michael martin

If you are new to trials I recommend putting new gearbox fluid in it, filling up the fuel tank, finding a few other trials riders and go have fun. The bike you have is a fine machine to learn the sport. Don't worry about parts that are not broken yet. You will fall over and the bike will get scratched. Pick it up, smile and try again. When you figure out how to ride then go get a new bike.

Having serious doubts that a CR 250 reed block would even come close to fitting my Gasser I looked into the MTV305A part # given by eddyr_00 and that is not a reed block that will fit a GasGas.

I wasn't aware that V-force had a block to fit a GasGas pro. If so, Please let me know about it. They make good products.

Jon, I weigh about 165ish and have 2 1/2 turns of preload on stock spring with compression adjustment untouched on left fork. 22 clicks out on right or rebound side. Replaced stock fluid with Red Line synthetic. I will tweak around on rebound adjustments (because I can't leave it alone) but end up back at 22 clicks. I never notice the forks and for me that is a good sign. If I feel or notice them something is not right. A big improvement over the Zooks.

In moments of someones confusion I always like to be the subject of even more confusion. Haha... Very happy it helped you Jimmie. I find it best to use a top quality synthetic cartridge fluid because those forks tend to dirty the oil pretty quick.

Find a Brembo with a 10mm piston If you are looking for improvement. You can find them on ebay but make sure it has proper piston size.

I tried a complete clutch pack and it was terrible. It wouldn't pull beyond 3rd gear without slipping. Put different oil in it with no change. Put the worn stock pack back in and it works way better than new DP pack.

I can tell you a thing or two about having brake pads being pushed away from rotors. It's a sinking feeling on your roadracer when watching your brake marker disappear out of the corner of your eye with the front brake lever is against the knuckles. It's amazing how fast you can pump that lever........

Get the Raga. Forks are worth it alone. Black frame and wheels look fantastic too.

Float level is very important with the Keihin so read up on doing it proper. Floats should be parallel to FB base when float tab just touch's the needle. Not depressing the needle just touching it. Stock jetting for 300 is 45 pilot, 122 Main, JJH needle in middle position, air screw out about 11/8 turn (if float level is right) but with 250 jug might be a little different. Still should be close.

I am just a bit south of OCD but not far from it when it comes to gearbox fluid. I put a hour meter on my bike and rarely get 5 hrs on it before I feel the need to whip out the allen wrench and change the oil. I've tried synthetics, 50/50 blends, ATF, synthetic ATF everything we get in the states. My bikes have magnetic drain and filler plugs and after about 5 hrs both the magnets have about the amount of gunk no matter what oil I put in it. But, by the looks of how much gunk is on the magnets and how the oil looks when it's drained it needs to be changed.

The cases look just the same as last years on mine. New forks work bitchin'.

Ok, sending out more idea's if you need more cooling AND you want to slow it down. Order up that bitchin' oversized water pump impeller from Costa in Italy. Anodised red and everything. Bigger impeller so more drag on the crank. HaHa..... Just playing for all the serious types. Hell, I don't get that detuning business anyway. I'm always thinking of ways to make mine just leap off the ground.

No that is not normal. You shouldn't have to replace the water that much. If its been on it's side a lot or upside down in a ditch might be a factor but I don't think thats the case. Ride it for a bit and check it again and I'll bet you will be ok now.

Since you are asking for ideas..... Before you buy or fit a low compression head just try fitting the flywheel weight then ride it since you already have fitted the slow turn throttle.