I really do believe the Ramblers Association are very dangerous people. I think that they will only stop when they have got total control!!
Their next target will be cyclists ruining the countryside with their fast machines that creep up on walkers with stealth like ease and then horses that cause such a mess wherever they go.
It is about time an organisation was created to represent the rights of all forms of motorsport, whether it is two wheels or four, to confront these self opinionated, self righteous do gooders head on. Maybe then they won't think that they can ride rough shot over anybody that gets in their way, but it needs all the various motoring organisations to sit down together and decide a 'battle' plan against a common foe,rather than trying to get one over the next motorsport body as a form of oneupmanship only to brag, 'we are bigger and better than you '
I am starting my son off trial riding, he has had a couple of hours on a rented ttr90 (little yammy) to get him riding.
I have bought him a gasgas 80, he's only riden it in the garden so far (on the look out for a trailer), but it seems quite big and heavy for him, although he can touch the floor and ride around the lawn no problem.He's 10 in december and of decent height.
Should I have got him a smaller bike to start with him being a complete newb??
Also what are the rules for competeing, I think he'll be youth 'C' which I think is classed as 80cc, but no mention of wheel size?
Sorry if all this has been asked before but I have searched the net and have been finding info difficult to come by - even the smaller bikes there seems to be so many variations
Anyway I need to sort him out so dad can get one
Thanks
Admin : feel free to move to another section if i've posted in the wrong secton
Should I be wanting a Beta Evo.. Had a quick go on a mates Rev3 yesterday and quite liked it. The build quality and spec seems better than my Sherco? Just wondering what are the pros and cons of Beta ownership and which model to go for. And will I ever really get used to the left kick.
Just thinking out loud really, as I know someone else can't choose a bike for me. just a thought on other peoples experiences?
My last bike was a Sherco 250 2001 vintage. I too couldn't decide about an evo. You know , are they any good,they're italian, left hand kick start etc ( the last thing I had with a left hand kickstart was a Bultaco Pursang in 1978, avoided them like the plague ever since ).But after a bit of deliberation , I bit the bullet and bought a 2010 evo. If I couldn't get on with it, my son was having it and I would have his Sherco.
This thing is that far better than my Sherco its nearly impossible to describe.One guy at the club i'm in said, ' this thing ( his evo )is about as close to cheating as you will ever get'. It really is like riding a pushbike !!As far as the left hand kickstart goes , well it starts easier than the sherco ever did!! from cold , choke on , abit of a fairy kick and then simply turn it over and it starts first time every time !!
I can't believe the italians have got electrics that work. No doubt it will probably fail in the future, but I will cross that bridge when I get there. I have in the past replaced the stator on my sons sherco, so they aren,t really any better are they ?
Have a go on one , I think you will be pleasantly surprised. I might have lost mine now because my son loves it more than me !! So if anybody out there wants to swop a sherco 290 cabestany for a ......
standard sherco switch looks just as youve described
I had this happen on my sherco with a standard 'yamaha type' kill switch. There is a little black seal around the yellow button that breaks with age and lets water in . I changed mine for a new one (yamaha type) and it cured the problem !!
Been out on the Beta for a bit tonight, and have a small problem occur
The bike started fine then with a little speed (10mph or so) developed a timely 'tick' which makes me think it may be something on the chain
BUT
as this was going on the bike started going funny & cut out. Someone i spoke to at swaine was telling me Betas may tick when running low on fuel
as he said this the carb peeeeed fuel out of the overflow!
Now this is my first Beta, only ever had GasGas' can anyone shed any light on it?
thanks
Elliott
Could be floats and needle jet stuck if its run out of fuel and then gone onto reserve. Take the carb off , clean thoroughly with compressed air and try again.
