jse

Nope. This is a normal question for these bikes. Most had an aluminum plug near the kickstart on the sidecase, 6mm Allen socket, and it takes some time to fill the case. Its sometimes easier to lay the bike on it's side, take the clutch cover off and slowly pour the oil on the clutch pressure plate. The small 3mm buttonhead Allen screws that hold the clutch cover on will probably be stripped out, but you can use a T-15 Torx bit as an extractor (tap it in and use a little pressure on the rachet head when backing them out, like you would with a regular easyout bit) and install them back in with the Torx. The 6mm plug will also probably be stripped, use a T-45 Torx on that one. Cheers. Jon

Hi again, Michael. I sent you some e-mails and we'll get back to each other when I get back home. The aluminum plug is undoubtedly the filler plug and they get stripped out easily when an old Allen wrench, with worn down flutes is used. Take a T-45 Torx bit and tap it in the hole to use as an "Easyout" type tool. You can re-install it with the same bit. If you buy a new top filler plug, get the one for the bottom of the crankcase with the magnet in it. That way you'll have two magnets (the normal magnet-type on the bottom and a magnet at the top) to collect the normal swarf that is cast off from gears and clutches. Jon

Yea, I've found that a curiosity too. I have an 02' 280 with the Magnesium engine and sidecover and it takes 350cc's. The redesigned 03' on up sidecover takes a little more, but generally in the 400/450 range. I would think that 550cc's would result in a lot puking out the trans vent. I usually recommend 400 and change often. I like to use a level that just tops the window on the sidecover (you can see a small bubble at the top of the window) and have real good luck with the GM fluid. "i was told to ONLY use 380cc atf-f. then someone said 600 and the spec book says 400. totally confused." The "600" is for the "Edition" (early) engine and is actually a little low as 650/700cc's seems to be a better volume. ATF works well in Trials transmissions as it's design parameters are right in line with a Trals transmission. In the testing we've done, Dexron or GM AuroTrac transfercase fluid works well in the 02-05 Pros and Type-F ATF, with a little better heat tolerance works well in the newer engines with the thinner clutch spring. You could actually run any of those fluids in the transmission depending on the clutch action you want. The key is to change the trans fluid often to keep it fresh. Jon

That's neat! A good send-on to my buddies. That kid has too much time on his hands, of course, his creativity was outstanding. Thanks! Jon

http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html is a good source for downloads and I think you can download an owner's manual that will give you good info. As it's a used bike, it's safe, and best, to assume the previous owner has not done any maintenance, so you'll want to start from the front and move through the bike to the back. Check all fasteners, inspect and lube any bearing found, replace all fluids and generally check for any worn parts that will need replacing soon. An hour invested at this will save you many hours in the future. 97 octane should be fine, as well as 80:1 premix ratio. Jon

The chamber inserts have been around for some time now and have just filtered down to Trials. Very handy for a rider who wants more compression now and then, such as us flatlanders who want to ride the Ute Cup in Colorado, up at 12,000 ft+ altitude. I first saw them years ago for the 350 Yamaha Banshee Quads, a really neat invention. I've seen some research into a variable 2S compression head that uses Nitrogen pressure to vary the height of the chamber while the engine is running. It's adjustable according to how high the pressure is behind the chamber (it used a Schrader valve in the head). That way you would have high compression for low-end snap and the ratio would reduce for high-RPM, according to the Nitrogen pressure installed. High compression is a problem at high RPMs for two-strokes for a number of reasons. Jon

I'm not aware of lips for the band. You might try putting about 30 psi in the tire and that may help re-set the adhesive. When I'm not riding my bike I put 30 psi in the tires for storage. After a wet Trial, it squeezes the water from the bead/rim area and helps keep the rim band sealed tight. I've had no leakage problems in my 02' Pro in 8 years. Jon

Clive, I've ridden your Dad's Velo a couple of times, really neat bike. He told me it's a "Bit'sa", actually, cause it's made from "bits of this, and bits of that". A photo of Dad from the 1994 PITS calendar. Jon ps. Trying a different scan of photo. I think I remember your Dad saying it was a Velocette engine in a BSA frame?

