Having done some reading on here, and on YouTube, I've currently got the lever set as I've read, to get the maximum throw with a tiny amount of free play before it moves the piston.
With a tiny amount of free play, as soon as it gets hot the fluid will not move as it should. Then it slowly gets worse and worse.
There are two holes in the reservoir which the piston has to pass by Without free play the piston blocks the second hole and the fluid is stopped.
Having done some reading on here, and on YouTube, I've currently got the lever set as I've read, to get the maximum throw with a tiny amount of free play before it moves the piston.
With a tiny amount of free play, as soon as it gets hot the fluid will not move as it should. Then it slowly gets worse and worse.
No matter, just working on the carb can cause the cable to be displaced. Changing out both screws will make the whole thing a mess at the first attempt at starting. Better to leave the idle adjust screw all the way loose and then adjust. Not all aftermarket adjusters are an upgrade. Most are poor quality. Your are lucky you did not cold sieze the motor.
That was not a carb rebuild, just a little disassembly. You should be able to tell if the air filter was seated right when you remove it and the grease is on the filter and the box evenly. It would be quite costly if you suck dirt through a 2 stroke. Sounds like you are figuring it all out. Better to keep asking questions than not. Good luck.
You need to learn to start the bike. It should start in one or two kicks. The pro motor is strange. The kick start gear is only about a half moon shape. Where most are 360 degree's. I have not heard if a starter breaking in years. I had the first 300 Raga ever sold, 109 out if 109 - 400 in 2004. My son broke it in my yard. He was about 5 feet off the ground and jumped off during a crash and knocked it open and it broke upon impact. But then again he endoed off a ledge in my front yard, knocked the chain off and wrapped the chain around the front sprocket. Broke two gears in the tranny.
The Gasser is not the most robust design. We both ride Montesa's now.
Yeah, we had the same bike for two years and the clutch was always perfect. Have you tried a rebuid kit on the master cylinder yet? The finger height can make it light or heavy pull. It sounds more like the m/c are sticking or slow. Have you used the wrong fluid in the m/c ?
No riding above that point. We stay mainly in the arroyos riding solid sandstone in the canyons. This is BLM land that we have had designated a trials only area since 1978. Of course its open to the public. Hikers and mountain bikers are always amazed at how clean and beautiful we keep it.
Well, most trials bikes have no frame under the motor. They tried fiber glass/ plastic on Ossa and Yamaha. I could ruin one of those on a regular weekend without even trying.
I know of three husbands in our club that bought the wives Beta 80's. Two now ride electric bicycles and the third walks. Not everyone has the ability to ride a motorcycle.
The Beta clutch fix is marginal at best. The Beta actually needed a shim to work properly. The Jap riders had been doing that for decades. The clutch on the Pro was a mess for years. Cleaning glue from plates had nothing to do with its problems. Just so happened I was a trials dealer through those Happy Days!
The Beta Clutch Fix
in Beta
Posted
With a tiny amount of free play, as soon as it gets hot the fluid will not move as it should. Then it slowly gets worse and worse.
There are two holes in the reservoir which the piston has to pass by Without free play the piston blocks the second hole and the fluid is stopped.