Hi all, Well i entered my first trials today at Consett - Hownsgill Farm, well I was geared up for it,tagged along with another lad to the first section and thats where it all pear shaped lol. I learnt 2 valuable lessons here, 1, spend more time watching riders ride the section and have the bike positioned correctly lol,I did neither of these and that was that lol OFF !! twisted my left knee so that was my entry at trials, but rather than give up I followed the guys around the course and WATCHED..I managed to get an hour and a half on the bike before my knee give up and I was goosed lol. I will try again tomorrow at Rothbury.... this time watching and learning!!! Prior to today I only spend about 2 hours riding over 3 outings on the bike so Im pleased i managed the hour n a half to be honest lol.
Any further advice would be very appreciated guys.
All I would suggest is,take your time and learn at your own pace, don't be afraid to ask the observer to give you a five on a section if you don't fancy it and finally, enjoy yourself!!! It is a fantastic way to spend a weekend !!!
hi all second post today lol my mates sherco 250 2001 model devoloped a problem last night we were out doing a few sections and it was running like a dream left it standing for 10 mins to have a chat kicked it up and it wouldnt rev the next thing the exhaust was glowing red i thought it was going to change shape how hot it got. Brought it home cleaned carb took exhaust off blew it through thought that might have been blocked also took head off and clenaed all the piston put a new plug in it and it still does the same. When you rev it it just seems like its struggling and spluttering it also back fires as well any help on this i will be gratefull thanks steve....?
Could it have sheared the woodruff key therefore altering the timing ?
Honestly Neo, I kind of doubt the hoses are the problem. I would just simply flush things and put it back with some grease on the shaft and factory seals.
My friend suggested petroleum jelly because grease will rot the rubber seals
Just a thought . I have two shercos and was going back to my local trials shop for seals every 3 or 4 months to get replacements. The owner used to laugh every time I went in and say ' you must be putting them in wrong'
but the seals were actually worn out . The lip was worn on one side even when I changed the shaft!!
So I mentioned this to an Engineer friend of mine who had a look at the old seals and shaft and he suggested, when building it up , smear everything in Vaseline ( Petroleum Jelly )and to be honest I've never replaced a seal since. That must have been 18 months ago!!
I am not an Engineer by any stretch of the imagination, but I can use spanners and get by with basic maintenance. Maybe these seals should have been built up like this anyway, and all you guys do it like this as a matter of course and I might be teaching my grandmother to blow eggs. But if not, give it a try . I don't think you have anything to loose.
Jetted rich and/or too much oil in mixture and/or wrong plug heat range and/or leaky primary seal and/or retarded ignition.
Start with the obvious, does it run good? If so the jetting and ignition timing are probably OK.
Checking for correct plug is easy. Remember the plug doesn't have any effect on engine temp except when it is way too hot and can cause preignition. Other then that it's just like a thermometer.
Oil mixture is one of those mysteries of life. Some guys run 50:1 up to 100:1 I've found 100:1 with a good synthetic to be fine on my Rev3s but then I don't spend much if any time at high revs. I consider 80:1 to be conservative in a modern trials bike. Others will disagree.
Leaky primary seals or porous cases can let tranny fluid into the crank but this happens rarely.
Other oddities that can cause the plug to look too dark are plugged exhaust, sticking choke, a bad thermostat causing the fan to run constantly making the engine run too cool and high altitude operation where the bike runs too rich.
OK that's all I can come up with.
In answer to your questions, the bike starts fine and runs really well, it sounds crisp and responds to the throttle well. It has the correct spark plug in (new )and I have just changed the gearbox oil and nothing suspicious was found in the old oil to suggest any obvious problems.
Now we come to oil mixture. I am using PJ1 fully synthetic oil and mixing 65 cl per 5 litres of fuel.Now I don't know what that works out to as a percentage or what the quantity for 80:1 is, but maybe that is where my problem may be.
If somebody out there in cyber space could work out the correct quantities for me and advise I would be eternally grateful
According to the User Manual (see http://www.betamotor.com/en/support/manuals) air screw should be 1.5 turns out from fully closed (closed is fully clockwise - so 1.5 turns from that position).