Beautiful bike! Give your Dad a big wet kiss for me. Is he still riding his "bitzer"? Jon

That's what I've used for many years and it's easy to come by. I have an very old pair of Hi-Point Trials boots and the leather is still not cracked and very soft to this day. The sporting goods stores also sell an oil for softening up baseball gloves and I've had good results with that also. Jon

In the 96-97's we usually ran 650-700cc's of Dexron ATF, changed often. A full-synthetic premix oil at 80:1 works well. I run Castrol TTS in my bikes now, but also ran the Silkolene Pro-2 for several years with no problems. Jon

Sorry to miss the ride as I was in Dallas. I'll miss the event this month ( the Bay is always a really fun place to ride) as I'll be in Utah for a week and after I get back I'll be out to Florida during the next event. Just want you guys to know I haven't packed Trials in, I'm just running all over the place and I can't wait to get back to riding again. The new year should see a break in my schedule so I'll be able to make the events! Darn, after 14 years of retirement, I may have to get a job to get any rest.... I know you guys will fall down a couple of times in my honor.........thanks! Jon

I know from years of photography and working with top-level professional riders that the more advanced they are, the farther they look ahead to the next obstacle, jump or turn. Looks like you're ready for the Master Class, Charles..... Jon

Many thanks! A lot of the good stuff flies under the radar and I happen to catch it after a program or two. I'll keep watch for these programs now. I'm always looking for something with a plot as the reality shows (oxymoronic to the extreme) here are terminal boredom, but cheap to produce so the profits are high and they fill up schedules. We like "Spooks" (or "MI-5" as it's known here) as it keeps our attention every minute and is not predictable in outcome, kinda like our lives in general....... Jon.

No problem, all is forgiven.... We all know how frustrating working on bikes can be at times. Cheers. Jon

Thanks! Jon

Sarcasm being a poor way to establish a relationship aside, it would appear you have a 1997 JTX with a plastic tank rather than a 1999 model, as you stated, with an aluminum tank (which made it somewhat difficult to figure out what the problem was). In the plastic tanks, the screws go into captured nuts molded into the shell. Be very careful trying to remove them, they need strong, steady pressure to back out. If you try to remove them quickly, there is a good chance you will cause the nuts to spin and enlarge the area that surrounds them, which will then make it very difficult to get the fuel tap off. You're welcome. Jon

Glad to see some of the afternoon rider's sections. I didn't get a chance to take many photos in the morning as I was working the bottlenecks and no photos in the afternoon as I was checking. It looked like everybody was having a good time! Jon

You might be o.k. as the pawl assembly is outside the main case, so the magnet is more likely to pick up the swarf before the trans bearings do. This is a classic case of what happens when the racheting mechanism is not engaged before kicking on the lever. Jon

At 6 4, I would imagine taller bars will help a lot. I've been using a set of Hebo bars (HR30009285) for about 3+ years now and it really helps the back. Here's a comparison to the slightly taller black GG bars (some are really low):

Couple more, Pat getting his trophy, Tiffany and Charles showing good form and Randy on his immaculate Honda twin-shock:

"I didn't get many photos as I was taking care of bottlenecks and checking sections, but got a few. I can't upload them as the site upload program insists a resized 122 Kb photo file is larger than the 2MB max upload size and no amount of pleading will work (and I'm REALLY good at pleading....)" Got it sorted out now, here's a few photos. Mike Peterson made the cool over-all trophies, a compass/weather vane.

We get some really neat BBC stuff on this side of the pond, although it takes some time to swim over and is usually only run on our Public TV stations. My wife and I have recently become addicted to "MI-5", which I understand ran some time ago "over there". Since the lead time can be substancial, my question is: what good programs on the air now do you think I should be on the lookout for in the future? Jon

Hi Greg! I didn't get many photos as I was taking care of bottlenecks and checking sections, but got a few. I can't upload them as the site upload program insists a resized 122 Kb photo file is larger than the 2MB max upload size and no amount of pleading will work (and I'm REALLY good at pleading....) The bike toss was neat as usual. I had the ramp angle, approximate velocity of subject and drop to surface all figured out and, as usual, the red missle went in the opposite direction, but I'm bringing one of my computers next year.... At least I was smart enough to park well away from the bonfire this year........ Weather was perfect, good moisture in sections and everybody had a great time. The four-state CRTC events are really fun to be at. Each club goes out of it's way to make out-of-state riders feel welcome and the clubmembers always take good care of the riders and spectators. Pat Smage put on a great show for everybody. In one of my sections, and with Brad Villand's astute coaching, I think he hopped on every huge rock in the section just for fun, and came out with a clean. Jon

What you describe, Sam, sounds serious. I wouldn't run it until you find the source of the swarf. You might consider a complete engine teardown as that type of material can cause internal damage to other parts in addition to the problem part. Dexron III ATF works well in your engine. Jon