jse

Cool! Can't wait to hear Billy's stories when I see him at the Ute Cup! Jon

The screw in the center of the carb body adjusts the slide stop and is to set the tickover speed. Be sure to adjust the tickover with the engine warm, bike in gear and the clutch pulled back normally, which is usually with one finger back to the knuckles (not fully back to the grip). This way you adjust for clutch drag and reduce stalling. The other screw is to fine-tune the off-idle response (a "mixture screw" in this case) and there is no absolute correct setting for it, in spite of what some may tell you (that's why it's adjustable and not factory set). The mentioned settings are a starting point only and that screw is used to adjust the carb response under changing ambient weather conditions (the off-idle throttle response is a complicated "proceedure" and there are several "circuits" that have an influence on it and they all overlap). Once you get the hang of it, it's fairly easy to do. First, very lightly bottom out the screw (screwing it in hard will damage the needle and seat). Turn it out about 3 turns, the number of turns is not critical, you could start with 2, for instance. With the engine warm and in neutral, quickly open and close the throttle ("blip it" as we say in the States) and then adjust the screw in or out to start. When you go too far either way, the engine will start to bog so then you go back the other way until the engine responds perfectly. That is the "correct" setting. The "recommended" number of turns-out for the mixture screw will work well in most cases (but not all engines) but if you want your engine to run it's best under a variety of conditions, you'll take the 30 seconds now and then it takes to check the mixture setting. Unlike the other forms of motorcycle sport, Trials riding places a huge demand on the carb's ability to constantly adjust the air/fuel ratio in the idle-to-half throttle range. Jon

Just to throw in a little extra information (I know, I can't help myself), that shock "bumper" is an important part of the rear suspension system and it's good to check it's condition once in a while. With the MX and SX modification and set-up of shocks we will use a variety of bumpers depending on the track and rider. The density, length/width and profile (some bumpers act in "stages" depending on the shape) have an important effect on the last quarter of shock travel, not just as a bottoming-out damper. I totally agree with arnoux, time spent setting up suspension correctly will pay back huge rewards in the future. It doesn't have to be perfect at the start, only in the ballpark as the components need a little "break-in" time. I've always thought it a little interesting that riders will spend countless hours getting their engine to respond perfectly but then ignore their suspension settings and maintenance schedules, thereby picking up many needless points (and frustration). Jon

I think he bought an extra seat on the Concord for it to have it's own safety belt..... Jon

I sent for Dan's DVD and it is a good, basic introduction to Trials riding. Ryan's is still my favorite but I would also recommend Dan's video without reservation. I too would like to see Dan come out with an advanced version. Dan is one of my favorite commentators on the Trials videos I have (Woody is my absolute favorite and besides, who could pull off wearing a bright pink riding outfit at the 92' SSDT and look good doing it..... ). I don't ride in competition any more but like to keep up on the training videos as I take all the new riders out at their first few Trials events to help get them started and the videos give me some good pointers to pass on to the newcomers. Jon

Good news. While we're on the subject of circlips, here's a couple of hints: Most know there's a sharp and dull side to most circlips. When they are stamped, one side edge has a slightly radiused edge (where the die hits the metal sheet) and the other side has a sharper edge. Always install the sharp edge outward and it's less likely to come off if it loses tension. When installing circlips, place your thumb over the clip and only use just enough pressure on the circlip pliers to allow you to push the clip in/on the groove. Any more than that and you may distort the clip so it won't seat snugly in the groove or cause it to twist slightly and set up a "stress riser" condition on the sharp edge side that will evenutally cause it to break (probably what happened in your case). Jon

Like Pete says, a small amount of "float" is correct as it allows the disk to align in the pads when they contract. Even if the disk is a solid mount, like most rear disks, if you rock the bike forward and backward with the brake applied lightly, you will detect a small amount of movement and that is the pads moving slightly in the caliper housing. The front does the same thing. Jon

Finding half a circlip is much worse than finding a complete one (like finding half a large bug in your half-eaten sandwich). I would not ride (or start) the bike further until you find the source (and the other half of the clip). That circlip held something on or in and I'd find out what it is as that part is now trying to fall off. Start with taking off the clutch sidecover, hopefully it's one of the small circlips that hold the kickstart idler gear or centering spring and can be easily replaced. Jon

I'm sure if Clive had a minder that looks as good as the one the dogs have, he'd do much better..... Jon