Thanks for that Peter, i've also saved the user manual for future referance so I can now get any info I need .Once again thanks
I have just bought a Beta Evo 250 2010 and the plug is very black and I suspect its running rich. Does anybody know what the air screw / fuel screw settings should be ? It's a Keihin carb so I need to know how many turns out the mixture screw should be.
This is a real issue on these bikes,and other makes, but seems worse on the evo's. Hence the 2011 bike has a 'DID' style rim (made by morad who make the 2010 rims) i have had the problem and eventually got it partially fixed. The nipple heads are too big for the rim tape to sit properly< and the edge of the tape is a real pain to fit correctly into the groove in the rim. Also have a look where the rim is welded together then ground off flat-some are very poor and mean the tape sits even more badly.
There are loads of threads on here about how to 'seal' up the rim tape when you fit it.in theory it should not need sealed, but - Some use just water, some mtb tyre slime, others dry and some seal the spokes with silicone then seal the edges of the tape with a flexible bodypanel pu adhesive such as sikaflex or tigerseal (available at panel factors anywhere). Be aware the pu adhesive is a real pain to get off when dry, much worse than silicone. Some folk grind the nipples heads down a bit then seal up the rim tape. Essentailly this is just a sh!t design for a tubeless rim.
To get out for the weekend just fire a tube in it. Unless you are world class level you will not notice the way it affects the bike. This will get you away. Long term i had john lampkin fit a new rim as mine was particulary wonky at the welds. He then fitted a new rim tape using pu adhesive ( there is an art to this in itself!!). He did this FOC as the bike was relatively new and i am a long standing customer, however i am sure they will sort you out somehow. That said the wheel is now bent as it wasnt trued up and i cant true it as the sealed tape covers the nipples!! It holds air ok now, not well but passable, ie loses couple of lbs over a week at highish pressure. Bear in mind they hold better at higher pressure as the air holds the tape down on the nipples better - lower pressure ie trials conditions and the leaks are bigger!!
you will be very lucky if you ever get a the rim tape sealed 100%! I messed about with wheels in bathtubs and slowly watched air escape the nipples for ages but the worst is when you set off to section 1 and when you get there the 4lb has completely vanished, day ruined.
For the meantime just tube it then see if you can find an expert in fitting rim tapes to seal it up for you. I am considering trying to source a 2011 rim and spoke set to build up a new wheel off my hub, but with the centre adjusting spokes and different rim style this will be very pricey.
good luck, stay patient, it is a ridiculous problem to have, i had 1990's betas with the DID style rims twenty years ago when tubeless was coming about - why oh why have they gone backwards in design? well to answer my own question cost i guess.
get that tube in and make the most of the sunshine whilst its here.
Good post , but I must add. If you do put a tube in , leave the rim tape in place or it will puncture the 'belly' of the tube .
I too went to see an absolutely immaculate ( his words not mine ) 2010 250 beta, well if that was immaculate it must have been judged by stevie wonder . I have got a 2001 sherco that is in better nick !! and i am not exagerating. I wouldn't mind but the guy wanted top dollar as well . The next one I saw , was owned by an engineer that didn't know what grease is or how to use it . It looked nice but all the suspension bearings were bone dry and the swing arm bearings were knackered and have been replaced. I will get it to the standard that I want eventually , hopefully !!
Forestry Panel - act Now
in General Trials Talk
Posted
Sent
I really do believe the Ramblers Association are very dangerous people. I think that they will only stop when they have got total control!!
Their next target will be cyclists ruining the countryside with their fast machines that creep up on walkers with stealth like ease and then horses that cause such a mess wherever they go.
It is about time an organisation was created to represent the rights of all forms of motorsport, whether it is two wheels or four, to confront these self opinionated, self righteous do gooders head on. Maybe then they won't think that they can ride rough shot over anybody that gets in their way, but it needs all the various motoring organisations to sit down together and decide a 'battle' plan against a common foe,rather than trying to get one over the next motorsport body as a form of oneupmanship only to brag, 'we are bigger and better than you '
Rant Over !!
Phil