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craig10

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Posts posted by craig10
 
 
  1. Wfo's method of tensioning is the way I normally do it as well.

    Chappo, try chapping down on the rod from the top after removing nut 11, sometimes that will break the lock of the wedges. The locknut doesn't need to be rived up, that's how the wedges jam as they damage the surface of the rod. I don't know the torque setting but lightly nipped up is fine.

    Craig

  2. The wedges are in a hollow in the casing, parts 10 (2 off) below the nut 11 with the 14mm head.

    You slacken nut 11 which releases the wedges 10, the spring 5 pushes lever 4 up, forcing rod the rod 6 up. This rod is attached to the bottom of the movable blade 3 which bows out (the top being fixed) so tensioning the chain.

    Once tensioned, the nut 11 is nipped up, this causes the wedges to grip the rod and hold it. It may be that the wedges are missing or not fitted properly, the angled faces should face each other.

    If you need parts diagrams, go here http://www.serviceho...om/parts/lookup then navigate your way to Honda models of 1986, scroll down and you'll find the TLR200 there.

    Craig

    hondacamchain_zps33f4cab9.gif

  3. I had an early 01 which had an iron liner, Birks told me only those early models had the liners so I'd imagine an 06 would be Nikasil plated. If it needs plated I've heard Langcourt are good.

  4. With the spacer under the barrel it's probably got an xl185/xr200 crank fitted which would boost it to 145cc on the standard 124cc cylinder.

    As dalfetta says, that's a head code from the cb/XL models 76-78.

    Where's the 220 mark? A picture would help.

    Craig

  5. I skimmed my mate's one down from the standard 117mm od 2.124kg to 100mm od 1.68kg, so that's just short of half a kilo or 1lb but can't say I noticed much difference, although I'm not what you'd call 'gifted'!

    How much did you take off? I think Birks recommends 1kg but don't quote me on that.

    Couple of 'after' photos, iirc the unmachined weight starts just at the bottom of the radius on the magnet rotor but I cant find any 'before' pics.

    flywheel006_zps617689a9.jpg

    flywheel001_zps650d5fd8.jpg

  6. An experienced worker at a local engineering firm offered to size the small end bushes on a pair of Guzzi conrods for me using a honing machine. He didn't rate trying to do it with a reamer due to the difficulties in keeping it square without making a Rupert Ratio style tool.

    He also said if the fit is right the pin should slowly fall through under its own weight. If it drops through like a stone there's too much clearance.

  7. Saw a Gollner TLR up at Alvie a few years ago, think the lad's name was Gordon from NE Scotland somewhere. He used to be a regular poster on these forums but not seen his name around lately.

    I expect Big John will know who I mean.

  8. It looks like someone has cut the cable where the wires come from the harness to the thermoswitch. Normally the wire ends coming from the harness would then be joined to make the fan run constantly.

    The thermoswitch is just a switch like a lightswitch in a house, it opens and closes at preset temperatures to stop and start the fan.

  9. Surely it has road gearing ???

    I suspect the internal ratios are all the same on these motors although I haven't had a look in either one myself.

    Maybe the TTR engines have their own gear sets, a quick look at the online parts fiches might answer that.

 
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