For the 06', Type-F seems to work well. Jon

I think the rear is the 6004-2RS bearing and the front is 6095RS. You didn't mention what year your bike was but the front bearing you mention is for the Marzocchi type fork, with the larger OD axle than the earlier GG ones. Jon

I would imagine that much better results, at a dramatically reduced cost, would be gained by investing in a large roll of duct tape to tape your boots to the footpegs. Jon

My experience also. As long as the jetting, ignition and other normal engine conditions are within reasonable range, I've never seen any ratio related problems with 80:1 in the liquid-cooled Trials bikes. Jon

Well, cr*p. There goes my reputation.....yet again. It reminds me so much of high school...... Jon

If he still has the forks on the bike, he has to have the top tripleclamp bolt loosened, otherwise the cap will usually not loosen. If the forks are still on the bike, he will have to have both caps loose and then the forks will drop and expose the springs. I'm pretty sure he has them off the bike as it would be very difficult to take just one cap off otherwise. With the fork off, pulling and twisting on the upper tube while holding the cap with a wrench should work. He says it's a 96' JTX but the 96' JTR and 97' JTX both take 300 cc's per leg. ATF works well for riders over about 12+ stone or 5-weight fork oil if he wants them softer. Cheers. Jon

There you go, Copey, talking about my riding again..... Hop_sing, you're right, TC is a great hub of information and I'm often picking up a tidbit of new insight or technique I can use and pass on to others. Jon ps. Hop, say hi to all my PITS buddies (I was President of the San Jose PITS chapter in the 70's before the club consolidated). Copey, I'll see you at the Texas National next month.

After fully draining the forks, each side takes 300cc's of 5-weight fork oil. The 96' forks do not seem to be particular as to any certain brand, just be sure it's regular fork oil (not motor oil, for instance) and you should be fine. Jon

I've never heard of a rider go through one of Ryan's schools and not come out totally delighted with the results. I've also talked with riders years after they took his school and to a one, they all say the rewards multiply over time. Ryan has a way of helping his students develop skills and techniques they can use in unique situations. There is no doubt the man has a gift for teaching. Jon

Mike, I never (and I mean never) use petrol as a cleaning solvent, It's probably the most dangerous fluid I work with. The diesel could work and I think it also provides a coating on the parts. If I need to take off all oil/grease I use paint thinner or brake cleaner (my shop solvent tank uses a water-base cleaner). The paint thinner is easy to get and store and it's a lower flash point than gas. Petrol has heavy vapors that easily spread at floor level and, for example, one of the reasons that, by law, water heaters in garages in California have to be put up on 2 ft minumim stands. I've seen some infrared videos of fuel vapor dispersion my firefighter buddies use for training and it looks like the fog they use in the B horror movies for the night time cemetary scenes. I kept expecting a gnarly hand to rise up out of the center of the drain pan.... My guess is that since you were working on the outer part of the engine case you probably should be o.k. You may want to run some compressed air in the various drain holes and that could blow out any cuttings, although it also may lodge them in a crevice inside the case. Jon

Mike, The bearing goes on first, then the #2 washer with the wide surface area against the needle rollers. I'm pretty sure the #3 washer goes on the kickstart shaft before attaching the sidecover. The flakes will not stick to the magnet if they are aluminum. In the future, dipping the thread tool into a little grease before cutting into the hole will usually allow most of the cuttings to adhere to the grease in the grooves below the cutters and you'll have less to clean up. Jon

Crud. I see from my TC profile that my reputation is a "0". How did you guys find out? I've tried so hard to keep it a secret, have you been talking to Copey again?....... Jon

Here's what I meant.

If you don't mind not having the OEM fin inserts, you can use new rubber fuel line cut in 2-3" lengths and forced in between the fins. If you are craftsman-like and use the appropriate OD line (which you can get in black or grey for polished fins), it can look quite good. Jon

The final muffler may have slightly different mounts (the 02' has a lower tab on the muffler) but nothing that can't be easily modified to fit. The 02' airbox should fit but there are two differences: The 02' carb boot will only fit the round slide Dellorto and does not use the donut adaptor (the 03' on up boot fits the round slide Dellorto-using the donut- and the Keihin/Dellorto flat slide-with the donut removed). The 02' airbox lacks the plastic shield over the filter so in wet weather, there is the possibility that water/mud flung up by the front tire will enter the front airbox inlet by going over the engine and then being injested by the engine. Using one of the shields that covers the area below the radiator will avoid this. Jon