jse

Since the accuracy of the bore diameter measurement is dependent on the technical skill of the person doing the work, a better way is to check the top of the piston or better yet, the base gasket surface of the cylinder for a letter marking. It will be "A", "B" etc. Usually on an 11 year old engine with the original plating, you can go to the next "oversize" so if you have a "B" cylinder, you can use a "C" piston. Jon

I have a TY350, 1985, that did not come with the remote but added a mount for the shock I built, so it will work. I used a piece of muffler tubing cut lengthwise and a small brace. I can pull the reservoir to give a better view if you need it. Jon

Mike, Here's a shot of my 02' Kokusan CDI system but you probably have the Ducati digital system so here's Jim Snell's diagram of the 03'. Jon

Wow! That brought back some memories. For those that don't know, Santa Catalina is a small island about 26 miles off the Southern California coast and I think the last Catalina GP was over 50 years ago. As I remember, the old race was covered in the Peter Starr film "Take It To The Limit". Thanks for sharing! Jon

Mike, I've got an 02' Pro which should be just about the same (Kokusan CDI and in-line thermoswitch). I'll pull my tank off a little later today and give you the color coding and take a photo if that will help. Jon

Mike, What year is your bike? Jon

Each engine is a little different and although most bikes seem to be happy with a 116-118, yours may need a 120, especially in the area where you ride. If it runs a little rich in the mid-range on the 120, you can probably drop the needle down a little to clean it up. Jon

"and steaming mound"

I agree, they should not make a top-out sound and something could be broken, mis-assembled or just missing. I'm guessing that possibly the "top-out" spring inside the cartridge, just above the piston may be broken but you would think they would pick up on that when checking after servicing. Jon

Cody has worked hard for it and I'm glad to see he did well and for Beta to support him. I'm also glad to see Graham Jarvis at the top again. I'm sure the Extreme Enduro crowd will know who he is next time. Jon

That's normal and the reason you want to put the sidecover back on when the bike is on it's side. If the bike is upright, it's easy to get one or two fingers caught on the wrong side of the servo cylinder flange. As an aside, when assembling the clutch, just before tightening up the 10 screws, I like to pull up on all the fingers to make sure they are "centered" and move easily and then tighten the screws alternating on opposite sides of the pressure plate. I go around once to snug them up and then a last time to the final torque setting. Jon

Didn't someone re-cover the stock seat base and pull the home made cover down the sides for some reason? Jon

Wayne, I imagine you could have it welded, but I'd also check the mechanism to find out why it wore on one side. The arm is possibly bent to one side and you will also want to make sure that it is straight to avoid future wear. Take the shift lever off and making sure the arm is unlatched from the roller, you will find that it pulls out easily. If it does not slide out easily, you may have a bent shaft, which may have contributed to the arm misalignment. Check the shaft to make sure it's not bent and if it is, it might be better to replace the arm/shaft, which will solve both problems (worn arm/bent shaft). Jon

Glad to hear that. I've had contact with hundreds of UK riders and have only heard good things about JS and especially Factory Kev. Jon

You're in luck Glenn, I doubt you'd have to strap the Fantic down to the dyno. Plug indexing works best for offset plug location in combustion chambers (especially in four-strokes due to valve intrusion) and most Trials two-strokes use central location. I also use the NGK Iridium plugs in both the Pro and TY's. They don't add performance, they just keep it consistant. Jon

Always a possibility, but o-ring failures in the servo cylinder are very rare from my experience. Jon

Don't ride it until you pull the drain plug and check for gear teeth particles. It might be as simple as a bent shift fork or as bad as a broken gear. There could be a problem with the shift mechanism but I would advise not to even start the engine until you find out what's wrong. A broken gear could cause VERY expensive damage. Jon

That's been my experience also as the fairly high compression and porting arrangement of Trials engines lead to autocombustion fairly quickly. Usually I've found that to avoid damage to the engine something has to be done quick and moving the bike can be time consuming and/or dangerous. Since I'm right handed, I'll quickly take off my left glove, wad it in my right gloved hand and cap the exhaust, which usually drops the RPM's down to the point the kill switch then works and I avoid burns to my hand. Jon

The stock pegs (and most pegs of that era) are arch killers, as you probably remember! I thought about a longer top to the case guard but figured (possibly wrong) that the heavy ball-bearing hard roller I made just before it would take some of the hit. I'll take a second look at that, thanks. Good idea on the front bash plate modification. We have more big rocks in North Eastern Oklahoma than Scotland has bogs (well, maybe not) and that may be my next project. Cheers for the tips. Jon

That is probably the first thing to do as finger height has a direct affect on the engagement range, although on a new bike this (clutch pack out of spec.) would be somewhat unusual so soon. Another "trick" for a smoother engagement is to change the fluid (mineral oil in your case) to DOT-5. You will need to completely flush the system but I convert all my bike's clutches to DOT-5 and it's a little time consuming but easy to do. DOT-5 is Silicone base and very common in military vehicles for various reasons, but racers avoid using it in competition braking systems as it results in brakes that feel "spongy" because it is very slightly compressible, unlike the DOT-3, 4, 5.1 series fluids. I've found that it makes clutch engagement feel a lot smoother (it also has good lubricity) and it's easier to modulate the lever to search for traction in loose sections. Upper level riders usually like a clutch more digital rather than analog, but for the rest of us it's a choice we have. Jon

Provided you got all the air out of the line (and that usually is a bear of a job, but you say you get pressure at first) I'm wondering if maybe there's something in the master cylinder bore, perhaps a manufacturing defect, that is affecting the seal of the piston. I'd inspect the bore for any problems next to eliminate that as a possible cause. Jon

A #120 in a PHBL should be slightly rich in most cases. To start with, I'd pull the carb and do a jetting map, recording what exactly is in your carb, rather than assuming and that way you would have an idea of where to go. If the knocking is at partial throttle (most of us rarely ride at full throttle), raising the needle might solve the problem. The fuel screw is set by engine demand rather than a set amount (which is why the screw is adjustable). I set mine by warming the engine up and quickly open/close the throttle and adjust the screw in/out to get the best response (sometimes a 1/4 turn rich after that is somewhat better). Jon

Coxy, If you disconnect the lever and use a Phillips screwdriver to pump the M/C, do you get any pressure? Jon

If you use the kickstart lever as a tool to push/turn/latch the racheting mechanism it's a little easier. I think there's usually a collar that acts to keep the coil spring from distorting and it usually has a slot in it that sometimes gets out of alignment and the shaft will not seat in completely. Jon