Trials engines have, for their size, massive flywheels and it takes a different technique to start them. You need to use body weight rather than leg muscle and jabbing at the kickstart will only result in damage to the kickstart mechanism in most cases (that flywheel will resist turning quickly and the racheting mechanism will take the brunt of the force).

Be sure to check the "top out spring" above the piston, that's what acts as a bumper when the forks extend quickly. It's probably o.k. but has had to work overtime due to the lack of rebound damping. Be very careful when holding the cartridge to take the caps off as not to compress the tubing walls, otherwise, the internals are relatively simple in the Marzocchi's. Jon