alan_nc

The two coils are "off the shelf" items so it might be easier to start there. Look up the part number of the cdi and see if you can find other bikes that used the same unit. I have never been able to find the specs on a Yamaha cdi unit so they are difficult to substitute. Ebay may be your best bet.

Here is the most complete listing I have ever seen. http://www.yamahaty.com/english/serieen.html

Having gone through this problem. I bought a TY175 with no tank - and if you have watched Ebay you know the 175 tank must be made of gold. The TY250 tank doesn't really come close to fitting (I tried). The TY80 tank does fit fairly well but, just my opinion, it looks silly. I ended up putting a DT tank on the bike. Slightly different shape but a perfect fit.

A big thank you to everyone who came out. Beautiful day on a great course. I think we all had fun (and got to stretch our skills a bit). Looking forward to seeing everyone in Danville, VA on May 1, 2011 Flier is on the CVOTC web site.

CVOTC is hosting a Trial in Lawrenceville, VA on Sunday April 3, 2011 Our Web Site crashed yesterday so email me if you would like a flyer with directions and further information. Hope this works:FLIER: ab400@hotmail.com Thanks Alan

Start by picking up a copy of the "Rupert Ratio". Once you have read that you will have a much better idea of how to go about the project.

Steve, Don't really know how the original coil wire is connected....but my worry would be that it may have been replaced with a unit that you can't twist. I would suggest just replacing the whole unit. They are usually under $10 on Ebay for a brand new one. just my .02

Phil, The 70ies TY250 had an optional 'long haul' seat. Looks like a standard Enduro seat. Might be a thought - don't know if it was an option for your mono.

Well I've got a garage full of Bantams. One is a full on Trials Bike. I know you said you wanted a British bike but I would have to vote for a TY175. Once set up you shouldn't ever have to work on it. Price would be less than a Cub, parts are available, very easy to work on and a good Trial or Trail bike when complete. just my .02

April 3 ..............................Lawrenceville May 1 .................................Danville June 19 ...............................Axton July 24 ................................Danville Sept 11 ................................Axton Oct 1 ...................................Morganton Oct 2 ...................................Morganton Oct 16 .................................Bunn Oct 30 .................................Lawrenceville More details can be found here: http://www.cvotc.org/joomla/ Email me if you have any questions or comments: ab400@hotmail.com

They are on Ebay all the time - I think I paid $10.00 for mine, surely under $25.00 even now. It's a very standard bike flywheel puller.

Just plug in your information in the tabs at the top of the page. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/myyamaha/prompt/L3Nwb3J0L3BhcnRzL2hvbWUuYXNweA==/Parts%20Catalog/starthere.aspx

Here is a link to see if the part numbers are the same. I have done the exact same swap. Don't really know if they are exact swap but they do fit. I think the 175 shocks have a softer spring rate but someone else will have to fill that information in.

Ride it for a time the way it is. Once you have gained some skill you may or may not want to change the gearing. Unless you are quite tall or heavy you will probably find the bike to work well. The stock TY175 is one of the most ridden bikes in Vintage Trials. Welcome aboard, enjoy.....

Well reading #4 in one of the above post: One foot down on both sides of the bike at the same time. AHRMA (and I think others)count this as an automatic 5 for that section.

Couple of thoughts: If you still have the original packing in the muffler it is so gummed up your bike hasn't been running correctly for quite some time. Once removed ride it for a time before you change anything. If you remove the oil pump make sure you block off the holes completely or you will create an air leak. As with the muffler I would ride the bike for a time prior to changing anything. My guess is that you will find you will not need to change anything.

We actually had a case this past year where three riders (all Novices)left after riding 7 of a 9 section loop. They told the Trials Master that they didn't come here to get hurt, packed up their bikes and left. I rode in that Trial and there were two sections that I took an automatic 5. Little late after that to consider making the sections safer.

Sting32, I guess that is one of the reasons I posted my previous message. I would be very surprised if anyone could ride the Novice line on anything but a Trials bike. Most Enduro bikes (even if ridden with steering at full lock) could not negotiate the line. Also our 'set up' guys like to throw in a 'pucker' factor. Some feature that isn't really that difficult but an error will get you into real trouble. I think all of this is fine in Intermediate and up but as I mentioned I would leave Novice as a true entry level class. Just my .02

Sting32, I agree except: There is another thread going about the decreasing number of riders. I really think you need to treat the Novice line differently than the other lines. The Novice riders, for the most part, have not been practicing every day. There is a good chance they have never ridden a Trial before. First and formost you want this group to come back. Second you want them to practice and think about moving up to a more challenging line. Third you must be concerned about Novice safety. Yes they are going to fall of their bikes, but you can make it so that they aren't in danger of falling from some height onto a pile of rocks or down a steep embankment. No...not everyone is going to get a trophy - you still only give one 1st place Novice. Someone is going to have to show at least slightly more skill than the others.

Jon has pretty well covered it. Always: What happened between the time it "started 1st, 2nd kick", and "won't start". You said compression "seems" fine - what is it actually? The wrong piston or ring put in by the P.O. could be leaving to much clearance. Take the carb off, squirt some gas directly into the cylinder - the bike should start and run for a few seconds. If it does you have a carb problem....If it doesn't you probably have a compression or timing problem. HTH Alan

Check for the A crank or case number here and then check the other years. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx

This link should give you a link to a drawing of the seal assembly. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx Couldn't get it to go to the specific page. Just click on the three blocks at the top and fill in your bikes information. There will be a menu on the left, about the third item down is the crank. Shows a good picture. HTH Alan

Not sure what your questions is - the hub is not Magnesium. Alan

If you have removed the clutch pressure plate. The old rod should push out very easy with the new longer rod. If it doesn't push out with light pressure you have some other problem. Once the old rod is out I think you will need the ball bearing to make the rod the correct length (a steering head bearing should be the same size). Alan

Well you do need to plug the lines or you will be sucking air into the carb. Alan